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Published: June 25th 2012
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Montevideo came with a series of warnings about where not to go and to some extent this influenced our choices. We chose a hostel on the edge of the "badlands" in the old part of the city as this appeared to be the centre of the most interesting part in Montevideo. This proved to be the case.
On our first day we went down to the wharf area. At the edge of the port we watched local people fishing and across the road a fervent football gamein a local park. The port area is a great area during the afternoon bustling with restaurants, markets and interesting shops and art works. However after dark this area is off limits for most people due to the high level of crime. While walking near our hostel one evening, we glanced into this area and it was strangely quiet and foreboding. A real shame because if the crime level could be reduced this area would be a real feature for the city.
The first night we stayed at El Viajero-Cuidad Vieja Hostel but we were not happy with it. Our room was basic which was fine but it was very noisy. The kitchen
had no hot running water and the standard of cleanliness was well below our expectation. As a result of our first night of discomfort and disappointment, we decided to move hostels. The following day we shifted two blocks to Hotel Palacio which we later learned was a well known budget hotel. It proved very serviceable but it did not have a kitchen so we had to eat out each night. The manager was a delight, always helpful and trying to bridge the language gap.
On our second day we took the local bus to the Tristan Narvaja Flea Market. This was fascinating and spread over multiple blocks. There was a wide range of stalls selling, meat, cheese, bread, clothing, and pets while musicians played a variety of instruments in a variety of styles. As we moved to the outer edge of the market we saw people selling second hand goods ranging from old records to the kitchen sink (okay it was a bathroom handbasin, but there was bound to be a kitchen sink there somewhere!). The local shops were also open so we enjoyed poking around a couple of antique shops selling goods from a much grander time in
Uruguay's history. Over all, this was the best market we have seen in South America to date. We strongly recommend a visit.
After a couple of hours of shopping we had a pair of laces for Leigh's new tango shoes and some fruit and pastries for lunch. We ate our picnic lunch in a park near the market and on the walk back we used the famous international brand of toilets, McDonalds (apparently they do something resembling food as well!). Eileen was a bit intimidated by the security guard on the door, the first we had seen at a McDonalds, but the call of nature ensured she conquered her concerns about the possibility of being questioned about her intentions.
A little more relaxed after our branded bathroom visit we went to the Museo Municipal Precolombino y Colonial. It is worth a visit especially as it is free.
In the evening we attended a local Milonga. The locals were good dancers and there was more room on the dance floor than in Buenos Aires. Eileen's back was sore and we were both tired so we had a couple of dances and departed.
On our last day we
caught a bus to Parque Rodo and walked back to town along the waterfront. The park is sizable with a rowing pond, trees and a fountain with mosaic covered seating.
Montevideo was mostly closed during our stay. The businesses were shut for the weekend we visited. Monday was a public holiday and it rained most of the time so we did not see the city at its best. Regardless of these things, I liked the city and Eileen was somewhat more ambivalent. A word of advice for those planning a trip to Montevideo - head there mid week as we have heard that there are a lot of holidays on Mondays.
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