La Paz to Cusco - 3rd Leg of my Pan American Trip


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South America » Peru
May 16th 2015
Published: June 2nd 2015
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Machu PicchuMachu PicchuMachu Picchu

First sighting of Machu Picchu!
Day 46 Puno – Sat 07 February 2015

Leaving Copacabana and Bolivia behind us we cross into Peru. At the border there has been some mix up with the truck’s paperwork. With the help of a guide we were on our way after a short delay. Arriving at Puno we go to the port for lunch transported by bicycle taxis. The area is famous for trout and has several restaurants along the front. After a delicious lunch of grilled trout we take a boat trip to the reed islands of Uros on Lake Titicaca. We are greeted by the inhabitants all dressed traditionally. We are given a talk on how the reed islands are built and maintained. Later we are shown the inside of one of the houses and then had the opportunity to buy local crafts.

Puno is a melting pot of Aymara and Quechuan Indian culture and traditional Andean customs still remain. It is known for its folklore and dancing. That evening there is a street festival, the streets are full of colourful and musical parades.

Day 47 Cusco – Sun 08 February 2015

Today is a long drive day of 440km. We first make a stop at the pre-inca Sillustani ruins just outside of Puno. They are situated near Lake Umayo where we have a group photo taken. We then travel onto Cusco, the ancient capital of the Inca Civilisation.

Day 48 – 51 Cusco Mon 09 – Thu 12 Feb 2015

For the next few days the group will be split between those doing the four day community trek, and those of us staying in Cusco. Two of us had taken the non-trekking option when booking the trip; an Australian couple both had bad tummy upsets so had to pull out; a British guy had altitude sickness & high blood and being overweight was advised by a local doctor not to attempt the trek; and a British lady changed her mind and pulled out last minute!

The first day the whole group visit the Sacsayhuaman site. The ruins are made up of gigantic blocks with a zig zag frontal of a fort like constructions. It is thought that it was originally built as a temple complex. From here you can get a lovely view of the roof tops of Cusco. Our next stop is the ruins of Pisac with its small pathways and ancient arches.

Our journey then takes us onto Chincheros, a small village in the Sacred Pampas where the locals speak mainly Quecha, the language of the Incas. Here we see a weaving demonstration that has been unchanged for a thousand years. The women spin and dye the alpaca and llama wool before making beautiful hats, scarves and other woollen garments. We are taken nearby for lunch before being driven to Quillarumiyoc to visit the Temple of the Moon. After a short while we split into two groups, those doing the community trek and those of us going back to Cusco to chill out and explore the town.

Cusco is the ancient capital of the Inca Empire; it is so beautiful with its majestic main plaza and the cobbled streets lined with attractive colonial buildings. The streets are lively with shops, bars and restaurants. A lovely cathedral dominates the plaza and there are several museums to visit. I visit a few of the museums. I sample the restaurants including one with a balcony from which you have a good view to take photos of the cathedral and plaza. If you are ever in Cusco there is a café just off the main plaza in Calle Saphi called ‘Mr Soup’; there you can get a large bowl of amazing homemade soup. There are many options, they come with bread and are quite filling – ideal for lunch or a light evening meal.

Day 52 – 53 Sacred Valley Fri 13 – Sat 14 Feb 2015

Having spent a few days chilling out in Cusco it is time to re-join the rest of the group to visit Machu Picchu. After breakfast the six of us are picked up by mini bus from our hotel and taken to the fortress town of Ollantaytambo where we book into the delightful Tunupa Lodge.

We take a leisurely stroll into the small town and have lunch in a cafe overlooking a river. Keith, Charlotte and I take a stroll up to the square and back along the narrow road that brought us into the town when we arrived earlier. The area is very scenic and we take photos before going back to the Lodge. I am pleased to see that I am sharing with Anna, a young Russian and not with Ingrid whose snoring would wake up an army!

The rest of the group who have been on the Community Inca Trek arrive and re-join us. Due to low cloud and rain they had not been able to see or take too many photos of the scenery. Some of the group were affected by the high altitude and had to do the last bit by horse, and although tough everyone completed the trek. All in all they thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

The whole group walk to the amazing walled Ollantaytambo archaeological site, which is well known as the Temple of the Sun. These amazing Inca ruins are terraced with many steps. Climbing up these steps we were able to see over the market stalls outside of the walls and the town of Ollantaytambo. The whole area is surrounded by beautiful mountains with more Inca remains on the opposite mountainside.

