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Published: November 10th 2017
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Typical Bridge in the Himalayas
We can only assume people don't have much faith in the structures Geo: 31.639, 77.3406
We are now heading towards Manali, yep and not just because its an old hippy hangout. We need to pass it on our way to the Spiti Valley where we hope the snow has not come in yet and we can visit some remote Monasteries and get some apple pie.The area is fairly remote so we fill up the pantry and the diesel tanks and head up the road pretty excited about visiting a remote Buddhist Monastery quite famous. Well we get about five kilometres up the road and there is a police check post. We generally approach by waiving so we confuse them then street attacking through. This is the safest way in India however this policemen seemed very intent on stopping us so we pull over. Show me your permit...hmm really we need a permit. After arguing for about 10minutes it was clear we were not getting past so we head back to Manali looking for the Sub Division of the Magistrates Office with rough directions in Hindi/English. When we get there we discover the Government of Himachel Pradesh (the state we are in) passed a law that cars older than 10years were not permitted to cross
Camped on the edge of a cliff
This village carpark was the only flat land for many miles. Had to do us for the night, fortunately we were invited into one of the locals homes and provided dinner. Bonus as we arrived very late, it was dark and in the morning the view down the cliff was dramatic the Rohtang Pass. This is the one you see on the "most dangerous roads show". Now given our registration papers clearly show the year of manufacture 2002, the court official quickly did the maths and so no. Really we were shocked.. lots of pondering, arguments lead to no permit.Interestingly this is the second time Darren and I have been stopped on this road. The first time was excess snow closed the road, now new legislation passed a couple of years ago. It would seem we are just not supposed to cross the Rohtang Pass.
So a little despondent we head back down the hill too do battle with the traffic. Now we don't like to whinge too much in this blog but India's roads are beyond description at the best of times. Unfortunately for us this is a Sunday and there is some kind of road rally on. Now the roads are not closed for such an event as we would in Aus so we have the pleasure of crazy Indians flying at us in hotted up cars, bikes and even on hotted up scooters. Seriously scary stuff. The Turban Toppers, commonly referred to as Shiks are the crazy's of India...
Road construction Himalayan Style
Bitumen is heated in 44 gal drums and laid by hand. It is no wonder the roads don't last. These guys live in temporary tents on the roads, shear drop off the side. and behind the wheel of a Rally car was almost too much. Good news is the Queen Mary is unscathed so all is good.
Plan B.. short cut across the back roads of the Himalayas and head to Gangatori. This is one of the most spiritual places in India so surely someone there will have the answers to what we are all doing here.
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Juliet
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Hope you get your apple pie soon!!