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Published: April 17th 2007
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The grey UK
The most northerly point in Britain Once again my apologies for the slackness of keeping my blogs up to date.
Sice leaving Asia in ealry december I flew to the United Kingdom. As soon as I got off the plane I suddenly lost my tan from 2 months in Asia and could not for the life of me figure out why I was the only one off the plane in shorts, shirt and thongs at 6 in the morning when it was 4 degrees and raining. I was also quickly told that the weather wouldnt change for the next 5 months. It was a great introduction to the UK!
I ended up working in mid Wales as a furntire maker. Ive learnt alot and built some interesting pieces of furniture. I have managed to score some decents waves in the UK. I drove to the most northen point in Scotland and found some absolutey incredible waves. The ocean was the coldest I have ever surfed in though and I could only manage 2 hours at the most. It then took me a good day to defrost and begin to feel my toes again. The last few months have been rather grey, wet and cold. So all
I did was work to save to get out of there. Another expirence even if it wasnt a pleasant one. I much prefer my home land with lots of sun year round, warm winters compared to the uk and the beach a stones throw away instead of a 4 hour drive! That pretty much raps up the last few months since December!
Im currently in Portugal loving the culture, cheap beer, SUNSHINE AT LAST, beautifull people and some of the best surf I have ever rode! I arrived here a week or so ago just for a short holiday and now I can see myself living here. I love it.
After alot of failed attempts to hire a car the night I arrived at Lisbon airport I finally gave up and spent another hour to try and get a bus to the coast. This failed aswell so I bit the bullet and got a taxi to the nearest camp ground as all hotels where alleagdly booked out being the Easter weekend. My taxi driver was a champ. He truly loved his country and the fact that he spoke little english lifted my spirits after 3 hours of hassle at the
airport with the "Tourist Information" people. As soon as I got into the taxi my driver asked if I liked football, I said it was ok and for the next 10 minutes our conversation went a little like this: You like football? Yeah its ok. portugal best place for football, you know Ronaldo? Yeah ive heard of him mate. He portugese. Ronadlo play football, He portugese. Ronaldo. God, he portugese. He's portugese I take it then? Si, Ronaldo he play football, He portugese. And on and on it went untill we passed the famous football stadium in Lisbon that was being built. He drove me around the parking lot and pointed out every little stat about ronaldo, football and his stadium. I kept asking if Ronaldo was in their and could I meet him. He didnt understand that part. Once he made sure I will never forget that Ronaldo plays football, He portugese he asked where I was from. I proudly let him know I was from god's country, Oz. His response was: Uh, Australiano. Portgese found Australia before captain cook. When I asked him why they didnt claim Australia he simply said "Too hot, we like portugal" Then the
subject went back to football and Ronaldo. By the time he dropped me off at the camp site I nicknamed him Ronnie, short for his majesy, Ronaldo!
A few days later I picked up my car and realised I was in for an adventure. In portugal the drive on the right hand side in left hand drive vehicles. Driving on the right hand side is no big deal but driving a left hand vehicle for the first time and trying to navigate my way out of the city was pretty entertaining. To make matter worse I had a manual so the clutch was on the left and the accelrator on the right. Everything was the complete opposite to what I was used too. It took a couple of hours untill I had a hang of things when I realised I was heading in the wrong direction as to where I wanted to be going. Another few hours where lost but eventually I arrived late in the day in Paria do gunicho.
I spent the next few days sight seeing around Lisbon and Sintra and killing time in cafes waiting for the swell to arrive. Eventually I headed North and spent
a few days in Ericeria checking out the breaks and getting familiar with the coastline. I meet some locals and they pointed out a few hidden spots after a few beers. The following day the swell started to kick in so I headed north again and ended up in Peniche, the middle of Portugal. Friday arvo the swell finally hit. Late Friday I surfed the world famous break called "supertubos" It lived up to its name and the loacls where surfing at an extremly high standard. They surfed their wave so well that Ive never surfed in a line up that was so competetive. From Friday on all I did was surf 3 times a day. My days would consist of waking before day break and driving to supertubos to check the conditions. I would hit the water just after day break and surf untill I was ready for breakie. Eat breakfast at a cafe. Hang out around the caravan and stretch untill mid morning. Than I would hit the water again around lunch and surf for a good couple of hours. Than back to rest at the caravan and more stretching untill mid to late arvo when again I
would hit the water untill dark. I got chatting to the locals and a few of them invited me for a few beers at the local pubs and clubs. They said they would pick me up at 12, I thought they meant midday but they meant midnight. We partied till daylight. I meet alot of the locals surfers and tried speaking in portugese the whole night. I loved every minute of it. They where really happy and care free people. Sunday the swell peaked at 3-4 metres so I drove back down south to surf Europes most famous right hand point break, Coxos. Even thought it was slightly onshore I got a pretty good idea of why it is so famous.
I fly out tomorrow back to the UK for another 4 months of work than off to South America where I have every intention of doing nothing but camping under the stars and surfing 3 times a day every day for 6 months or so. As well as hanging out with the locals and speaking thier language, I cant wait!
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Michael Forde
non-member comment
Paradise!
Hi Tim. Great "report" and terrific photos. Portugal sounds like paradise and I can understand why you think that you could "put up" with living there. Sun, surf and partying until dawn... it sounds sensational. I guess the UK is going to be a little easier this time round given that it will be summer and the tourist season. Keep safe mate. We look forward to reading your next report. Michael