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Published: June 10th 2007
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Leaving Dahab.
It wasn't easy, having spent more time then I allotted for, and especially after a failed attempt to extend it by a day, cutting off one day in Luxor. During the lazy days of Dahab I toyed with the idea of just skipping Luxor all together, avoiding the heat, and the crowds of packaged tourist. My logic was, the ruins have been there for a few thousands years, probably not going to go anywhere in my life time, unlike the Red Sea and it's coral and aquatic life. I had received mixed reviews on Luxor. Hot. Touristy. Hot. Tons of street hustlers, but figured to come all the way to Egypt and not pay it a couple of days visit wouldn't be wise. I figured I'd kick myself in the end. As far as extending Dahab by another day, the plane was booked out, so I guess Allah wanted me out of Dahab, into the scorching heat of Luxor, battling the touts (hustlers) at every turn.
Dahab was hands down the Bee's Knees; one of the coolest, laid back places I have been, rivaling parts of Thailand. I had stayed at the hotel long enough and done enough diving that I had become one of them (well almost); I was still on holiday, and I was still flipping bills. But on numerous occasions went out to their homes, enjoyed tea, or even an Egyptian sponsored trip to a restaurant. I tried my hardest to pay for at least my portion of the meal, but they'd have nothing to do with it. Very gracious people, and extremely genuine, which in some parts of this world can be hard to find.
The one guy that I became really tight with was Nash, one of the dive masters at the center. He was in a unique situation at the Penguin (hotel), because the owner (after working there for years) had asked him to marry his daughter. Arranged marriage is still very common in the Muslim (and Christian/egyptian) world. Marriage seems to be more for family and less about love. Procreating, if you will, seems to be the major concern. The other thing that struck me about the situation that Nash was in, was that the owner (future father in law) was his father's cousin. So we have both arranged marriage as well as marriage within a family. I didn't press this, or ask too many questions, as I didn't want to have my Western views and curiosities' come off as insulting and arrogant.
One thing that I noticed from the beginning, while in Dahab was that women didn't work. Actually, women (non Western) weren't seen at all. All the stores, markets, vendors, and hotel staff - you name it, run by men. I talked about this with other travelers; some had noticed, others didn't even think about it.
As a westerner and non Muslim there is a lot about this culture that still baffles me at times. First thing is homosexuality and sexuality in general. Homosexuality is completely taboo (like pretty much all Muslim cultures), and punishable with an extended stay in an all male prison. Ironic, yes.
What strikes me as odd is not that they're so afraid of homosexuals, but how "gay" they actually are. I mean nothing wrong with same sex relations, but to condemn one for it, while it’s a cultural norm for two men to hold hands as they stroll through the streets of Cairo, ending the evening with a kiss. I was told (from many reliable egyptian sources) that if there is some man on man action, its not considered homosexual, if you are the one playing the role of the "pitcher." It just seems that there are many contradictions in the culture, not to say that the West is perfect by any means.
In addition to men being so close to each I was struck at how odd the relationship between men and women are. Groups of male teenagers hanging out, no girls, and vice versa for the young females. As MTV continues to get fed to them, I wonder how long the old school mentality can go on for. I met many young people who have to lead a double life in ways. One life for the family as a good Muslim (or Christian) the other as a "normal" curious teenager, trying to figure life out. A life that is much different then the one's their parents grew up in.
In Dahab I met a ton of great people, ranging from all over the world. There was Paul, a freelance French photographer. One night he told me a gripping story about loosing his best friend in the Tsunami. They were there during Xmas 2004. Paul and his girlfriend at the time couldn't afford the holiday beach bungalow that his friend wanted to stay in for their (paul's friend and girlfriend) last evening in thailand. Paul tried the place next to it, which was full and a local recommended a place UP THE HILL, about half mile. He saw his friend for the last time early in the AM, about 4 hours before it hit. Equally horrific were the verbal descriptions of death that the next four days brought. He told me this story after asking about my tattoo on my inner forearm. Death and lose were the only connection (for that particular conversation), but that was enough.
Then there was Norway Roy, who was now studying in Cairo, after working for the UN for 4 years. He spent the last years or months of the job guarding the cell block that housed everyone's favorite Yugoslavian, Slobodan Milosevic, in the Hauge.
Then there was Asha, who worked as a customs/DEA agent at the Amsterdam airport. She dealt mostly with cocaine trafficking from South America.
I also ran into Military Shane, who is actually a very cool guy. We had some great talks, and when it all came to an end, I gave him a book, and am curious to hear his thoughts.
Then there was Robyn from Texas, 22 years old, teaching English in Cairo. She was a good reminder why I am afraid of Texas as a whole, although I have yet to visit Austin which I hear is great...
As for my working abroad thing goes. I did some more time lapse video for the web designer. He still wanted to pay me, but we settled on a free web site when I return to LA. His work was very good, so I feel we both made out in the end. The videos also got me discounts here and there, and somewhat of a local Caleb status, which by Dahab standards is nothing, but then again, I didn't hear any mention of Paris Hilton while I was there, so I guess I out ranked here, in Dahab; or at least at the Penguin village hotel.
Got into Luxor the other day. I am going to save that entry for tomorrow. It's going to be a real bitch fest, trust me. This much heat and the smallest of things can set you off.
I did get yet another photo with a Ronald McDonald statue in Luxor. Now I have Bangkok, Bali, Kuala Lumpur, and hoping to add Cairo to the list.
-dylan
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Leah
non-member comment
the real deal
can you buy me some real Kohl for my eyes? ill let you drive my boat.