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Published: January 29th 2008
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Tango - La Boca mural
Buenos Aires, Argentina Argentina
After we were “WOWed” by the enormous icebergs of Antarctica, we went on to be “WOWed” by the enormous steaks of Argentina! Any country that offers huge, juicy steaks paired with a bottle of Malbec for under $10 has my approval! Luckily, we had the company of friends for a few more days while in Buenos Aires where we set about to see some of the city’s many highlights. We toured Recoleta Cemetery, the resting place of Eva Peron along with many other rich and famous Argentineans. It’s a beautiful cemetery that charts history with intriguing architecture, statutes and carvings. Other wanderings in Buenos Aires led us to bohemian San Telmo where Tango reigns king (or queen!). In fact, Tango is experiencing such a renaissance that it is fanning out around the world. While in Ecuador, Jason and I met a Norwegian woman who was planning on opening a Tango-only shoe shop in Norway! Also in San Telmo, you can meander for hours at the Sunday antiques market where you might find an ornate, crystal chandelier displayed next to a collection of vintage license plates (which Debba loves!). We loved perusing all the antique seltzer bottle displays. In fact, if
the weight and breakability weren’t an issue, Jackie and I might just have a garage full of them right now! Another charming area of Buenos Aires is La Boca, famous for its colorful houses clad in corrugated metal. Here we drifted amongst the artists and their remarkable creations (if I only had more wall space!). For Jason’s and my birthdays (gosh, I love where we end up for our b-days!), we strolled about hip Palermo peeking into funky shops and enjoying a great birthday lunch punctuated with wine and gifts (Thank you, peeps!). The set-up of Buenos Aires affords much walking - - we were able to explore the historical buildings and plazas of the city center while enjoying the vast network of parks and open green spaces, all on foot.
Jason and I can’t go to a country without making a stop at its wine region - - in Argentina, that’s Mendoza, now becoming famous for its very inexpensive Malbecs.
Argentina is the 5th biggest wine producer in the world, trailing only France, Italy, Spain and the United States, if you were curious. Argentinean winemakers have traditionally been more interested in quantity than quality and the country actually still
Gloves
Antique market of San Telmo consumes 90% of the wine it produces! However, the desire to increase exports fueled significant advances in quality resulting in the inexpensive, tasty Malbecs we can now all easily purchase at home in the U.S. Even though Malbecs get all the press, Argentina produces some other terrific grapes including some great Cabernet Sauvignons and Syrahs, which Jason and I gladly sampled. One day we explored the wineries on bikes (Bikes n’ Vines!) - - trying our best to try and work off some of the grape calories! Another day, we took the more civilized (yes, lazier!) semi-private guided tour of more of the wineries. Of course, the other couple with us was from San Francisco - small world! We also enjoyed wine at Mendoza’s many lovely wine bars and restaurants. When a decent bottle of wine is under $5 in a restaurant - - we feel it is our duty to have one! Argentina boasts many natural wonders, one of the most impressive being Iguazu Falls. Imagine that these waterfalls are so massive (taller than Niagara Falls) and there are so many (over 275!) that they have to straddle TWO countries, Argentina and Brazil!! The Brazilian view is said to
be more panoramic whereas you can actually get closer to the Falls in Argentina. As expected, the waterfalls were colossal, breathtaking, and powerful (i.e., One of them is aptly named, “Devil’s Throat!“). There was an abundance of wildlife in Iguazu Park; crocodiles, colorful birds such as Toucans (yes, like Froot Loops!), a plethora of butterflies, and scurrying capybaras (holding the title of biggest rodents in the world!). My only regret of Argentina is I fell in love with a stray dog in Iguazu Falls that I nicknamed Dulce de Leche…I should have brought him home. Maybe I’ll find myself on a “rescue flight” one of these days.
Uruguay
A quick ferry ride from Buenos Aires plants you in Uruguay. I felt like I was back living in New England where in only a few hours you can be in a different state (in this case, a different country!) . Once in Uruguay, we wandered the city of Colonia del Sacramento. Uruguay was previously known as the “Switzerland of South America,” a title earned due to its historically high level of economic development, stable government and social welfare. In 1973, the armed forces seized power creating mass chaos. This along
Wow!
Costumes in Rio de Janiero with the collapse of Uruguay’s lucrative beef and wool export market, Uruguay is still making its way back. Although, when you visit historic Colonia, you do feel the tranquility of times past. With the cobblestone streets, tree-lined boulevards, cute shops tucked in undiscovered nooks and an abundance of outdoor cafes for sippin’ cool beverages, it was a winning combination. We strolled Colonia’s historic district with Plaza Mayor, took in the views from El Faro Lighthouse, and watched the woodpeckers go to work in the park trees. With Colonia situated along the Río de la Plata, with its direct access to the Atlantic Ocean, we spent the afternoon watching the local kids try their hand at fishin’ and, of course, Jackie did not pass up an opportunity to perfect her rock-skipping abilities.
As we boarded the ferry, the sun was setting - - a beautiful good-bye to our beautiful day in Uruguay.
Brazil
Caipirinhas, churrascarias, mile long beaches - - welcome to Brazil! We spent one day viewing the magnificent Falls from the Brazilian side, Foz do Iguacu. An added bonus of the Brazilian side of the Falls was the abundance of coatimundis, a very curious member of the raccoon
Rainbow & Falls
Iguazu Falls National Park, Brazil family, roaming the park and trying to grab some loot from Jason’s backpack!
Our South American journey began with a very long bus journey and, appropriately, would end with one as well - - Iguazu Falls to Rio de Janiero in 20+ hours! We boarded the bus deciphering Spanish and arrived needing to decode Portuguese. We roamed Rio de Janiero taking in some of the sights and sounds of this vibrant 11.7+ million person city. We stayed along one of Rio’s famous beaches, Ipanema…just up the coast from Copacabana Beach. In addition to the beaches, we visited many of Rio’s most famous sights including the immediately recognizable giant statue atop Corcovado Mountain, Christ the Redeemer. This statue was built to commemorate 100 years of Brazilian independence and has recently been voted one of the “New Seven Wonders of the World.” Other highlights included a cable car ride that delivered us to the panoramic views from Sugarloaf Mountain, catching a glimpse of the Sambodromo, the parade area used during Carnaval, and exploring Maracana, Rio’s famous futbol (soccer) stadium and home of the 2014 World Cup. We were fortunate enough to attend a soccer match at Maracana. As you can guess, the
Christ the Redeemer
Rio de Janiero, Brazil “experience” of the game was as exciting, if not more, as the actual game. The matches start hours in advance with much revelry and “tailgating” in the streets, whopping sausage dogs sizzling on the grills, giant beers being gulped down…inside, the enthusiastic (neurotic!) fans are a thrill to watch - the overall energy and buzz is contagious. No trip to Rio is complete without a little taste of Carnaval-like entertainment. We attended a folkloric music and samba dance show giving us a small glimpse into the amazing music, costumes and dance performances that take place every February during Carnaval.
Despite all the city thrills and wonders it is hard to ignore the darker side of this Brazilian city…the favelas (slums) of Rio - - numbering over 700 and comprising over 1/3 of Rio’s population. With just the sheer numbers, you see favela settlements dotting every hillside in Rio. With all the glamour - - you just have to keep perspective that Rio is indeed a big city with big city challenges and struggles. Nonetheless, I can’t wait to come back to raise my Caipirinha glass and say, “Saude!” (Cheers!)
Next stop: Europe
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