Paris, Rive-Gauche


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June 17th 2005
Published: June 19th 2005
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Eiffel Tower - FinallyEiffel Tower - FinallyEiffel Tower - Finally

The design is actually really simple (that's the engineer speaking). That doesn't mean it isn't elegant though. The culture that's built up around it helps of course.





I guess I'm doing Paris kind of backwards. My last day in Paris, and only now do I go to the Eiffel Tower. I was convinced last night to do the tower the "authentic" way. Let me tell you, those 600 or so steps to platform 2 were definitely authentic - brutally so. This morning's trip on the metro was rather eventful as well. You see, with the Carte-Orange, you're supposed to attach a photo to the card, sign your name, etc. Lets just say I neglected that part, and had the fortune of running into Metro enforcement. It was quite an experience trying to talk myself out of a €25 ticket to a guy who didn't speak a shred of English. After he threatened to call to the police the third time, I figured the smart thing to do would be to pay.

Anyways, I made up for everything at lunch. I
Meal with the LocalsMeal with the LocalsMeal with the Locals

So that's what "Terrine de rougets, galettes de choux-fleur et brocolis" is.
found this little cafe on Avenue Kleber (leading to the Arc Triomphe). First sign that this place was good: a non-stop stream of locals lining up fo rthe "a emporter" (take out) window. On the menu is "Terrine de rougets, galettes de choux-fleur et brocolis". I actually wasn't quite sure what it was (all I recognized was egg-plant, cauliflour and broccoli). Turned out to be cold-minced red snapper sandwiched between eggplant slices, with a fried broccoli/cauliflour purée mix. The plat-du-jour, along with a piece of chavaillons (which was absolutely devine) came to €13. Not bad at all.

A quick trip to L'Arc Triomphe ensued after lunch. The stairways go on forever! You're dizzy by the time you're done. The view is great though. From up there, you don't see the tourist trap mess that is Les Champs Elysées. The treat for the afternoon was the Musée D'Orsay. It's all good learning about impressionism in art history books, but nothing beats seeing the paintings up close, and in such density! One room is Renoir, the next one Monet, the next one Van Gogh, etc. The texture and feel of the paintings up close in person lends them life. There's also the matter of detail. From the textbooks, you'd never notice the little ring of flowers around the girl's finger in Renoir's Torso Study.

To finish off the evening, I impulsively joined a bike tour (€26) that a couple of people staying with me at Hotel Avenir were doing. It probably wasn't the most prudent of choice in terms of my energy level, but it was great. It if weren't for the fact that there's nowhere to lock a bike, I would have rented one. Seeing Paris par la velo is effortless and fun. The included cruise on the Seine didn't hurt either. It let me in on the fact that there are hundreds of flashlights througout the Eiffel Tour that go off and sparkle for 10 minutes every hour, on the hour. Took a bit of a fall towards the end (loose rock), but nothing major. All in all, a great day. Might do a tour of Versailles with the bike tour company when I get back to Paris.


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L'Arc TriompheL'Arc Triomphe
L'Arc Triomphe

Man, Napolean had one hell of an ego. Can't complain about the results though. I almost tried to cross the world's largest traffic roundabout until I noticed the tunnel to get to the middle.
Renoir, Up Close and PersonalRenoir, Up Close and Personal
Renoir, Up Close and Personal

The textbooks pictures definitely don't cut it...
DetailsDetails
Details

Even impressionists have an eye for detail. I never noticed that the girl in Renoir's Torso Study had a small ring of flowers on one of her fingers.
City of LightsCity of Lights
City of Lights

It's clichéd I know, but the city really is spectacular at night. There are sparkling lights througout the Eiffel Tour that go off every hour, but my choice of a small compact camera unfortunately means giving up certain capabilities. The lack of stability and flash exposure compensation meant that my attempt at capturing the glittering tower wasn't all that impressive.


20th June 2005

Way to go!
What an eventful day with the Metro enforcement... we are truly sorry about that.. But on the bright side, you experienced Paris at its fullness :-) So you went up to L'Arc Tripomphe, right? I didn't notice the tunnel and I tried to cross the road.. I almost got kill.. :-) Thx for the phone call earlier, so you're going to give me postcard? That's GREAT! Thanks! Enjoy your trip! Keep it up!

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