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After the Bolivian government decided that this road was way to dangerous to be used as a public thoroughfare they embarked on a scheme to construct a new beaute safer road. This only took them 12 years.
What to do with the old, windy, twisty, dirt road winding its way down some 3,000m ??
well ... lets charge gringos to hire mountain bikes and let them hurl themselves down and see if they have more luck than the phenominal number of motorists who have met their fate on this road.
uh huh.
great plan.
so, how did we end up biking down the world´s most dangerous road ?
will the answer "seemed like a good idea at the time" suffice ?
ok, maybe it was the free t-shirt, maybe the spectacular views, maybe the opportunity to be in the saddle of a bike doing something energetic at altitude (la paz sits at a comfortable 3,700m and we journied up the road to start our adventure) or maybe it was just a more comforting prospect that sitting on a tourist bus that is unlikely to have seen maintenance in its driving career with a driver who would more than likely be underpaid,
without sleep and high on coca leaves.
so, in a mini bus with other budding mountain bikers we we ferried up to 4,750m and presented with our trusty steeds for the day. My trusty steed was named Brasil and sported a flashy red colouring, she had 2 wheels, special suspension and after we all had a little drink of 96% alcohol which we shared with Pacha Mama, we were amigas. Rene's bikes name was Woody, as from Toy Story (1 and 2), as his bike had no rear suspension.....
things started to warm up and as we all adjusted to our bikes, we cruised down the first section of sealed road. this part of the journey was largely comfortable, cruisy and rather enjoyable all in all. big windy loops in the road, spectacular vistas, the cold didn´t bother us due to aforementioned drink and riding in the seat was a comfortable option.
this journey was not what we had paid good money for though and things were about to change.
after paying our entry to the "world´s most dangerous road" (high probability that the money went to the purchase of the mayor´s sisters sparkly new 4wd) we were informed that
it was time to dismount our bikes and walk them across the drug checkpoint. it seems that the drug checkpoint is a section of the road that is looking for vehicles with the capacity to conceal large quantities of coca leaves that can then be turned into other substances. they weren´t too interested in the gringo bike riders.
then we hit the uphill section.
i´ve mentioned before that simple things are a whole new experience at altitude, well uphill on a mountain bike at alitutude is not much fun i can guarantee you.
enough said.
the downhill bit.
finally we get to the top and the section where we get to head towards our lunch destination, swimming pool and beer.
we get new instructions, safety warnings, bike checks and its game on.
Rene charges down the bumpy road with gusto, whilst jen and i prefer to hang at the back and attempt a bit of scenery appreciation with our thrilling ride.
the only problem with scenery viewing in these sort of conditions is that generally, a bike will head in the direction you are looking ... looking at 800m drops off the side of slippery, bumpy, dirt roads, is not
really a smart choice!
so, up there in the clouds we looked ahead, looked out and breathed the clean fresh, crisp air of alitude.
aside from dust, you get to ride through waterfalls, water, look at the treetops, wonder at the butterflies and enjoy the relief as as you progress downwards, you are dropping in elevation which has the wonderful sensation of providing moisture to your lungs.
bliss!
Rene was with the hard and fast crew at the front who slid into corners, manouvered back out of them and torn down the downhill straights letting gravel, dust and sparks fly in their aftermath.
for those of us not in the speed demon pack and when not taking time to enjoy the scary heights of the most dangerous road in the world, one spends their time gripping intently onto the handle bars of the bikes with brakes always at some pressure. too much will see you go over the handle bars, and where else you don´t even want to think ... yet not enough will result in similar consequences that are equally undesirable.
the mental and phsyical condition needed to be prime and even though i sustained some pretty sore wrists
throughout the ride, they were not enough to prevent the enjoyment of a cold brew in a warm climate (dodging sand flies of course) when at the bottom.
it was a cracker of a day for everyone.
no spills, tears or deaths (there has been at least 2 already this year) and i have finally accomplished a bike ride of a distance that may even impress my cycling family - 62km.
ok, ok ... it was down hill ... but it was still bike riding!
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Carlos the Jackal
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Death ride complete.
How much fun is that bike ride. I heard a story about a guy who got kidnapped off that road doing the same bike ride. Dont think i told you that before you left..The view form the Esmeralda pool also looks the goods. A top tip from somebody in the know maybe. Keep up the great pics.