On to the Coast

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Wednesday 11.03.09 (continued)
´Had no luck changing travellers cheques - only cash is king here (dollars or euros - not pounds). The day was turning out to be a waste of time, waiting around for Luis to organise a tour which eventually didn´t materialise. However Teresa, the teacher I met in the Post Office the previous day, met up with me and took me for a tour around the town and along the Orinoco. She was a mine of information on the history of the place. We saw the people who live permantly under black plastic sheeting along the river banks, who eek out a livlihood from fishing. The dredging of the river and the reclaimation of the land provided some area for people to settle. She told me about the indigenous Warrao people who live on some of the islands in the river. Again their livilihood is through fishing. They marry young (12-14), have many children and husband/wife stay faithful throughout life. Childbirth takes place in the river and children learn to swim beore they can walk. This contrasts with the growing trend on the mainland, where more and more men are unfaithful leaving the women to bring up the childre as singel parents. As the rain started to come down heavily we dashed for a place to eat and had a traditional dish of seasoned meat & chicken with fried figs with a salad of palmito (the heart of the palm tree), lettuce and peppers - very tasty! I had an early night as I wanted to make a quick getaway in the morning.

Thursday 12.03.09
Went for a early breakfast in the local cafe, which I had to wait to open. I had their first freshly cooked empanada with chicken filling and jugo durazna (peach juice). ´Got a taxi to the terminal where I just caught the 8:10 bus to Maturin - I needed to change there for Puerto La Cruz. No official buses going to P.La Cruz so ´had to pay nearly 7 times my fare to Maturin as it was a private company. Someone said the Gov. buses were on strike in Maturin. Just outside P. La Cruz we ran into v. heavy traffic so the bus pulled in and we were transferred to another smaller one - old and v. dirty! Traffic was by now almost at a standstill. Many goods and drinks peddlers were weaving their way through the traffic touting their wares - everything from juices to knives, from sunshades for windscreens to lego! When we eventually arrived at the terminal I walked to the hotel as it was only four blocks away. However, what a disappointment when I got there; the place was being gutted internally. The manager led me to a room amid the clouds of cement dust and rubble. When I saw the room I could only smile and say "no thank you". It had a cat asleep on the bed, dirty and no natural light. I tried another hotel further down the road but it was full. They recommended the Hotel Europa - not as grand as it sounds - where they wanted 110 BVS for a small room with a shared bathroom. They would only take cash, I said I would need to change some travellers cheques. The manager told me a place nearby which would change them, so I left my rucksack there and looked for the place. Just outside the place I was approached by a guy who asked if I had any dollars to change and offered a good rate. I had a few remaining dollars so thought I´d change them. However when I was transacting he distracted my attention, turned and ran into the crowd with my money. I tried to keep up with him but lost him among the crowd. Some people around me who saw what happened wanted to call the police, but others said not to because I would only get into trouble myself for using the black market. So I cut my losses and put it down to experience -fortunately it was ony a small amount. Some good did come out of it as I met an owner of a hospedaje who would change a travellers cheque at a reasonable rate. I transferred my luggage to the hospedaje and stayed there for the night. The events of the day left a bitter taste in my mouth and a lesson for caution in the future. I found a good restaurant along the seafront just up from the hospedaje where I had some grilled chicken & chips before retiring to bed.

