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Published: April 1st 2023
It stands at attention guarding the entrance to the Mediterranean - the towering 3-mile-long limestone ridge rises to a height of about 1,398’, with cliffs on the northern and eastern sides. This marvel of nature holds a particularly impressive distinction of being one of the best-known massive outcroppings on the planet. Its renown doesn’t end there, though. This stunning example of the works of nature also holds a particular importance for another reason - a significant portion of the upper area forms a special Nature Reserve. This small reserve, along with the indigenous flora, fauna, and geology of the region, remain enormous tourist favorites even today. It stood out in the minds of mankind in the distant past as well. The mighty Gibraltar Rock held roles of importance going back as far as ancient times when Phoenician and Greek sailors named it one of the Pillars of Hercules and believed it to mark the end of the known world. The Romans later knew of the astonishingly impressive natural site and called it Mons Calpe.
Red post boxes, fish-and-chip shops and creaky 1970s seaside hotels, Gibraltar - as British writer Laurie Lee once commented - is a piece of Portsmouth sliced
off and towed 500 miles south. “The Rock” really does overstate its Britishness, a bonus for pub-grub and afternoon tea lovers, but a confusing double take for modern Brits who thought the days of Lord Nelson memorabilia were long gone. Poised strategically at the jaws of Europe and Africa, Gibraltar with its Palladian architecture and camera-hogging Barbary macaques, makes an interesting break from the white towns of bordering Cadiz province. Playing an admirable supporting role is the swashbuckling local history; the Rock has been British a lot longer than the United States has been American! The locals speak English, Spanish and a curiously accented, singsong mix of the two, swapping words in mid-sentence but thankfully, the street signs are in English. The famous Barbary macaques (often erroneously identified as apes - they are not), have roamed the Rock for hundreds of years, and are Europe’s only wild monkeys. Although free to wander where they wish, they are generally seen on the Upper Rock. The macaques were once protected by the British Army stationed in Gibraltar and, according to legend, British dominion over the Rock will cease when these animals are no longer present. Their protection is now the responsibility of
the Gibraltar Ornithological and Natural History Society, which provides fresh food and water daily to supplement whatever they forage in the wild.
A Little Bit of History: Its name is derived from the Arabic “
Jabal Tariq” (Mount Tarik) honoring Tariq ibn Ziyad who captured the peninsula in 711 AD. Spain has made several attempts to take Gibraltar from Britain over the years, most notably in a protracted but unsuccessful military siege that lasted from 1779 to 1783, now known as
The Great Siege. In 1830 Gibraltar became a British Crown colony. Being a heavily fortified British air and naval base guarding the Strait of Gibraltar, it has been a symbol of British naval strength since the 18
th century. With the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869, Gibraltar increased in strategic importance, and its position as a provisioning port was greatly enhanced. Legend has it that the Rock is one of the two Pillars of Hercules - the other being Mount Hacho near the city of Ceuta (a Spanish enclave on the Moroccan coast). According to Homer, the Pillars were created when Hercules broke the mountain that had originally connected Africa and Europe in the ancient Mediterranean world.
The
Rock defines Gibraltar. The shape of it, instantly recognizable as you arrive by air or ship, dictates the layout of the community that has formed in this British enclave at the tip of Spain.
The city clusters around the western edge of the territory where the land is relatively flat. On the edge of it, the sudden and steep incline of the Rock itself is visible from almost every vantage point. It dominates the landscape. It’s not inert, this Rock. It is not a useless physical obstacle that Gibraltar merely works around. It has been integrated into history, into the culture. It holds some of the territory’s greatest natural treasures and has been a natural defense to protect it from attackers. If not for the Rock, Gibraltar would not be what it is today. It has stopped countless attempted invasions that would have led to another administration, another influence, another course of history.
For the visitors today who thankfully don’t have to fight their way in, the Rock offers many of the highlights of a trip to Gibraltar. The Rock is welcoming and generous to those it sees as friends. While the city itself and the
coastline are also important parts of a visit to Gibraltar, let’s concentrate on the Rock itself - you may be surprised about the opportunities it presents.
The Moorish Castle - this large brick construction on the lower part of the Rock was built in 1333 AD (over the top of an older castle) by the Moors who controlled much of the Iberian Peninsula at this point in history. It formed part of the defenses that these Arab conquerors had constructed to protect themselves from the attacks of Western European forces. The Moorish castle would have been much larger than the area that can be seen today, due to damage over the centuries since it was built.
The best-preserved section is the Tower of Homage which you can go inside and climb to the top of. It has great views across the city. Entrance to the Moorish Castle is included in the ticket required to get into the Upper Rock Nature Reserve.
WWII Tunnels - It’s hard to imagine when you look at it from the outside, but the Rock of Gibraltar actually has more than 31 miles of tunnels inside. Most of these were created during the
Second World War using hand tools. In the early stages of the war, the British were worried that Germany would attack this strategic territory and the plan was to accommodate tens of thousands of troops in the tunnels in preparation. Although this never came to pass, the tunnels were used for other purposes like a hospital. You can’t see most of the tunnels, but you can take a guided tour for about an hour and see some of the highlights. It’s quite an incredible sight to see where people lived deep in the rocks for months on end. There is an extra charge for admission, but it is definitely worth it.
