Frozen Flamingos

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We have just spent the most awesome 3 days or so, traversing the Bolivian side of the Andes . The scenery was spectactular. Heaps of volcanoes, vast flats, multicoloured lakes, and cold looking birds (including me).

Six travellers were sqeezed into a rather temperamental landcruiser, which refused to go into 3rd gear. We mostly chugged along the altiplano in 2nd gear, which allowed time for photographs. Occasionally, our chauffer, master chef and mechanic, would get the beast into 4th and we would nail it along the dusty tracks, skidding all over the place. Each time we stopped, our driver would be under the hood, tinkering away with his trusty screwdriver.

Unfortunately, many of our photo opportunities were thwarted by an over-excited Italian in our group. He had an obsession with chasing all the birds and vicuñas to make for more exciting photos. Fine for him, but unless we were quick out of the jeep, most of our photos ended up with landscapes.

Darwin´s crowd were in another jeep, doing the tour at the same time as us. We visited some boiling mud pits (a la Rotorua). Naturally, they walked straight past the sign talking about extreme danger of death and wandered around the slightly dodgy edges of the pools. One guy was filming with his video camera and walked into a boiling bit of mud. Luckily, he had boots on, or his feet would be toast.

Our accommodations were interesting. The first night was in a small settlement of hospedajes, presumably there to cater for all the tourists that pass through on the tour. The buildings were an exercise in how to build the coldest house ever. The building was made of clay bricks, and the roofing iron was held down by big stones and old tyres. There were rows of rooms for 6 people, plus a long dining room. The only apparent form of heating was a tiny burner which, when cranked, provided a little heat for the 2 or 3 people huddled around it. Some of the window panes were missing, but the most astounding thing was the locals that wandered in and out, leaving the door open! They don´t seem to feel the cold. We may has well have been sitting outside in the night air (which at 4,200m or so is a good 10 to 20 degrees below zero).

Needless to say, some had a very cold night. When I woke up and saw the ice on the inside of the window, I was pretty happy to have packed my down jacket and sleeping bag. The altitude meant it was a great effort to do anything. Even rolling over in bed or putting on my shoes made me puffed. Scary stuff.

The second night we stayed at a salt hotel. Here, everthing is made of salt - the beds, tables, chairs. This place had no heating either, but seemed to be a bit warmer. We even got two blankets on the bed.

The salar itself was amazing. We drove for hours along its dizzy white flats. The photos speak for themselves.

We finished the tour with a quick visit to the train cemetary - a relic from the days when the mines were making big bucks. The rusting trains are a little spooky now.

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Photos

Bolivian border
Check out the tanker full of sulphuric acid, cranking it along the dirt track!

Volcanic activity
By the way, the sign says do not advance, danger of death...

Comments

[mary]

awesome
hi you too. meandug visiting your parents. love the web page. you look terrific. struggling with this apple stuff. luv and xxxx mary