Discovering Discovery Sound

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After the rain and wind in Johnstone Strait, we were hoping for better from Toba Inlet and Desolation Sound. We would have to wait. We woke to overcast skies and occasional rain. We packed up to catch the ferry to Cortes Island, via Quadra Island. We were not sure what time the ferries ran, but it worked out anyway, as the ferry was just getting ready to load cars. The Campbell River to Quadra ferry ran once an hour, a short ten-minute journey, while the Quadra to Cortes ferry ran every two hours, taking 45 minutes. Luck must have been shinning on us, as the second ferry was waiting for the convoy of cars transitioning from our ferry to the next. A few minutes later, and we were aboard for the longer ride to our destination. Another group of kayakers accompanied us, though all were with a tour group. We did follow them to Squirrel Cove, the launching point for trips to Desolation Sound Marine Park. After one trip, you get pretty good at packing up and hitting the water, so we beat them to it by a wide margin. Our plan was to circle East Redonda Island, with a side trip to Toba Inlet. The mileage tally would be over 50, making this our longest kayak journey to date.

Overcast skies greeted us as we left the cove, planning on a four mile trip to Sarah Point. Sara had latched onto this as the first destination, owing to the similarity in name, though there wasn’t much to recommend it. We did see hundreds of starfish that the tide and left high and dry. We stopped for lunch, which led to our first and hopefully only lost item of the trip, the better of our two pocketknives.

After lunch, another five miles of paddling would get us to our campsite, but not without a fight. Fortunately, this was a fight we could win. Soon after lunch, we ran into another group of kayakers, and they were headed for the same camping area as us. Though there were three campsites there, Sara was taking no chances. Her competitive instinct kicked in, and we got to camp well before them. It wasn’t really fair, as it was a guide leading what were most likely novice kayakers, but we felt gratified nonetheless. Our campsite was a beautiful group of three islands that, at low tide, exposed rock ledges for landing on. In additional to the tidal current, the tides that cause them can cause problems at camp. As the tides rise, your boats can rise with them, and float right away. To top it off, the tidal fluctuation can be up to 20 feet, so you’re never quite sure that the boats are safe. In summation, our beautiful exposed rock ledges became a real pain for hauling the kayaks above high tide. The night, like the others before it, was gray with light rains but pleasant enough. We even saw a new bird, the Red Crossbill, with its distinctive feature, which I’m sure you can guess.

The scenery changes but, so far, not the weather. Today would be our longest day to date with gear, over thirteen miles, so we needed an early start. The morning went quickly, and the scenery, with snow capped mountains occasional breaking through the clouds, was the best of the trip to date. After a few miles, we spotted what we though was an island of birds. As we paddled a little closer, Sara, through her binoculars, spotted dozens of seals beached on the rock. While we continued on, the seals suddenly all dove into the water. We worried that we might have spooked them. Paddling on, we noticed a few heads bobbing in the water behind us. Then a few more. And more. By the time we reached the next channel, we had a flotilla of three or four dozen seals following us, some close by, other lagging behind. Whether just curious or defending their territory, we don’t know. Regardless, we could have done without the close encounter.

As the day wore on, the scenery lost its hold on us, as we tired further. While paddling isn’t that taxing, you just don’t use your arms enough in the average day to gain much physical endurance. Both of us tired toward the end, and the last stretch lasted, especially as the logging camps took over our view. By the time we entered Attwood Bay, our camp for the night, we could hear the chainsaws at work. The were at a respectful distance, but I doubt that had much to do with our presence. While there was some evidence of bears, we didn’t see any and hoped not to, as we were now camped on the mainland, where the black bears are joined by grizzlies.

The plan for the next day had been a long paddle into Toba Inlet, notorious for its harsh afternoon winds. We woke early to calm water and, finally, blue skies! A day to dry out. A day to enjoy the sun. And, we decided, a day to relax. The scenery in Toba Inlet was the best so far, and it along with the sun conspired to make us lazy. For good reason, too, as our vacation had predictably become a form of work. After a short five miles, we reached the first campsite in the inlet, pulled ashore, and enjoyed the weather for the rest of the day. That’s pretty much all that happened. Just the basics: sun, food, and sleep, appropriately mixed.

The relaxation carried over to the next day, but by around noon we were ready to do something. This was a mistake. We decided to kayak up to the next bend in the inlet and see what was around the corner. It was a little over three miles, and the trip there was uneventful. But it was already well into the afternoon, and time for Toba to show what it had. The waves were three or four feet high and the winds probably exceeded 20 miles per hour. I was enjoying playing in the waves, until one decided to slip through my spray skirt. Sara wasn’t, so we headed to the shore and waited for the winds to calm. After an hour or two, we decided to give it another try, and though still slightly strong, the waves were manageable and lessened as we continued on. Soon, there was no sign of wind and the paddling was pleasant and relaxed. Just for a little excitement, Sara decided to try and paddle through a large waterfall, but the force of the water makes it pretty much impossible. I tried as well, with the same success, but the spray was enjoyable, and washed a bit of the salt spray off our faces. We arrived as the last rays of light were leaving our campsite and enjoyed our dinner on the beach watching the sunset.

