A French Connection - Marseille, April 2023

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Whenever this French port city is mentioned, Gene Hackman portraying Popeye Doyle in “The French Connection” immediately comes to mind, with visions of criminals roaming the docks - but nothing could be further from the truth. For sure this no doubt exists in the French underworld, but grit and grandeur coexist seamlessly in Marseille, an exuberantly multicultural port city with a pedigree stretching back to classical Greece, with a fair claim for wearing the mantle of France’s second biggest city. Once seen as dirty and dangerous and lacking the glamour of Cannes or St. Tropez, this black sheep of the Provencal coastline has blossomed in cultural confidence since its 2013 stint as the European Capital of Culture. The addition of a brace of swanky new museums is just an outward sign of optimism among the locals that’s almost palpable.

Given that France is currently in an uproar due to Macron’s recent decision to up the retirement age, it has made getting around somewhat difficult, even here many miles from Paris. Traffic is snarled; sidewalks are crowded with chanting protestors – do I have a great travel life or what? But nothing stops this intrepid traveler and if I have to cover the area via ankle express (aka on both feet), then so be it. I often find myself in the middle of some upheaval or other, but that makes my adventures that much more interesting and enjoyable!

The heart of this city is the vibrant Vieux Port (Old Port), mast-to-mast with yachts, pleasure boats and cruise ships. Vessels have docked here for millennia and while the commercial docks were transferred to the Joliette area in the 1840s, the Old Port remains a thriving harbor for fishing boats and, of course, tourists by the boatload (no pun intended). Guarded by the forts of St. Jean and St. Nicholas, both sides of the port are dotted with bars, brasseries, and cafes, with more to be found around Place Thiars and Cours Honore d’Estienne, where the evening action continues until the wee hours. For the mobility-challenged (or simply exhausted) sightseers, there’s also a cross-port ferry.

For readers of the classics (of which I’m one) plan a visit to Chateau d’lf, the island-fortress guarding access to Marseille’s Vieux Port. This photogenic fort was immortalized in Alexandre Dumas’ 1844 classic “The Count of Monte Cristo”. Many political prisoners were incarcerated here, including the Revolutionary hero Mirabeau and the Communards of 1871. Other than the island itself, there’s not a great deal to see, but it’s worth visiting if only for the stunning views of the Vieux Port. There is a local ferry service which runs boats from Quai de la Fraternite about a dozen times a day. To appreciate the big picture, walk around the entire horseshoe from star-shaped Fort St. Nicholas on the southern side, to Fort St. Jean on the northern. On Quai des Belges, you can snap funky photos of local life reflected in Sir Norman Foster’s giant mirrored canopy, cut from a panel of polished stainless steel, and suspended dramatically above the waterfront quay as a hybrid sunshade-art installation.

Just to the west of the Vieux Port lies Abbaye St. Victor, the birthplace of Christianity in Marseille, built on a 3^rd century BC necropolis. Check out the crypts here with guided tours available from 4pm to 6pm Tuesdays and Thursdays (or spare your feet and download a virtual “tour” from www.saintvictor.net).

For a touch of artsy-fartsy atmosphere, head over to Marseille’s most vibrant bohemian quarter on Cours Julien, an elongated concrete square shaded by palm trees. It’s lined with great bars, cafes and music venues, and its street-art slathered side streets are home to a wealth of bookshops, galleries, tattoo parlors and ethnic restaurants. Markets are held in the square on different days of the week: flowers on Wednesdays and Saturdays, antique books alternate Saturdays, and stamps or antique books on Sundays.

For those with limited time to explore this city, give serious thought to hiring a guide. On a tour, you get to delve into the architecture, street air, football, stairs with sea views and hidden city corners, which are among the varied themes explored with local volunteer guides on walking tours. One of the best is Marseille Provence Greeters offering two-hour free tours (donations are always gratefully accepted), which can be booked directly online and presents a golden opportunity to chat and learn with a local.

With its electric street life, intoxicating potpourri of diverse neighborhoods and chaotic port, this ancient Greek trading post on the Med offers endless things to see and do. But the pace of life is bold, brazen and full-throttle - escaping the city on a day trip can be a breath of fresh air, especially for those tourists who have “been there, done that” when it comes to Marseille. Whether it’s an elegant getaway to Aix; a gourmet break amid seaside vineyards; or a cheap romantic flit to some of the most beautiful wild beaches in Provence, there are plenty of places to go in the surrounding areas. The following five suggestions are all within an hour of Marseille’s city center and reached by bus, train or e-bike - no car required.

Consider a swim in the pristine coves of Les Calanques, a string of clandestine coves and the wild swimming beaches which bejewel the rocky coastline southeast of Marseille. Most are only accessible on foot or by sea, ensuring an untouched pristine environment when Bonelli eagles soar overhead, and Europe’s largest lizards slink around in relative peace. Catch glimpses of the rich flora and fauna at Calanque de Sormiou or Calanque de Morgiou. Both are easily reached by public transport and boast a restaurant for a great lunch (reservations here are essential!). The rugged hiking trail linking the two coves is approximately 2.5 miles in length and provides stunning ocean views.

