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Today will be our last day in Sorrento, as we depart for Paris early tomorrow morning, when Francesco (or one of his surrogates) takes us to the airport in Napoli. Our easyJet flight from Napoli arrives at the Paris/Orly airport around noon, when a long-time friend and taxi driver, Serge Molho, will transport us to the cottage we have rented in the tiny Paris suburb of Malakoff, about 3 miles from the center of the city.
By the time we depart tomorrow, we will have stayed 45 days in Sorrento, and in the same apartment on the Via degli Aranci. In all our travels over the past 20+ years, we have never remained in one location for such an extended period of time; the only time we came close was during our visit to Aix-en-Provence, where we stayed for 3 weeks during our first odyssey in 2014.
As Dee and I prepare for our departure tomorrow, we are packing more than our luggage. We take with us a treasure chest full of precious memories of the many days we lived and breathed in our Sorrento neighborhood. It will no doubt take the passage of time for us to fully
Neighborhood view
From the balcony at Via degli Aranci 25digest and reflect upon the many moments and places we experienced during our stay.
Of course, among the most memorable moments of our stay were undoubtedly those shared with our dear friends who, in some cases, traveled long and far to spend time with us: Laura, who made the long train ride from Rome for an overnight visit; John and Cindy, who made the arduous journey from Florida for a 9-day stint; and Peter and Rosita, who traveled from Munich via Napoli for their 5-day visit. We owe each of these special people a debt of gratitude for their personal insights, perspectives and opinions, all of which served to enrich our own travel experiences immeasurably.
We also take with us fond memories of the local personalities, like those highlighted in yesterday's blog entry, with whom we've made contact; as well as the sights and places in and around the old section of Sorrento. This is, after all, a tourist town, and a decidedly working-class one as well. There are no obvious signs of glitz, glitter, or of wealth and privilege here, such as we encountered on the French Riviera during our recent visit.
Sorrento's lifeblood relies upon
Arrivederci, Sorrento!
Via degli Aranci 25/1, Sorrento (photo courtesy of Rosita Zue) the endless stream of tourists who flock here because of its proximity to the Gulf of Naples, Capri, and the picturesque (but increasingly overrun) coastal towns of Positano, Amalfi Town and Ravello. The numerous hotels, B&Bs, restaurants, tour providers and souvenir shops sprinkled throughout this town simply could not survive without this influx of tourists and the money they spend.
Dee and I have enjoyed many leisure hours on our balcony, watching the real-time reality show that plays out every day on the busy street beneath our apartment. During the early days of our stay, the non-stop noise and chaotic scenes we witnessed from our lofty perch were frankly a bit unsettling to us, even annoying. At times, it reminded me of a "helter-skelter" or "Chinese fire drill" type situation, with every sort of motorized conveyance imaginable jockeying for position; and when you factor-in the pedestrian traffic, it makes for an even more toxic combination. We had to cross this busy street at least 100 times on-foot during our stay, and trust me, almost every time was an adventure!
The automobiles here are generally much smaller than the full-size ones driven in the states, and we saw no
Neighborhood view
From the balcony at Via degli Aranci 25 pick-up trucks whatsoever. The preferred mode of transportation here, by far, seems to be the motor scooter (no doubt for their economy and convenience). The drivers of these scooters (or "road roaches" as I refer to them) pretty much own the streets around this town, weaving in-and-out of vehicular traffic whenever and wherever it suits their fancy. They usually drive on the centerline of the street, thus creating a
de facto third lane of traffic for their exclusive use, although they are not averse to passing other vehicles on the right.
The last few days, as we've relaxed on the balcony with our cocktails, and reminisced about our time in Sorrento, we have come to realize that the entire experience---the traffic, the noise, the sights and sounds of our neighborhood--have become "second nature to us now". I am borrowing these few lines, and the underlying sentiments, from the 1964 film,
My Fair Lady, when Professor Henry Higgins finally realizes that he has become emotionally attached to Eliza Doolittle, the street urchin whom he transformed into a polished, sophisticated lady. And much like Henry Higgins, who sings that he has become "accustomed to her face", so too have we
Neighborhood view
From the balcony at Via degli Aranci 25 become accustomed to Sorrento. We leave tomorrow with a bundle of memories that we will treasure always.
Dee's Comments: I'm struggling to find the words to describe this magical trip! Days filled with purpose, thoughtfulness and so much love.
Our apartment on Via degli Aranci was like home. I became a pro with the induction stove, and with making 3-course meals in one frying pan; and then conquering this European washing machine. I will miss the neighbors, and our balcony, which became our "television" entertainment for the last 45 days, giving us an action-filled reality show with motor scooters, cars, buses, and hordes of tourists on foot.
And let's not forget the friends we have made here along the way, the restaurants that treated us like family, and touched our hearts. Now that we are bidding farewell to Sorrento, I cannot help but think about how this trip has filled our lives with such happiness. We do not leave with our suitcases filled with souvenirs, but with memories for a lifetime.
Travel makes you smarter, and yes, you must learn to adjust, try new things, enjoy the cultures and the journey.
Arrivederci, Sorrento; we are sad to say good-bye!
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Jeni
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Safe travels tomorrow. You had beautiful view from your apartment and always a source of entertainment. You got to truly live as Italians (rather than living with one, lol) for 45 days and eat amazing food and drink! Arrivederci Sorrento, Bonjour Paris!