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Published: October 23rd 2005
Managed, for the first time alone, to actually get on the right bus without problems. Only when i got on it absolutely STANK of people thoroughly enjoying themselves (you know what i mean, Mum) I wanted to cut my nose off. Anyway, off we went - there was a group of young travellers infront of me, obviously heading for Salta too. I think they were speaking Hebrew. Those Israelis get everywhere. The countryside after leaving Tucuman was so beautiful, rolling green hills with lots of green vegetation and cacti, and in the background those towering snow capped mountains. Sometimes the land flattened out again, sometimes it was more hilly, but always with the spectacular mountains in the distance. Occasionally i saw huge birds of prey, but not being the best ornithologist in the world, i couldnt tell you what they were. Soon we were winding our way round the feet of hills, brown with leafless trees. We passed through a gap in the hills and there it was - Salta sprawled on a plain below us, much bigger than i'd thought, completely surrounded by mountains.
I got to the hostel and was shown around, really nice place, bit of a rabbit warren. FINALLY met people who spoke English! Such a relief. In my room was a Dutch girl called Marleen, an American called Dru, and a lovely English girl called Laura. Went and chatted on the terrace with some hungover people then went with Marleen and an Israeli guy to the Cerro San Bernardo, and the mirador there - a hill which overlooks the city. It was so so hot, it was unbearable. Amazing view over the city, but my camera decided to suddenly rewind itself just as i was getting it out of my bag. Not impressed. Went back to the hostel and got well confused over what i wanted to do - the horse guy i'd been recommended wasnt answering his phone, and Laura and some other girls were doing exactly what i wanted to do - go up to the border to cross into Bolivia the next day. I was a bit sick of always being on my own, and i really wanted to go with them, but i really wanted to see the Quebrada de Cafayate - a route down to Cafayate that was strikingly beautiful due to weird rock formations with multicoloured layers. I decided to stay another day at least, Dru was crossing the border Sunday - but in a different place - and i said i'd go with her. She'd been living in Bolivia for 2 years as a peacecorp volunteer. I figured i could arrange horseriding in Ecuador, and booked a tour in town to do the Quebrada and visit Cafayate. I strolled around the centre - i LOVE Salta, its so full of life, i wish i had more time here but then id only spend money partying every night. The towns so European - everyone was sitting at outside tables in the square with their drinks, people strolling down the streets in the warmth of the early evening, the fierce heat of the day gone. I walked home, sweaty and greasy and feeling like a fat British girl - not attractive in the slightest. But god bless those South American men, i got countless cries of 'beautiful' and 'gorgeous girl!' etc, one man even going so far as 'hey, beautiful, you look like an angel, baby'. Of course i didnt (see above) but i am always grateful for the compliments when im feeling shit!
Went back to the hostel, had a shower and went up to the terrace for some drinks with the girls in my room, soon joined by loads of people - so many weird and wonderful characters - Alex from Dublin and Shane from Melbourne who came as a comedy duo, Chris from South Africa, John from London...the list goes on and on. I saw Jose but he was talking to a spanish guy, and i was so grateful to be able to hold a conversation in English we left each other to it. I was really enjoying myself with the first alcohol ive tasted in a week when i realised it was 1, and i had to be up in 6 hours for my tour, so i reluctantly called it a night. I was picked up the next day by our guide, Noel, then a Korean woman and a couple from BA (how i miss that city!) We drove until we were passing right through the mountains. They were unbelievable. There were so many different heights and shapes they seemed to overlap. They had spectacular formations, some jagged like termite hills, others with curved holes and gaps, one with so many grooves and smooth potholes, it looked like the surface of a natural sponge. But it was the colours that were so astounding - the bright green and dark green of the trees, then the browns and burnt reds and ornages and pinks of the rocks - so many colours all on one mountainside, some of it in blocks of colour, or in layers so straight they looked like god had done it with a ruler! We stopped many times to take pictures. We reached Cafayate and went to the oldest bodega in the region, followed by the youngest. Then we were dropped off in town at the plaza for a couple of free hours. I didnt really want to have to sit down by myself for a meal (the group had dispersed) so i did the usual 'ice cream in the plaza'. gotta get out of that habit or i'll balloon. Cafayates a lovely little town, quiet and clean and pretty.
We made our way back, all of us sleeping in the car. Noel dropped me off at the hostel (such a nice guy) and i went to the asado they were putting on. It was so much fun, with folklore music after. Met a new guy, Tony from France, but his parents were English. He'd lived in France all his life until going to Bath uni, so he was bilingual. Plus i met....two sisters from Newcastle!!! Maggie and Julie - we got very merry, singing Newcastle songs and exclaiming we were in the majority. Had such a great night, ended up staying up till 5am just chatting to Alex. Got up and checked out, went with Dru to get tickets to the border. She was able to get one straight through to San Lorenzo, so i decided to just go by myself to La Quiaca. Came back then hired bikes with Tony to go for a ride out of town. It was a bit farcical, his pedal came off, my strap broke on my helmet (yes, mum, i wore a walnut - i even took a pic of me in it for you) my knees started killing, we had to walk half the way, i had to tow Tony half the way home.and it started raining, but did loads of exercise - thin Emily, here i come! Came back and chilled at the hostel before catching my bus to La Quiaca even managed to get the money back for the bikes! Its going to be a nightmare couple of days doing nothing but travelling, pray for me!
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louise(couz)
non-member comment
Hey girlie, been catching up with the latest sounds stunning, wish i was there hey ho my time will come. can't wait to see all your pics...... i'll be waiting:) lots of love lou xoxoxoxoxox