On the Road from Prince Rupert to Lake Louise


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May 27th 2007
Published: May 27th 2007
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Wharf at Pr. RupertWharf at Pr. RupertWharf at Pr. Rupert

The small huddle of boats and the well defined houses on the hill were a welcome site.
Prince Rupert to Lake Louise

Coming out of Alaska after Ketchikan was another long ferry ride with similar views and one small black dot that was supposedly a whale. Even the people with binoculars did not see much more.

The Road from Prince Rupert to Prince George was again a continuation of wooded hills and snow capped peaks, BUT they were Canadian and therefore more beautiful to my eyes. It is the combination of sky, snow green Sitka spruce, spring green aspen and rushing Fraser River that made the whole spectacular.

In 1972 the Fraser River flooded. This year the spring runoff is reaching record heights again. As we drove we noticed the river waters were so high that some trees and shrubs seemed to be growing out of the water. In some places fields were covered in feet of water, Now the news is warning people in Prince George, Smithers and Hope. These are laces we have passed thru. The lower Fraser should be swelling to exceeding the shores by the weekend.

We made two wild camping stops. One outside Prince George and one close to Banff. The one close to Banff was on a access road to a n area that had been clear-cut and exposed down to the sand. Some of the trees had been burnt and others had been left in a great pyre shaped mound ready for the match.

We built a fire on the sand and pitched our tents on the road. At the end of the road was a rest station with hot water and flush toilets. All this stood in the shadow of Mount Terry Fox. In the morning after being rained upon we ate a wet breakfast of fried eggs and soggy toast.

The scenery continued to be spectacular: white mountain peak, variations in green along the hillsides, roiling turquoise waters, and steep curved grey asphalt highway.

We arrived in Jasper early and had some time to do laundry, phone home, get a coffee and muffin at the famous Bear Paw Bakery, go shopping for shoe laces and hit the internet.

While in Jasper we camped at Whistler Campground, about 3k from the town and 4k from the Tramway. The Tramway starts operating at 9:30 in the morning, costs $24 and goes up over 2000ft with just one tower keeping the cables taut. The Tramway was built 43 years ago. The parts come from Germany … Saarbruecken to be exact. The cables were replaced a few years ago. At the top snow still lay on the deck surrounding the Treeline Restaurant . Here a hamburger can be eaten for $10.95. Coffee is $2 and no refills.

I had left camp early and began to walk to the Tramway. Once the road ascended I stuck out my thumb. A couple from Red Deer stopped and gave me a ride. Later I paid $3 for a shuttle ride back to the city. After a cappuccino, and some WiFi time it was back on the truck and on the way to Lake Louise.

We stopped at Lake Louise Mall to get info about bus travel for Jill who is returning to England. From the Mall, Lake Louise was 45 min away to the lake and a ½ km to the camp site.


The night was spent at a campsite inside an electrified fence. On the way to the showers a grizzly with two cubs was seen outside/inside the electric fence. We all watched until it became dark.

The bear count has reached over 20 since the beginning of the trip. This is very exciting for those people who do not have black bears peeking thru French doors or munching on blueberries in the backyard. I am waiting to spot a cougar… no more lynx… we are too far south. I have seen a coyote tail disappear into the forest along the road.

The morning wakeup was early so that the 7:00 bus could be met by four of our group. I went with the truck so that I could have a leisurely breakfast buffet with newspaper and real coffee from a real cup.

Two hours later others from the group began to arrive at the famous view. We all took pictures of one another.

And then it was back on the truck for the drive to Banff.

Lake Louise has changed since the last time I was there almost 15 years ago. A new addition with underground parking has been added. It may be my imagination but it looks like the old part of the chateau seems to have been refaced to match the new wing. Inside the building there are many shops to appeal to the travellers who buy diamond jewellery and chinchilla scarves as souvenirs. . The service staff upstairs wears tiroller outfits including ¾ length pants, suspenders and little brimmed hats. The Poppy restaurant mirrors the flowers growing outside, is decorated with folk-art flowers and borders and is attempting to reflect a European ambiance… does not achieve it! The big yellow mugs used to serve breakfast coffee totally destroy the effect.

Around the area of the Chateau there has been a definite increase in parking lots. Also a company named Brewster seems to have bought up everything from Columbian Ice field access to touring buses . All the Chateaux built by Canadian National Railroad from Quebec to Toronto to Lake Louise Have been bought by Fairmont…. Probably Montreal, Ottawa and Victoria too. The Banff Chateau has Fairmont attached to its name. So much for keeping Canada for Canadians.

Every town we have driven thru seems to have a Safeway and a Wal-Mart. I’m sure they are there even when I don’t see them from our route!

Rest stops continue to come just in time so that I have not yet had to use the pail at the back of the truck.
Lunches are store bought stuff consisting of crackers, cheese dip, bananas, cold cut meat, Yoplait, kefir, orange juice, and other nice stuff like ready made salads granola bars.

Being on cooking group is still messy because of the soot that covers all of the pot and kettle handles. Laundry is always necessary after cooking dinner in the evening and then breakfast the next day.


The shots of the road and mountains are happily dated. Otherwise I could use the same curve in the road, the same peak and the same flowing water for each segment of this trip so far.

The days at Dawson, Skagway, Jasper and Lake Louise were eventful and it gives me pleasure to write about something besides sitting on the truck, watching the scenery flash by and having only the people on the truck to speak with.

Banff and Vancouver are in the distance. More truck time to look forward to. It is understandable that the truck has to drive down the road. It is easier to take when there is at least two sleeps in between.

Two sleeps in Banff and THREE in Vancouver have been promised. Yupp
Deep Source of SoliceDeep Source of SoliceDeep Source of Solice

Have only embibed a few times... when necessary ...
dee doo!!







Additional photos below
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Paul on the PilePaul on the Pile
Paul on the Pile

One of the pyres that had not been lighted.
Contrast of White and BlackContrast of White and Black
Contrast of White and Black

One of the pyres that had not been lighted.
Camping in the Wild.Camping in the Wild.
Camping in the Wild.

When ppossible we camp without paying. The truck has water, wood,food, and ready hands to make it work. We also have shovels for calls of nature.
En Route to Jasper ... end of  MayEn Route to Jasper ... end of  May
En Route to Jasper ... end of May

As we travelled and changed altitute by thousands of meters the snow was encountered again and again.
 Pablo and I Pablo and I
Pablo and I

Lake Loiuse in the backround.


3rd June 2007

Rear view of one of the group
Barbara: I take it that's a man's ass on view?

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