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Published: January 2nd 2007
Happy New Year everyone. Can't believe it's 2007 already.
I'll be honest with you, I didn't know an awful lot about Belize before I started planning this trip. I vaguely knew it was somewhere in the Caribbean (I've learnt how to spell that now) but I had visions of it being some kind of island. So I was pleased to see that it actually forms part of central America, bordering Mexico and Guatemala. Formerly British Honduras, Belize gained independence in 1981. The population is only 250,000 and 75,000 of those live in Belize City.
From getting on the bus at the Mexican border, the changes between the two countries were evident. For a start, the main language here is English although there is still a fair smattering of Spanish speakers. The comfortable buses with reclining seats had been replaced by old US school buses. I was early and chatted to the conductor, Lionel, for a while. He told me about food and drink in Belize and told me to try the local beer, Belikin. It was a worthy recommendation. He was impressed with my knowledge of reggae, even though it didn't stretch much further than UB40 and Maxi Priest. "Not bad for a gringo," Lionel declared. The bus ride to Belize City was smooth and the scenery pleasant. Lionel put his own mix tape on the bus' stereo. There was something strangely soothing about watching the countryside pass by whilst the dulcet tones of Chris de Burgh belted out "Lady In Red". I knew I wasn't in Mexico any more.
I spent the first night in Belize Bity at a place called the Seaside Guest House. They were very friendly hosts and I got to sleep in bunk beds for the first time since I was a young 'un. There was an outdoor balcony with a cool breeze and a great view of the sea. I met a couple of English folk (Hello Fred and Mrs Fred - sorry, I'm rubbish with names) who passed on a few recommendations for southern Belize. I strolled around the city for a couple of hours. Everyone was doing their last minute Christmas shopping in the blazing sun. The streets were packed so I needed little persuasion to return to the comfort of the balcony.
A few weeks back, I had been unsure what to do at Christmas. Even though I am now leaving my 20s far behind, I had never spent Christmas outside the confines of Yorkshire, let alone England. I didn't want to be trudging around on Christmas Eve to find all the hotels full or closed. I decided that I should surround myself with a little comfort for a few days at Christmas. I reserved myself three nights at the Radisson Fort George, the finest hotel in Belize City. So it's not backpacking. Maybe it's cheating a little bit. I decided not to worry about it.
I checked in as early as I could to get full value for my dollars. The sight of a large screen TV was like seeing a pool of refreshing water in the middle of the Sahara. I instantly flicked it on. Amongst over 100 cable channels was the Fox Soccer Channel showing the English Premiership. I flopped onto the oh-so-comfortable bed and didn't move for about 3 hours (one of which I spent snoozing).
The hotel was very quiet over the Christmas period. There were a few retired couples and families to say hello to but not many solo backpackers. I would wake up and go for a morning swim, even on Christmas Day. After a morning walk by the marina, I would grab some lunch, swim some more and generally longe around. I watched a lot of sport on TV. I received some calls and text messages from home on Christmas Eve, which was great. In the evening, I settled down and managed to find "It's A Wonderful Life" on one of the many channels. It was dark outside and it felt like Christmas for the first time. So did I get my Christmas lunch? Did I get turkey? You betcha. Turkey, baked ham, rice and beans (a Belizean favourite) and stuffing.
I enjoyed my Christmas in a far away land. The food, the hotel and the hot sun were great. But my streak of consecutive Christmas Eve drinking sessions in Yorkshire with a pint before noon has now been snapped. Paul Barron now holds that record outright and deserves hearty congratulations. But don't worry Paul - I'll be back next year to start a new streak. And the turkey was good - but not as good as Ma and Pa Harvey's.
Next time - it's time to get back on the backpacker trail. I head out to the islands and there's a tale of sea, snorkelling, stingrays and more.
Have a great 2007 everyone
Joff
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Ma & Pa Harvey
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You didn't miss the turkey
Don't worry, most of this year's turkey went in the freezer as we couldn't manage to eat it all with such a shortage of mouths to feed. We'll have it for Thanksgiving if you tell us when it is! We celebrated your birthday in style with a stuffed roast duck. Mum got all emotional when we sang "Happy Birthday". Pass the parcel was a bit tame this year though.