Friday 13.03.09
Up early, as the air con packed up during the night and it was very humid.After a shower ´went for a walk along the beach; not really a nice one as there was a lot of litter around. Apart from a few early joggers it was empty of people. ´Found a cafe just off Plaza Bolivar and had my usual for breeakfast - peach juice and an empanada. ´Caught the minibus collectivo from outside the terminal to Santa Fe. The driver´s assistant tied down my rucksack on the roofrack as there was no room inside. It was another old vehicle which had been adapted for public use - some of the side windows were missing and bolts were welded on to some of the doors tosecure them from the inside. On teh journey I noticed a lady in front of me who had some clothes catalogues and a fashion magazine which she was flipping through. All of the models (male and female) in the books were white, even though the lady was llike the majority of Venezuelans. I thought back to the soaps and advertisement I saw on TV - an all white cast and characters, not representative of the Venezuelan population; does the typical Venezuelan have an image problem?
We climbed high in the minibus and passed some beautiful scenery looking out to sea which was dotted with forested islands. Passed throught Playa Colorado and arrived in Santa Fe. I got onto a converted lorry which took me to Posada Del mar, right on the beach; part of it was a cafe and the beach sand came up to the edge of it. I had a room, twice the size of the one in P.La Cruz, with sliding glass doors leading out onto a balcony overlooking the sea. I met a London couple who had just arrived last night from Manaus (Brazil). Santa Fe is a small fishing village with a beach area to one side of it. On mywalk around one fisherman wanted to sell me some crab; lots of others were hauking in their catch of the moring and having them weighed. I had a ham roll and some juice but ended up with an upset stomach. I looked for the first aid kit but it was missing. It must have come adrift when my rucksack was on the roofrack of the minibus; fortunately I had some medicine separate which I took. ´Went for a swim after which I lay down for a while as I still was feeling unwell. ´Was looking forward to a seafood meal but couldn´t eat anything. The London couple gave me an immodium table and some salts. I went for a brief walk and to get a bottle of water. While buying the water there were some fisherman in the shop huddled round the counter eating a selection of the day´s catch; they were pressing me to join them and have something to eat, which I would have loved to under ordinary circumstances; I thanked them,saying I had eaten already and was full! ´Went back to the posada for an early night as I needed to be well for the long trip up to Merida tomorrow. It was a windy night but warm. I was awakened about 2:30 am by some cockerels crowing; they must have thought it was dawn. They started a dog barking and then a cat was meowing outside my door trying to get in; It was like an animals symphony (cacophony) with it going on for the rest of the morning! The pillow over my head did little to block out the orchestra!

Saturday 14.03.09
´Feeling a bit better I got up, had a long shower and packed to go. ´Decided to be safe and not eat. ´Had to wake up the proprietress to open the main door to get out. ´Was on the road by eight on my way back to P. La Cruz; much better minibus for this journey. Just behind the drivers seat was a speaker - as big as one you´d have in a large lounge. The Venezuelans like their music, and they like it very loud. Music is played everywhere, and in some buildings and cars so loud you can´t hear yourself. I got my ticket for Merida (high up in the Andes) but the bus wasn´t leaving until 2:00pm for the 18 hour trip, so I had some time to spare. ´Caught up with e-mails etc. I´ll be glad to get out of P.La Cruz.

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Photos

Plaza Bolivar , Tucupita
Yet another Bolivar Square - every town and city has one. I was told that all towns have their plaza built first as the centre and the town radiates from it.

Music Lessons in Tucupita
These young musicians were practising, some inside some out, on a variety of instruments.

Festival Parade
In Tucupita they were celebrating their patron saint with a huge parade followed by fireworks display.

Deserted Beach in P. La Cruz
Early morning and apart from a few joggers no one around. From a distance the beach looks a lot nicer than it really is - spoilt with litter.

View from Posada Del Mar
This is the view from the balcony outside my room in Posada Del Mar, Santa Fe.

Arriving in with the Day´s Catch
Fishermen landing with their catch; note the pelicans surrounding the boat picking up some spare fish.

The Louder the Better
Music everywhere, no matter where you go and they like it loud. This speaker was in the minibus behind the drivers seat on the way back to P. La Cruz.

´Health and Safety´ (to come)
This is the driver´s assistant in the minibus just holding on with his fingertips at a speed of 60kpm plus.

Comments

[jennie]

Kieran
Hi Joe, Hope you are feeling better now. Try and get hold of another first aid kit. Kieran rang he is fine and can start tennis again. Am going to Ireland for Easter weekend. Sometime in Dublin and the rest at Annaghlee. Will miss Kieran and co as they are heading west for Easter. K is here still. At a party last night at Queens Pub Selborne . Remember K's birthday!! Going to Manchester to R and J soon. Enjoy yourself and take care J and K