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Published: September 4th 2007
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Flags Welcome Visitors
Japan helped pay for this sign? Driving into Lean had me in the navigation seat and suddenly we were too far from where we were going. Calles go east west and Avenidas run north south. The city divided into quarters. All very confusing when it’s written in Spanish and the map is not to scale. Not making excuses … much. A taxi driver was consulted. Finally he was asked to lead us to the hostel. It The first hostel was not appropriate … only Karen went in to see the conditions.
With the taxi driver we arrived at Bigfoot and across the street was ViaVia, Leon. I had decided, when I read the name in the guidebook, that it was the place I was going to stay at and when arriving in Leon had my heart set on ViaVia . So as everyone went into Bigfoot I went into ViaVia and reserved the room ... the only that was left.
Because there was a double bed and a single bed in the room I went to Bigfoot and invited Paul and Minnie to come and stay at ViaVia. They agreed and we spent two comfortable nights in Leon with a clean shower, pleasant patio and convenient
The Church in the Main Square, Leon
In the evening there was still some festivities happening. The main activity had been at 18:00 ...noise smoke, shrieking access to banks, grocery stores and city square with a church and fiesta activity.
In the ViaVia is situated a couple who rent bicycles, organize cooking lessons with a local family and make the experience of ‘cock fighting’ available for those who are so inclined.
I chose to go to the cooking lesson. With three other woman and Macha we went to the local market to buy the ingredients for Indio Viejo a most intriguing soup/stew. I promised myself to remember the recipe but of course there only a partial list remains in my brain. Will have to contact Macha and ask her for a complete list ...it is a soup worth making many times. We went by public conveyance and then walked to Anita’s house. In the yard, Elvis, a fighting cock, strutted about. According to the family he also sings every morning … the same song!
After much chopping of vegetables, some boiling of meat and squishing by hand of the cornmeal paste, Anita cooked while we all watched. The delicious stew took shape in the big pot on the open fire. Part of the ‘lesson’ involved going down the street to another house
Market Mehem
For the cooking class Macha had sources for a good supply of vegetables and meat. where the ladies were making tortillas. Once the soup/stew was properly finished we all sat down outside and enjoyed bowls of Indio Viejo.
According to Macha, families don’t sit down together as a gathered group to eat but eat as they are hungry. This is not what I noticed at Cecilia’s in El Salvador, where every night she had a full group at table.
Besides finding most of the churches closed because of going to visit them at too late an hour, I found great satisfaction in visiting the Ruben Darios museum where his life’s work and house could be admired. Ruben Darios is a famous poet much revered in Nicaragua. He was an ambassador to France and a great influence on the progress of Nicaragua.
The other exciting thing to partake of in Leon is the amazing collection at the Art Gallery. The paintings within are well displayed, original, dramatic and pleasurable to the eye. It is a welcomed surprise to come upon this contemporary display.
During the two nights at Leon massive numbers of firecrackers were set alight and the mornings and nights were filled with the loud gunshot like rapports. To incessant drumming
Turtle Contraband
We hear so much about saving the turtles and have volunteers out at night saving the eggs and in markets the eggs are blatantly sold. huge papier mache figures floated about the streets. Food vendors filled the square in front of the main church until late at night. Firefighters and ambulance attendants were on guard in case of emergency. There were a few injuries becasue of ill use of firecrackers.
While walking about, the classic structures, refurbished houses and generously decorated churches were admired, photographed and compared to others previously seen.
Never did see the university which makes Leon an intellectual capitol.
The liberal home of revolutionaries was exited.
Granada was anticipated.
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Macha
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El Indio Viejo
Hi Barbara! The ingredients.... posta chiltoma tomatoes plantains cebolla (remember what that was?) massa of tortilla (or a couple old tortillas, blended) chayote salt to taste enjoy! greetings Macha