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Asia » India » Karnataka » Bangalore
July 12th 2005
Published: July 13th 2005
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Heya, Liz again. I've been nominated to do this blog too, given that it's my first time in India and my impressions are (obviously) more interesting. Right? Anyway, that goes without saying 😊

I'm not quite sure where to start, so I'll just try to summarize the week. We arrived in New Delhi last week after a flight on the nicest plane I'd ever been on. Free socks + eyemasks + Lou Reed Movie + Ice Cream. Kickass. We had a couple of layovers in the Middle East, and I have never, EVER experienced anything like the heat we felt when we stepped off the plane in Muscat. It was 1:00 in the morning, and the temperature had to be pushing 40 degrees. It was like stepping into an oven. Crazy. Even crazier: Omanian Dairy Queen at 2:00am.

When we got to Dehli we were greeted by the nice man who would be our driver for the next few days, collected our luggage, checked into our YWCA and slept. It was one of the easiest arrivals we've had, anywhere, thanks to all the arrangements made for us by Pia's family (thankyou thankyou thankyou...)

During that first day, we tried to venture out into the main shopping district, but we were snatched up by a Auto driver (Autos=tiny, open-air, three wheeled cabs) who told us that the entire area was closed off, due to protests or something. Anyway, we naively believed him, and permitted him to take us to this overpriced "government emporium" where we had a team of 5 or 6 people all trying to sell us expensive bedcovers. We later, predictably, found out the guy got some kind of commission. THEN we walked around the area a bit after being carted to an overpriced restaurant, and we were approached by about three or four young Indian men, each of them warning us about the previous one... like, in tandem. Haven't felt so popular in a while... anyway, turns out they didn't want to just practise their English...THEY ALL wanted to take us to Emporiums too. Ugh... we were so dumb then. Lesson learned: trust no one. And really, don't follow them.

The next day we got up early in the morning to take a train to Agra so we could see the Taj Mahal. I thought I'd seen slums on the outskirts of Istanbul, but I'd never seen anything like what we passed through on our way out of Delhi. They just stretched on and on for miles outside the city, populated by poor kids, skinny cows, monkeys, garbage... it was really sad to see, and particularly weird from our comfortable, airconditioned carriage.

When we arrived in Agra we beat off the touts who wanted to take us to the Taj in their cabs, but ended up being swindled anyway by the official, prepaid taxi agency. Guh... Anyway for admission into the Taj Mahal there are two rates: one for nationals, and one for everyone else. Indians pay 20 rupees (less than a dollar) and foreigners pay 750 (yes, that's right). So, I shelled out the big bucks (sorta) while Pia affected a fake Indian accent and managed to get in for the local price. She almost got caught when they went through her wallet at security, but she talked her way out of it. So proud, we all were.

And the Taj itself... it was unbelievable. After all the hype I don't think either of us really thought it would be as impressive at everyone said... but it was. It was unreal. We spent almost four hours just sitting around, looking at it. My camera chose to die the moment we stepped inside, but Pia took loads and loads of pictures. Hopefully we'll get some more photos uploaded soon.

We spent the afternoon stuck in Agra, which was alright, but it was SO hot and muggy that day. The town wasn't really all that great either... really busy and touristy. I sort of got more of a taste of what driving in India is like, as Delhi's roads are pretty good, and the traffic is relatively tame. It's basically a free-for-all between cars, cows, pedestrians, and whatever else ends up on the road. so. much. honking. It got a bit scary at times, but the system seems to work (except we caused an Auto accident when we were hailing an Auto in Delhi... but nevermind that). Anyway, in Agra we had a really bad lunch that was brought to us by this crusty old man, who was literally dripping his sweat into our dhal...gross gross gross. The manager of the restaurant offered to buy my hiking shoes, though, and I was pretty tempted. I hate those shoes. After lunch, he tried to take us in his motorbike to his silver shop so that we could maybe make some trades, 'cause he liked Pia's sunglasses too, and we almost went. But then we didn't. I think we're learning to be a little less trusting, slowly...

The next day, we actually did make it out into the main shopping area in Delhi, and we found ourselves in consumer paradise. Everything is so colourful and beautiful and beaded and sparkly... the only thing restraining me from a buying frenzy was the thought of putting it in my backpack. That, and the likelihood that I would be, once again, ripped off. We'll shop with the protection of Pia's cousins in Bangalore.

Anyway, after our brief stay in Delhi, we flew all the way down to Bangalore, where we are now living in luxury with Mumma, Pia's fabulous grandmother. And, oh my god. The food. And the relaxing. And.... it's just so SO nice to be able to chill, be taken care of, and not have to think about where we're going to sleep, what we're going to eat, and what city we're going next. We've just been sitting around, reading, hanging out with Pia's family, and venturing out every now and again -- this is likely how life will be for the next month. Mumma's 80th birthday celebration is this weekend, so we'll be partying, as we do from time to time.

Take care all, and we'll be seeing you soon!

Love,

Liz


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31st August 2005

another yank in B'lore
A Texas native and a New York resident, I'm stationed in B'lore on a multi-week work assignment. http://blog.el-jefe.com for my thoughts on the experience.

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