City Under Siege - The small museum just up the hill from the WWII tunnels is in one of the first buildings the British constructed in Gibraltar at the start of the 18
th century. The museum is free to enter and has no staff on hand. There is just a small exhibition showing what life was like for the residents of the territory during the long siege in the 1700s by the French and Spanish forces.
Great Siege Tunnels - Two centuries before the British built the
WWII tunnels as a defense of Gibraltar, they built a much smaller networks of tunnels which are now known as the “Great Siege Tunnels”. The Great Siege lasted from 1779 to 1783 as French and Spanish troops blockaded Gibraltar in an attempt to claim it for themselves. The tunnels were built into the rock so that holes could be made in the cliffs to mount guns. In the end, it was a decisive element in the victory for the British. The Great Siege Tunnels are much more polished for tourists than the WWII Tunnels, which are still quite raw. The experience here is simple and can be done without a guide. The length of the main tunnels has small exhibitions and displays explaining the history and different features. Entrance to the Great Siege Tunnels is included in the ticket required to get into the Upper Rock Nature Reserve.
St. Michael’s Cave - St Michael’s Cave is a true natural wonder and is definitely worth the visit. The main hall of the cave is enormous and has been converted into an auditorium for performances with a capacity of about 400 people. From this section, there are stairs and pathways which
allow you to explore other parts of the cave complex. It clearly stretches much further than you can visit and there is even a theory that it connects to a tunnel that you can use to reach Morocco. Although it only takes 20 minutes or so to walk through the cave complex, you could spend much longer looking at all the different sections in detail. A light display continually changes colors in the main hall area. Entrance to St Michael’s Cave is included in the ticket required to get into the Upper Rock Nature Reserve.
Mediterranean Steps - here’s a hidden gem on the Rock and not visited by most tourists. This is partly because you need a moderate level of fitness to explore them properly. Essentially, this site is a path that has been constructed along the southern and eastern edges of the reserve. It is a rough path and requires climbing up some very steep steps in parts – but the views are spectacular. As well as some wonderful angles of the cliffs, you can get up close with some of the flora and fauna of the territory. The path starts at the Jews Gate and takes
about 2 hours to do a return journey. Entrance to the Mediterranean Steps is included in the ticket required to get into the Upper Rock Nature Reserve. There’s lots to see and lots to learn and to get the most out of your time exploring the Rock of Gibraltar, consider taking a guided tour - there are some great options offered in town.
Apes’ Den - The “apes” (they’re actually macaques) are hard to avoid when you visit the Rock and are the most iconic of the animal species that live here. However, I’m still not quite sure why there is a particular spot on the Rock that has been designated as their home, seeing as they roam freely all over the area. They can be cheeky and even aggressive, and you do need to take heed of the warnings not to carry food near them. I saw one of the macaques jump onto the back of a woman and pull a sandwich out of her hand. It’s not really necessary to visit the Apes’ Den and you’ll probably see them at one of the other sights – especially around St Michael’s Cave.
Some Odd Facts About Gibraltar: · The road into Gibraltar gets closed every time a plane lands at the territory’s airport. Why? Well because the road into town is also the runway! This runway basically runs the whole width of Gibraltar alongside the Spanish border, and you can walk right across it when there no planes in the vicinity.
· There is a legend that there is a secret natural tunnel from Gib to Morocco and it’s accessible from deep inside St. Michael’s Cave. Who knows if this is true, but there are all sorts of stories of people going missing down in the caves and never being seen again. Another version of this legend says that the apes came from Africa through a tunnel. While it’s true they probably originated in Africa, it’s much more likely they came on boats with some early explorers.
· If you suddenly decide to elope and get hitched, then Gib is the place for you! Fly in one day and lodge your papers - you can marry the next day - it is recognized worldwide. For this reason, it has been very popular with celebrities, for example Sean Connery did it twice and John Lennon and Yoko One tied the knot here as well, on March 20, 1969. This is now becoming so popular with tourists; local authorities allow marriages outside the registry office in the nearby botanical gardens.
· There is basically no tax on goods here - pretty fantastic, right? You will see crowds buying cigarettes and booze by the boatload at the shops on the way out of the country. It’s almost worth the airfare/cruise cost to stock up on alcohol!
· The United Nations asked the inhabitants in 1967 if they wanted to remain British or be returned to Spain. Talk about a landslide victory: a resounding 112,138 votes were in favor of Britain, with only 44 unhappy locals voting for Spain.
· Local folklore tells of Britain only retaining ownership of the Rock, so long as the Barbary Apes remain. Apparently, at one point during World War II, Winston Churchill brought in some ape reinforcements from North Africa, to ensure the head count remained high. Considering a similar legend applies to the ravens at the Tower of London, what’s next? It boggles the mind.
· “Solid as a Rock” saying was inspired by the Rock of Gibraltar. Although attacked many times while under British rule, none have been able to destroy it.
One “must-see” event is what tourists the world over visit London to watch – Gibraltar being a second location for
The Changing of the Guard. This daily occurrence held outside the Governor’s official residence, brings pomp and circumstance which the Brits do so well. The Royal Gibraltar Regiment wearing their brilliant red coats, perform the ceremony. Get there early and grab a ring-side seat!
Final thoughts: currency is the pound sterling (GBP) but taxi drivers here will accept US Dollars. There are no tourist information offices available, so do your research prior to arrival.
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