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Spitok Gompa in morning light
I got up early on my birthday and went for a walk to Indus river. Light was sparkling and waking up the fields... Having arrived in Leh on 24th April, it transpired that my most recent e-mail did not reach any of my contacts in Leh. They thought I was coming around 26th! Hence, there I was at the airport...all aloooone... and the Journey had started in earnest. I got a taxi to only place I knew of...through a dusty road, away from Leh town and up the hill to the Spitok Gompa (monastery). Unknowingly, I took a picture of if from the airplane as we were leaning in to land. Breathing heavily I climbed the steps from the road base and tried to find anyone in the labyrinth of stairs, prayer flags, courtyards, Buddhist symbols and amazing buildings.
Aha! I saw typical dark red robes of the monk fluttering down one of the courtyards...tried to run (slow motion) and shouted: ARE YOU TENZIN? (starting to feel happily dizzy) . He hid!!!! (I wandered if it was my heavy breathing) …Or so it seemed. He was tending to some ritual oil lamps when I trundled down towards him...determined to be here but restrained from exhilaration by respect (both cultural and spiritual) and a sense of my lungs still being in Delhi (a really
bad place for lungs). Gelong (a level of ordination of a Lama) Sonam spoke good English and quickly assessed the situation. We went (I sort of rolled) to the still-waiting taxi who swiftly ripped me off in spite of the confirmed fee with a taxi-union official at the airport. He had "no change" and I had no smaller notes. So my ride turned almost triple.... But, hey...the flexibility and the lightness of being... Important and unimportant…It's all in how you react…Hope he uses it for good purpose and all that...
Gelong Sonam and a small lady road-worker he "hijacked" helped take my bags up all the steps and made sure I was comfortable in his quarters with butter tea and an order to rest. He got on his mobile to raise the troops and soon after one of the secular teachers, Tenzin, arrived in his car. He took me to main Leh Gompa to find one of the school heads - Geshe (Buddhist philosophy master) Kunzan Jigme. He got on his mobile and straightened more curves and loops of communication. Soon we were on our way to my host family. Jangspal family were (and remain) friendly, welcoming and caring.
Being
Looking down from Spitok Gompa
It IS as steep a climb as it looks! pushy and wanting to know everything now ("so I can plan") I found myself teaching the next day. Breathing was under control after good night sleep and I was welcomed by curious, polite and friendly bunch of boys - young monks or Gelongs. There were (things are changing with another teacher arriving soon) 3 classes; year 1 and 2, year 3 and 4, year 5 and 6. They look after each other, older ones are caring of younger ones but very occasionally bossy and controlling (they are better at it than I am). Younger classes have been taught lots of English songs and all know lots of games - taught by a previous teacher-volunteer. Even though I may be lagging behind on this front, I have found that their use (understanding) of English is poor and wanted to focus on that instead (through as much fun as I could think of).
I have found out, coughing through brake-time, that they all love to play cricket in their dusty school courtyard. How they don't end up choking in all the dust raised is a concern. The little ones have straight away recognized a soft target + their English is so basic
(little three year olds barely know the Latin alphabet) that our classes have many elements of chaos. Day starts at 10 and finishes at 4pm (6 days a/week). Boys get up around 6.30am for 7am Buddhist studies.
In terms of teachers; Tenzin teaches Math's and sometimes science, Tibetan teacher Geshe Kelsang teaches Ladakhi/Tibetan and Hindi (both with completely different writing) and sometimes social studies...
First week was rather unorthodox as my arrival has changed the teacher/class daily rota circle, so we often ended up with 2 classes or 4 years together for the final hour....Tenzin was occasionally absent on other chores and Geshe Kelsang had to be in the Gompa in the afternoons whole of last week.
As they know we western folk have a strange notion of our own importance and celebrate our birthdays elaborately (I have made a fuss of going into town and buying chocolate and cakes for the boys and family)…they all made and effort (not sure of our customs but adopting their own versions with smiles). I did try to make it special myself…woke-up early, did short meditation practice, went for a walk, played with the elements, talked to dzos and donkeys and whistle-argued with
Write me a question in English, please, and than say it outloud....
"Aaaah, she is not like Miss Katie" (previous volunteer-teacher)... the hoopoe birds. Abi (grandmother) pulled my ears so I can grow taller (on a certain plain I know I still really need to grow). That evening I was invited to the school HQ temple for a special Puja with serious practice/chanting and boys very solemnly eating the cake I offered to each.. All of us slightly unsure, but united in appreciating each others efforts. I finally burst out with a need to make it loud and jolly - challenging them to a throw or two - playing cricket. They certainly made that day special!
There have been quite a few days when I received a phone call on the day or night before, letting me know there is no school next/that day because of important Puja (this week all the monks from surrounding monasteries are in Leh Gompa for a major "Buddhist rave"...it is a city of maroon robes outside). I was invited to previous major Puja celebrations/practice: for Buddha's birthday (1-3rd May) and for White Tara (6th May). I have promptly managed a faux-pas...but my motivation was pure ...so it was OK. To elaborate - it being a special day (Buddha's Birthday) I went with Rinchen and her
Winking practice
Trying to get the youngest class to focus on English sentences and tasks was like asking them to go and kiss a girl...However a winking practice (looking at different important action words - or verbs to you and me) had them seriously engaged and practicing on each other as well as myself. I was smitten...Wouldn't you be? mom (my family hosts) to Leh market and shops. I bought one of those no sleeves shawl-neck type, gold-coloured brocade shirts and proudly went to Puja. Ahem...I was noticed. Oh yes. Thought it was as I was the only western human there and felt very self-conscious. Than Geshe Jigme (and couple of other monks) quietly mentioned that only lamas should wear this type of shirt. ! …but its OK…I won't turn into a Dzo (yak-cow mix) or anything like that….oh mother Earth open…Lightness of being and lessons learned...
I love it all really: vast landscapes, my own attempts in humility, not knowing if the foot is stepping wrong, people's friendliness, tolerance and sense of humour, Abi Tsering Dolma's (grandmather of the family) tai puli little sweet breads, dust in my eyes (I'm trying). I have moments of feeling lost or confused, of wanting to find that isolated cave... but they don't last. I haven't ventured far yet...I'm relishing finally being in one place for a while.
I think of all of you often - with love and perspective. I love my messages,so keep them coming (I laughed at Martin's "Zen and the art of ..." for a while and have
Cricket practice at school HQ
The spectators (younger monks and myself) were on the edge of their seets... found myself protectively smiling at Netty's happines 😉, felt blessed with the connection with Kim lasting through so many years, knew that Maya and my sister will understand where I am, thought of all and each one of all my beautifull friends in Argentina, New Zealand and Australia, know that Bosko will know the importance of having your ears pulled on your birthday and smiling at Niki's serious questions about young monks.)
Love you all.
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anonymous
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Irena ...Te extrañamos...dont forget to Argentine,muy lindos lugares..a ver si escribes en Españollll..please....Besos miles...emma