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Published: August 6th 2007
Leon
Lion StatueI arrive late in the morning to the bustling colonial town of León, Nicaragua. The bus terminal is of a typical Central America variety, bustling with people, touts pulling you by the arm to buy clothes, fruit or some shoes that will probably fall apart within a week. I get a whiff of a sweet smell of smoke coming from the corners where little ladies in are frying up various kinds of meat over the open fire grills, there are scrawny starving dogs scavenging around in the hope that a piece of fat or bone might fall in front of them. I walk a few blocks and dump my bags at the nearest basic hotel and am relieved to find out that the price is cheap and very reasonable. It is interesting the way the mind works in this respect as coming down into Mexico from the States I was excited at how cheap it was in comparison yet now if I went back to Mexico I would be screaming at how expensive it is.
León has one of the hottest climates in the whole country and I could really feel it as I broke into a heavy sweat walking
into the centre of town. Some marvelous churches scatter the town center, the Basilica de la Ascuncion right at the town square dates back to 1747 and is the largest cathedral in the whole of Central America and this is marked by great statues of roaring lions that surround all the entrances. The central park is quite pleasant trickling with street vendors selling hot dogs, pizza, ice cream and various other snacks. One of my favourite aspects of latin cities is the central park, unlike the parks you find in most western cities where most people just go to run or walk the dog, the central parks here are mainly for meeting up with people for a friendly chat. Much more concrete and benches to sit around and idle about whilst gossiping about the girls of the neighborhood. It is so nice that people still have a public place (thats not a pub, although I know in Europe alot of the year its too cold to be outside) to get to know people in the city.
Around the centre, I bump into my friend from Costa Rica, Harold whom I met in Honduras. He is an aritisan and makes
Street Side Eatery
The cheapest place to eat in town! basic jewelry and sells it to tourists to pay for travelling around Central America. I considered taking up this occupation for a short time because it is quite fun, creative , you meet lots of people and pays your way around. The unfortunate part is always having to be in touristy areas which I dislike immensely. Harold has had a good day selling so we decide to celebrate. We pick up a bottle of black label Flor de Caña rum aged 5 years and for only 5 bucks its a steal. Its Nicaraguas favourite drink and I can tell why because its tastes damn good.
Behind the great cathedral is an excellent, traditional street side vendor, serving up all sorts of food including Nicaraguas famous dish called Gallo Pinto which is basically rice, beans and if you are lucky abit of cabbage. There are alot of other options like cheese pancakes, fried battered vegetables and various barbequed meats. It is a bargain for a couple of bucks. After we finish we sit in the park for a few drinks. Harold seems to know everyone in the town. There is some live music playing at a bar across the street
Nun
Leon so we decide to go take a look. It is an acoustic three piece consisting of guitar, bass and bongos, playing various cover tunes coming from all over the Americas. It is so refreshing and inspiring to hear such great music most of which I hadnt heard and unfortunately mostly forgotting since due to the amount of rum consumed. Most of the music played on the radio is the same old disco tunes such as Gasolina which has been on the radio for at least 2 years. By midnight, Harold is all soused up ready to party more, but the party is over and it is time to hit the sack for tomorrow I am heading to the beach to try and escape the heat.
Poneloya beach is a mere 15km from León, it is underdeveloped compared to its twin beach Las Peñitas so i'm bound to find some cheap accomodation. I ask for directions to Hotel Locaya and two guys tell me I shouldnt stay there beacuse its a real dump. I thank them for their advice but considering the amount of cheap, run down ghettos I have stayed in over the years I wasnt very worried. Hotel
Pedro
Playa Las Peñitas Locaya is a marvel of human engineering, a huge wooden structure supported on beams around 4 metres high. It feels like im in Alice in Wonderland, the floorboards are completely warped, there are holes in alot of the walls and the others are being chewed away by termites. The doors and windows dont close properly and there doesnt seem to be anyone else staying here except a friendly family of bats in the opposite room. It is hard to believe the hotel has not yet fallen apart, no doubt it will not last for many more years. Still, im not complaining because for $5 a night I get beachfront views with a little balcony to boot, living the lap of luxury. The beach itself is better than expected, calm and water tepid, really nice to relax for awhile. Further down the road at Las Peñitas beach, the hotels are much more developed catering for people who are not bums like me. The beach is only slightly better, there is a little coastal inlet where boats come out of. I meet a kid called Pedro who lives here, he has an old worn out bodyboard and dreams of one day owning
a proper surfboard, he seems like a good kid.
Now it is sunday, and almost the start of Semana Santa or Easter week, which signifies the arrival of every man and his dog for one long week of partying, getting drunk and playing really loud music. A great way to mark the anniversary of the son of God being crucified, forsaking us of all our sins so we can partake in making more of them! The scene is not really for me at this point in time, so I head back to Leon where its now very peaceful and quiet almost like a ghost town. During Easter week in practically all Latin Countries, there are processions through the streets of town where people carry large edificies of Christ and León is no exception. From church to church they walk followed by priests wearing strange outfits and looking very menacing indeed. They didnt even seem to be very interested in what was going on and alot of them seemed quite bored and just wanted to go home. The first couple of processions are rather interesting they are very sombre with trumpets and trombones playing melancholic melodies but after awhile they
seem to become very repetitive and the heat of Leon was starting to get unbearable where most days were over 100F. I decide to head on south to Granada.
