Dirty filthy backpacker


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Asia » China » Shanxi » Datong
September 5th 2007
Published: September 18th 2007
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Hanging MonasteryHanging MonasteryHanging Monastery

A monastery built on the side of a cliff.
I took the overnight train from Beijing to Datong to see the Hanging Monastery and Yungang Caves there. Datong is really just one big industrial town. It is the source of a big portion of China's coal and the city certain smells like it. The odor of coal permeates the air here. When I blew my nose and took a look at what came out, there were black specks of coal dust. I wonder what the life expectancy is for the people who live here. Unfortunately, Datong is more of a norm than an exception. Things like air quality and environment take a backseat to economic development.

With the exception of a handful of historical sites, there is not much to do or see in Datong. I chose to take the train out of town on the same day that I got there. Train rides are pretty boring, so if possible I try to book sleeper trains and sleep through it. There are actually quite a few benefits to this. I do not have to spend money on a place to stay. Sleeper trains seem to run everynight between major cities and the tickets are relatively inexpensive. However, my hygiene
Hanging MonasteryHanging MonasteryHanging Monastery

I wonder how this place was built.
has suffered from doing back to back train trips. Having gone days without a shower, all I can really do is try to "freshen up" as much as possible in the bathroom at the train station. I'll leave that to your imagination as to what that means (It involves a rag. Being limited to carrying everything needed for an extended period of time means limiting the amount of clothing one brings as well. Sometimes I’ll wear the same thing for several days. I’ve yet to see a laundromat in China so I’ve been washing my clothes in the bathroom sink when I can. This is less than ideal. My standard for clothing has dropped from “fresh smelling clean” to “clean enough”. I guess it is for reasons like these that backpackers have a reputation for being a bit filthy.

Although Datong is a dump, I did enjoy its tourist sights. The Hanging Monastery is built on the side of a cliff to avoid floodwaters. In person it was actually smaller and not as high as I imagined it would be. However, it is still quite impressive. Looking down made me feel a bit dizzy since the monastery was still
Inside Hanging MonasteryInside Hanging MonasteryInside Hanging Monastery

Don't look down if you have a fear of heights.
high up enough to be scary. Parts of the walkway were quite narrow and the steps worn smooth from the sheer number of tourist who visit the monastery. A slip or a shove from a careless tourist would mean a fall, and falling down would surely mean a quick death. On the same day, I visited the Yungang Caves. I've never seen so many Buddhist carvings in one place before. Some of the caves told a story, other were impressive because of the sheer number of carvings. Spending several hours there was just the right amount of time. Not being much of an art buff or history buff, I think I would have been bored if I had stayed longer.



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Maguo CavesMaguo Caves
Maguo Caves

Many carvings of Buddas in each cave carved into the side of the mountain.
Buddha Carving at MaguoBuddha Carving at Maguo
Buddha Carving at Maguo

One of the bigger buddha carvings undamaged by water
Old BuildingsOld Buildings
Old Buildings

Some old buildings at the Maguo Caves site.
Hard Sleeper on Chinese TrainHard Sleeper on Chinese Train
Hard Sleeper on Chinese Train

Believe it or not, this is second only the soft sleeper. I'm traveling in luxury.


3rd October 2007

nice temple. but where are the bitches??

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