In the evening a group of us walked into the market square with Jaimel the guide and consume a pleasant meal of stewed chicken cooked with pepper and onions served with rice.

After an early breakfast the next morning and a ten minute walk to the train station we take a stunning two hour train ride to Agua Calientes. The journey takes us through several different micro climates, past Inca terraces, look out posts, ancient river bank reinforcements and small towns. Mountains soaring up into the sky, including a glimpse of the beautiful Mount Veronica (18,800ft / 5,750m). The train passes through eight tunnels before finally arriving at Aguas Calientes. Next we catch a local bus, which winds up the mountainside along some narrow roads for approximately thirty minutes before finally arriving at the entrance to Machu Picchu (7,800ft / 2,400m.

A guide takes us around this awe inspiring ‘Lost City of the Incas’. We first of all climb several steps and turning around a corner, ‘Wow! My first sight of Machu Picchu takes my breath away. All these years of wanting to visit this place and now I am here, ‘Wow! The guide takes us around explaining the rich history of this ancient site, leaving us enough time to explore on our own. I am deeply immersed in the place and want the experience to last for ever. Want a way to spend the day before my birthday – a fantastic and unique birthday present! We were so lucky to have a
Reed islands of Uros on Lake TiticacaReed islands of Uros on Lake TiticacaReed islands of Uros on Lake Titicaca

Welcoming us to the island of Uros Lake Titicaca
sunny day as the previous few days visitors had not been able to take photos due to low foggy clouds hanging over the site. Of course it goes without saying that I took loads of pictures and it will take some time at a later date to go through them all.

Eventually I drag myself away from this amazing place and make my way to catch the bus back to Aguas Calientes. Thankfully I had allowed good time as the queues for the buses are quite long. After the thirty minute journey back down the mountainside with its fabulous views I re-join the rest of the group for the train journey back to Ollantaytambo. The return journey is every bit as spectacular as that of the morning and we are again treated to refreshments courtesy of Inca Rail. Back at Ollantaytambo we are taken by private transfer to our hotel in Cusco. I go to bed that night a tired and extremely happy person.

Day 54 Cusco – Sun 15 Feb 2015

Today is my birthday and it is raining! At breakfast I am presented with a lovely ‘Peru’ t-shirt from the group. As it is a
Reed islands of Uros on Lake TiticacaReed islands of Uros on Lake TiticacaReed islands of Uros on Lake Titicaca

Demonstration on the reed island of Uros on Lake Titicaca
free day and the end of the tour for some of the group I spend the day on my own. In the afternoon I take a walk down the plaza to see the procession and as the rain is coming down in torrents I dress in waterproof trousers and a rain poncho – how gorgeous I must look!! There is water everywhere as the drains cannot cope with the volume coming out of the sky. So it’s a case of trying to avoid getting splashed too badly by the traffic.

Unfortunately the procession was in the morning only, unlike other towns where it goes on for the whole day and into the night. However the local youngsters are still out water bombing and spraying foam over each other as is the custom during and after processions. I go into Mr Soup and consume a large bowl of homemade vegetable and quinoa soup.

I take a look around the cathedral and climb the bell tower; here there is a good view over the plaza. The rain has eased off and I take photos of the youngsters water bombing and covering each other in foam. Suddenly the heavens open up
On route to CuscoOn route to CuscoOn route to Cusco

Lady in traditional costume with an alpaca
again scattering them in all directions as they run for cover; why when they are already wet from the water bombing!

My birthday evening is spent at Cicciolina, a lovely restaurant with Mike and Lori, a really nice couple from New Zealand who are also traveling all the way to Anchorage. I tuck into a tender alpaca steak done in a creamy 4 pepper sauce accompanied with a glass or two of Malbec red wine. This was finished off with a Peruvian chocolate mousse and strawberries. Contented after an enjoyable evening, I go back to the hotel and to bed as it’s an early start to head to Raqchi tomorrow. Due to bad wifi connection not too many photos - will post more later.


Additional photos below
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On route to CuscoOn route to Cusco
On route to Cusco

Being a tourist with an alpaca!
ChincherosChincheros
Chincheros

Weaving demonstration
ChincherosChincheros
Chincheros

Dying the wool


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