Granada is the most popular tourist town of Nicaragua, its abundant with colourful buildings, cobbled streets and a much more milder climate than that of Leon. There are dozens of little cafes that line the main streets and is a nice atmosphere to sit and have a drink or two. I think its quite a nice town but I feel it lacks a certain authentic character that Leon had.
Im staying in a popular hostel here known as the Bearded Monkey. Its a hostel thats part of the new wave of tourist style travelling, they are starting to appear across alot of Central America such as the Black Cat Antigua, El Retiro lodge Lanquin, Guatemala. Travelling used to be quite an exotic voyage across foreign lands where you find yourself stranded in amongst bizarre food and strange culture that made you realise how different you worldview is. But now, these hostels are completely self contained to all the creature comforts you are used to back home. The same old
San Benito
San Benito is known as the "black saint" - and not so much because the subject, San Benito de Palermo, was an African - but moreso because of the reason his help is sought by the faithful. San Benito, at least at his shrine in Mexico City, is the patron saint of asassins, who pray to him that they attempts will succeed, and that they won't be caught by the police or by the family or friends of their victims! He is worshipped in Leon on the first day of Semana Santa food, internet and dont worry nobody speaks Spanish here anyway and there are TV and videos to keep you occupied. People are now travelling half way around the world to be in the same place they left back home.
Llego a ciudad de león casi al media dia, el terminal de buses es similar a los otras de America Central. Muchas personas me toman del brazo para ke comprè sus productos. Ye huelo en humo desde las esquinas en donde pequeñas senoras cocinando varios tipos de carne, Ademas estan los perros ke esperan que se me caiga un huesa. No poco tiempo hasta el hotel mas cercano y dejo mis mochillas. Me allegre saber que el precios es barato.
El clima de León es el mas caliente de todo pais y pude sentir lo a poco tiempo de caminar. Maravillosas Iglesias se aprecian por todos lados de la ciudad. La Basilica de la Ascuncion esta localizada en el centro, Fue construida en 1747, y esta Iglesia mas grande de toda America Central. El parque central es tranquilo y es muy buen lugar para comprar hot dogs, pizza y helados.
El en centro, encontré harold, mi amigo Costarricense
ke conoci en Honduras. El es artisano y confecciona joyerias en materiales diferentes. El vende sus joyas a los turistas para costiar su viaje. He pensado hacer de mismo que el por que es muy divertido y conoces gente. El punto ke no me gusta de este trabajo es que debes vivir en lugares turisticas. Harold habia tenido un buen dia en las ventas, entonces decidimos celebrar, compramos una botella de Rom se llama Flor de Caña cinco años de añeja por solo cinco dolares. Este ron se la bebida favorita de los nicaragüenses y puedo decir de verdad ke sabe la verga.
Detras de la cathedral hay un "comedorcito" con muchas variadades de comida, incluso de famoso "Gallo Pinto", que consiste en arroz, frijoles y repollo. Tienes mas opciones como panqueques de queso, verduras fritas y carnes asadas.
Despues ke terminamos de comer nos sentamos en el parque y a tomar unas tragos. Harold paracia conocer muchisima gente en la ciudad. Hay musica en vivo al otro lado de la calle, es una banda ke tocar musica acoustica, ke tocan musica de todo America con guitarras y bongos. Es inspirador escuchar esa magnificar musica. La mayoria de
la musica que se escuchar en la radio es la misma todo tiempo.
La playa de Poneloya es solo 15 km desde León. Pregunto por la direction para llegar al hotel Locaya y dos hombres me dicen que no debo ir alla por que el lugar apesta. Hotel Locaya es un maravillosa obra de Ingenieria. Una grande structura sustenida en madera. El piso esta ondulado completemente, hay muchos agujeros en las paredes. Las puertas y ventanas no funciona adecuadamente y no nadie mas alojando en el hotel. No me estoy quejando, ya he por 5 dollares puedo ver de mar desde mi balcon.
Hay es domingo y la celebraciones de Semana Santa estan a punto de cominzar. Mucho gente fue a la playa para ser fiestas grandes. No quero haces eso asi que volvi a Leòn en donde hay un ciudad phantasmas. Cada dia, hay processiones a través de la ciudad en donde personas llevan el Christo grande. Los Sacerdotes vistin ropas colorias. Despues un rato no podia soportar el calor asi que me fui a Granada.
Granada es la ciudad mas turistica de Nicaragua. Hay muchas construcciones coloridas por todos lados. Hay mucho cafeterias pequeñas y tienen muy buena atmosphere. Pero, siento que la ciudad no tiene razgos authenticos asi despues dos dias me fue al Isla de Ometepe
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dale
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might seeya round the traps
Just a quick one mark.... have taken 6 months of work, going SE Asia, Eastern Euope and India..... might seeya round Hope ya well, keeping out of trouble and enjoying things. cheers mate have a good one