After our two relaxing days, or one plus one gone bad, we had another long day of paddling. The winds turned out to be quite unpredictable, as Toba Inlet was quite, but our crossing of Pryce Passage was windy and choppy. I had decided to forgo the spray skirt, so I had to play the “avoid the wave” game to prevent the camera from getting soaked. As we finished the crossing, we entered the narrow portion of Waddington Channel. We were not sure how strong the current were here, but were lucky enough to have them moving in our favor. While we were trying to determine this, a large bird flew overhead. We both though it was a bald eagle, which by this point had become commonplace, and paid little attention, until I looked up and saw a large bill and white belly. Our first albatross! We are going with a Laysan Albatross, since we know that it has an all white belly, and the fact that there are only a few hundred Short-tailed Albatross in the world. But the Sibley Guide actually let us down here, not having a belly view of the Short-tailed, and our kayaking guide book did say to be on the lookout for the Short-tailed, so we’re not quite sure yet.

The remaining trip was pleasant, but we were glad to arrive at our campsite in Roscoe Bay Marine Park. For the first time this trip, we would have neighbors that were neither furry nor feathered. This area is very popular for pleasure boaters, and dozens of sailboats and motorboats were anchored in the bay. We searched around and found the campsite described in the guidebook, but apparently the trail to the nearby lake runs right through our camp. We had many pleasant visitors, and it was nice to share experiences. Once dinner arrived, the visitors returned to the less refined, with a toad trying to burrow beneath our tent. He quickly lost interest, and we drifted off to sleep.

By day six, fresh thoughts creep into your mind. Fresh food, fresh clothes, and, most importantly, freshening up. We still had a long way to go to that, but it pushed us to an early wake up call. The usual conditions, with some calm water and some rough, but we nothing but sun in the sky. We were trying to get back in time for the 11:05 ferry, but didn’t get back until 10:30. While we rushed to load the kayaks, we realized we were never make it. Of course, checking the actual schedule helps, so we might make the 11:50 ferry after all. When we got there, the ferry had not yet arrived, but there were already 13 cars in line and we were car two on the outside looking in. I guess people were not really parking that close to one other, as we made it with room to spare, and I took the time to work on the previously posted journals. The next ferry was just as easy, and we were back on Vancouver Island in no time.

We headed for our least favorite campground, the Thunderbird, where we had twice waited lengthy waits for the owners to arrive, giving up the first time and being turned back the second. At least they let us take a shower the first time, but not now, as we didn’t want to stay there since we were headed to Tofino on the west coast. That, and we didn’t like the time we had wasted there. So we went grocery shopping and stole some internet to find the closest Mexican restaurant for my birthday, a day early. Since it was almost an hour away, we decided to say goodbye to Campbell River and get on our way. We arrived in Courtenay, and found Tita’s Restaurant, a lively, brightly colored building with a great looking menu. We had over an hour until they opened, but one of the employees driving into work took pity on us and invited us in early for chips, salsa, and water. Civilization! Once the food arrived, I can definitely recommend Tita’s on all counts.

After dinner, both of us were feeling a little stuffed, but decided to press on toward Tofino. After two hours or so, we were both spent, but late on Saturday night is no time to look for lodging. We found a campground tucked back well off the road, and they had a few spaces left. The shower felt great, but the wedding held at the same time was not a good thing. But that’s why we have earplugs in the first aid kit. It felt like an emergency!

For the first time in several days, we woke to cloudy skies. Not an auspicious birthday start, but I’m not superstitious and since like most holidays, it had been observed on another day, it was fine. However, our arrival in Tofino was less promising, as the forecast that had called for light winds was now predicting gale force winds for the next morning and strong winds for today. That, combined with the warnings of strong current during flood tides conspired to give us a day off on my birthday. Normally this would be welcomed, but a $35 campsite with pay showers for the cheapest campground isn’t what I would choose. Plus, I finally can catch up on the journal! A nap and a walk on the beach later, and we’re ready for whatever we might face tomorrow, even if it means a direct trip back down the island, to start Part II of the trip, Banff. But the plan is to kayak to Vargas Island, then Blenden Island, and finally Cleland Island, a bird reserve off the coast. Until then!

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Comments

[Bernadette Thomasy]

Wow, an Albatross
Hello Matt and Sara, Dad and I are enjoying the travelblogs. I am impressed with the albatross sighting, no matter what kind it was. You are really getting a workout with the paddling. Glad to hear you took a day and a half to rest. We hope the skies are sunnier in Banff. Enjoy the mountains and continue to stay safe. Love, Mom and Dad