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Published: August 12th 2007
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Pete's Mum, Jo, and boyfriend, Brian, joined Pete & Angela on their two week trip to Peru. It was their first taste of this type of holiday. Of course being gatecrashers to the adventure they were told they had to write the blog...
Foggy Lima with Heads in the Clouds
Pete & Ang were on the steps of the hotel to greet us and a couple of days were spent in Lima acclimatizing to South America and pisco sours. It took little persuasion to tempt Jo to try the paragliding once the little problem of losing her sandals was solved with help from Brian. There were concerns from the others as Jo’s parachute was seen disappearing into the mist above Lima’s skyline.
Lima itself was overcast and hazy so it was a relief on flying down to Puno, where we started to acclimatize to the higher altitudes, to find sun and blue skies along with the rest of the group.
Lake Titicaca, Home Stays and Shortness of Breath
With an early start that became the rule, we were transported in a line of tricycles to the shore of Lake Titicaca
and then by motor boat over the blue waters to the floating villages of the Uros people. They continually add reeds to their islands to compensate for those rotting underneath until after about 35 years they build a completely new island. Houses, boats etc. are made from these reeds which only grow on the shores of this lake. They even eat the reed insides although none of us found it particularly tasty.
On then to Amantani, where colourfully dressed ladies could be seen making their way to the quay from all over the island. We were all allocated to hosts ( a bit like evacuees in the war, I would imagine) and led panting with our luggage trying to keep up with the nimble ladies up the tracks to their homes. Their lungs have twice the capacity of ours to cope with the altitude. After the first of the excellent varieties of Peruvian soups we were allowed a brief rest before being taken halfway up the hillside at speed where they handed us over to the guide. We reached the summit in time to see a magical sunset and very solemnly walked three times around a temple before offering
coca leaves making a wish. We were told that great respect is still paid to the Gods of the sun, moon, mountains by the Peruvians.
Ang and Pete....We were surprised that Mum and Brian were giving up their coca leaves as by now they seemed to have developed a keen addiction to the leaves in order to combat altitude sickness. Not sure whether they work but they certainly ruin your smile for pictures... On our descent, we were fed again by our various hosts, dressed in traditional dress and escorted up again to a very energetic traditional dance evening. The band piped, visitors and villagers danced until everyone eventually retired to their beds.
Early next morning, off to another island, Taquile. On each island the women wear distinctive hats. Here, the women were working in shifts, some with small children on their backs, to move stones for the men to build a new jetty. The main rule in these villages is that you work for everyone and the whole community live by three rules - don’t steal, don’t lie and don’t be lazy.
The Great Machu Picchu
Now supposedly acclimatised, we
travelled to Cuzco in readiness for the classic Inca trail to Machu Picchu. This should have been an easy eight hour bus ride but due to a militant teachers strike and road blockades it became a twelve hour, dusty, cross country trip - but we made it!! and after a little sight seeing in Cuzco and sampling guinea pig we finally set off for Machu Picchu.
This was four days of trekking and three nights of camping. The first day was supposedly like a walk in the park - not like any park I've been to - but from the very beginning the views were magnificent and the Andes were higher and with more snow covered peaks than I had expected. The younger element of the group romped along and even the 'wrinklies' managed.
We were at the check point by 5.30am on the last leg of the trek to catch the rise of the sun over Machu Picchu. Unfortunately the sun never rose that day due to cloud, but we were greeted on passing through the sun gate to a wonderful clear view over the whole of Machu Picchu. It was after all the winter season. Most
of the group later that day climbed up Huayna Picchu to see the promised aerial view in the shape of the condor and puma but nobody managed that although they all enjoyed the climb.
The return to the civilisation of Cuzco was by a very pleasant but slow train and the group was very pleased when a minibus unexpectedly collected us before Cuzco saving over an hours train ride with ten minutes on the road.
Congratulations to Machu Picchu as whilst we were walking it was declared one of the new natural seven wonders of the world.
Into the Rainforest
An early start again next day to avoid the road closures and we were flying to Puerto Maldonado on a tributary of the Amazon. On reaching the lodge by boat, we were not given long to enjoy the home comforts before being taken to get our first close up glimpse of the rainforest. This was followed that evening by a silent glide along the river bank in search of caiman. Three were spotted with the searchlight along with a monster rat.
The resident macaws and toucan enjoyed our attention and the scarlet
macaw attacked shoe laces at every opportunity.
The rainforest was explained on a trek next day. We initially visited an island solely populated by rescued monkeys. They accepted bananas from the guide, running off with mouths full and a couple bananas in each hand to drop the skins on us at leisure.
A pack of up to 60 wild squirrel monkeys was seen later jumping in the canopy overhead.
We finally reached the waters of Tambopata where Pete and three others (the women had more sense) enjoyed flying down from a tree on a rope swing into the murky waters below. We then filled two boats and were rowed silently back along the waters edge getting a brief glimpse of giant otters, long nosed bats and hoatzin birds.
Throughout the trip the Peruvian food was great: starting with tacos in Lima, soups at Lake Titicaca, vast quantities served by our 22 year old chef in the camps (where we were spoilt by the twelve porters, chefs etc. looking after the ten of us) and the various fruits of the lodge.
It was with great reluctance that we left Pete and Angela in Lima to head home
knowing that they had further travels ahead to unknown destinations for another month - although I believe this was delayed a little by the need for clean clothes.
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Dennis Barlow
non-member comment
Great photos
Especially the one of the military bats. I'm really looking forward to seeing all of your shots; the wonderfully coloured clothing and magnificent countryside, not to mention the wildlife.