Go wine tasting in the pretty fishing village of Cassis, with its gin-clear waters, white cliff-cradled coves, and views of rocky Cap Canaille. Cassis is straight out of a picture book so think about sipping an aperitif on a café terrace, overlooking clinking yacht masts or over the catch of the day at the harbor-side fishmonger restaurant Poissonnerie Laurent - all will appear well with the world. Exploring pea-green vineyards ribboning Cassis hillsides has an equally inviting effect. The village is among France’s oldest wine appellations and is the only one to lie within a national park. In the 1920s Virginia Woolf and other writers from London’s Bloomsbury Set summered here, penning novels and drinking copious amounts of Cassis White. Tasting opportunities abound in the village and several wineries welcome visitors. The tourist office can suggest wine tasting itineraries by electric bike.

Visit Arles on a market day and learn about the Romans and Van Gogh. Saturday is a good day to visit this small town with its morning market of about 400 street stalls and is considered one of Provence’s best. Trestle tables groan with Camargue salt, rice, fresh goat cheese, air-dried bull-meat sausage, lavender honey and heaps of seasonal fruit and vegetables. Top-notch art and history also beckons - explore thrillingly intact terraces and galleries at Arles’ oval-shaped Roman amphitheater and learn about local Roman history at the Musee Departemental Arles Antique, next to the hippodrome where Romans races their chariots. When the need for munchies hits, break for coffee, pastis, or lavender ice-cream (it’s to die for!) on any café terrace. Spend an afternoon with Vincent Van Gogh on a self-guided walking tour - the Dutch post-impressionist artist painted more than 200 canvases while living in Arles in 1888. If time allows, the new arts center designed by Frank Gehry, Luma Arles is sensational. After dark, grab a chair and watch a magical concert unfold beneath summer stars in the semi-ruined Theatre Antique.

Embrace the slow life in the old-world fishing village of Les Goudes and I would recommend saving this easy trip for a day when the pandemonium of metropolitan Marseille simply gets to be too much. This mellow hamlet slumbers on the southern fringe of the city and that first glimpse of apricot-and-ochre hued fishing cottages with sea-blue paintwork cradled around a cove, is instant balm for the soul. Here you can meander down quiet car-free lanes, hunt down hidden street art and watch the fishermen at work. Come lunchtime, follow the uber-cool Marseille crowd to eco-conscious beach club Tuba, with a cocktail bar and restaurant decorated as a 1960s diving club. No sea view is more peaceful than from a table perched on the rocks. Another good food choice is lunch at the 1920s icon Le Grand Bar des Goudes - its bouillabaisse (local fish stew) is renowned. After lunch, follow the coastal path to a cluster of fishing cabins and seaside shacks in Calleongue, nicknamed “le bout du monde” (end of the world). From here, Raskas Kayak runs sea-kayaking treks along the coast. Continue walking for about a mile to Calanque de Marseilleveyre with its hidden shingle beach, backed by aloe succulents and spiky barbary figs - don’t forget your swimsuit!

And finally, enjoy food and culture in elegant Aix-en-Provence. Meet Marseille’s handsome archrival which is meticulously stitched from aristocratic 17^th and 18^th century mansions, tree-shaded boulevards, and moss-laced stone fountains. This polished town is a riveting antithesis to gritty Marseille. Ever since the Romans tapped into war thermal springs here in Aquae Sextia, living well has been the mantra of this university town, culture hub, and foodie destination. Dive in with a slow, indulgent stroll along Aix’s main avenue Cours Mirabeau. Dip south into the Quartier Mazarin, awash with baroque squares and sculpted fountains since the 17^th century: four dolphins spout water on Place des Quatre Dauphins. Take a couple of hours at least, to dedicate yourself to browsing masterpieces by Picasso, Leger, Matisse, Monet, Van Gogh, and Aix-born Paul Cezanne in the peerless Musee Granet. How does lunch consisting of black truffles, asparagus, lamb shank slow-cooked in jus au thym and other seasonal Provencal dishes sound? Consider visiting the summer garden at Jardin Mazarin. Don’t leave Aix without grabbing a box of calissons (petal-shaped almond and melon sweet bites) from historic confectioner Le Roy Rene for the journey home.

I’m staying in the port area and using my favorite mode of sightseeing transportation - the HOHO bus (what else is new - I always do this). Known here as Colorbus Marseille, a one-day ticket for $21.04 covers two bus routes (red with 14 bus stops, and blue with 11) across the entire city. With the open-air upper deck, this fun and extensive sightseeing activity allows a discovery of culture and beauty at your own pace. My advice, for what it’s worth, is to get a first impression of the city by riding the entire route and make note of the sites you want to explore in more detail. Then begin a second circle and alight at the stops closest to the monuments and districts that have caught your fancy for deeper exploration.
Discover the city as the people of Marseille know it, full of authenticity and richness.

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Comments

[D MJ Binkley]

Lovely photo
Wow, scenic!