Huanchaco

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Our Arrival

The bus from Trujillo town arrived at 3:35pm and dropped us off on Los Pinos street. It is easy to walk around the town and there are a few hostals on that street.



Where We Stayed

Caimu Beach - S/30 for a double room with share bathroom on Los Pinos. The room was really nice with a small balcony and TV. Bathroom was shared with one other room and had hot water. Internet worked well in the room and there was a roof terrace. If you want you can get a rate with breakfast. Run by friendly guys.



Mamacocha - S/20 for a double room with share bathroom on Los Pinos. There is a kitchen and fridge you can use, wifi which works well in the room and a big TV in what appeared to be an old restaurant part that you can watch. The TV is also connected to the internet so you can use it as a computer or to watch things online. The room was really cheap however the place was a bit grubby. The windows in the room didn't close fully however plenty of blankets were provided so it wasn't cold. There is an electric hot water shower however we couldn't get the hot water working when we were there. The room on the road side is where we stayed and is nicer than the ones out the back. It also doesn't share a bathroom with any others.

The owner Cecilia is very friendly and helpful and speaks English. One incident when we were there happened when she went out one afternoon and the volunteer went out too and locked the gates (which we didn't have a key for) saying he would be back in 1/2 hour. We went out to the supermarket and came back but the gates were still locked. We waited outside and at the beach for 3 hours and still he didn't return so we had to break our way in. He finally returned 7 hours after he left. We spoke to Cecilia about it and she was very apologetic and is getting more keys cut for the front gate to give to guests.





What We Did

When we were there the weather wasn't really warm enough for beach days. The sea has big waves but is not great for swimming as it is quite rocky. It is good to watch the big pelicans who hang around the seafront and the men on the traditional canoes.



VISITED CHAN CHAN RUINS

We caught the bus from Huanchaco from the beach front at 12:45pm. It cost S/1.50 payable to the conductor when he comes round. We asked to be dropped at Chan Chan and arrived at 1:05pm. From the main road you then need to walk for 15 mins up to the entrance.

The entrance cost is S/10 which gives you admission to the reconstructed Tschudi area. You can follow the fish signs around for a walking tour. There are a few information signs which are also in English and a bit of a museum before you get in. The whole Chan Chan site is really big and we tried walking around some of the other areas however we were told that we weren't allowed to by people working there. We spent about an hour there and then walked back to the main road. Whilst you are at the site look out for the hairless dogs.

The ticket for Chan Chan also gives you entrance to a museum and two other areas. To get to the museum from the main road turn off to Chan Chan, walk towards town for 10 mins. The museum was small but had signs in English. We spent about 15 mins there. It is closed on Mondays.

From the museum we then walked to the shopping mall and supermarkets which are towards town. It took a further 25mins. From there, there are really frequent buses back to Huanchaco.



VISITED THE HUACAS DEL SOL Y LUNA

To get there from Huanchaco you need to catch a 'H' bus (not a 'H' with a picture of a heart) and ask the conductor to go to Ovalo Grau for S/1.50. We caught the bus at 1:10pm. Ovalo Grau is on Moche and America Sur near a Delfin petrol station. From there you can catch a white combi to Capina de Moche which drops you at the Hucas Del Sol.

Unfortunately for us the trip didn't go right to plan. Our bus didn't have a conductor so we asked the driver to drop us there but he didn't really seem sure of the area. We drove down America Sur past several bus companies but then turned off the main road. We went up to the driver and asked for Ovalo Grau again and he told us to get off the bus and it was all around that area. We got off the bus at 2pm not knowing where we were. We walked down to a big roundabout which had a statue in the middle of an indigenous man's head and asked at a petrol station where we can get combis to the Huacas. They said we could catch them from where we were standing. (We later tried to find out where this was on google maps and it seemed to be Ovalo La Marina on La Marina and Pan America Norte). A couple of white combis drove past with Capina on the front but were all really full and didn't stop. We didn't really know where we were or where we were going so hailed a taxi to take us there instead at 2:25pm which cost S/12.

We arrived at the Huacas at 2:40pm. The Huacas are on the left but the ticket office and museum are on the right hand side of the road. Admission is S/10 to the Huaca de la Luna and S/3 to the museum.

The museum was really good with exhibits of artifacts found in the area and the signs were translated into English also. We spent about 45 mins in the museum.

Entrance to the Huaca de la Luna is by guided tour only with a voluntary tip and a maximum wait time of 15 mins. Guides are in Spanish only although the one we had could speak English and answered some people's questions in English. Our guide wasn't very good and rushed us around the site, even overtaking the guided tour that left 15 mins before our one. We were at the site for just under 1 hour. The site itself is good with well preserved pictures on the walls. You cannot access Huaca del Sol as it is still being excavated but you can see it in the distance. Again look out for the hairless dogs.

As we were leaving the site a combi pulled up and we caught it at 4:50pm. It cost S/1.50 and went into central Trujillo. We asked to be dropped off where we could catch a bus to Huanchaco and we were dropped off at 5:10pm on a busy road near a Pharmacy College. A few mins later a minibus came by to Huanchaco which we caught for another S/1.50. We got off at the mall at 5:30pm as we wanted to go to the supermarket again before heading back to Huanchaco.



Where We Ate

Nutribuger/Caldo de Gallina - on Los Pinos. S/5 for a meal of a chicken patty, rice and chips and a drink. S/6 during the day as it comes with soup. Burgers also sold here. The meal wasn't very good.

In the market which is on Pilomayo we got a meal of soup, a small bit of chicken, rice and beans and a drink which was like hot lemon from a slightly crazy old lady for S/4 each. We also ate at another place in the market and got the same but more soup and meat and a juice for S/6.

There was a kitchen at our 2nd hostal so we cooked. There is no supermarket in town only small shops and the market however there are 2 supermarkets at the mall just before the town which you can get the bus to.

The food in town (apart from at the market) seemed to be pretty expensive especially along the seafront where there are tourist seafood restaurants.



About Huanchaco

It is a small but pleasant beach town which makes a good base for exploring the ruins as there are very frequent buses.

When we were there the weather was not hot enough for sunbathing and we had some cloudy days. When the sun is out it is quite nice however there was a cold wind and it got chilly in the evening.

If the weather is good there is a nice sunset over the sea.

There are 2 ATM's on the beachfront near the concrete football pitch.

There are a couple of agencies on the beachfront that can book you bus tickets. Make sure you book at least a day in advance for a night bus to Lima as they were full when we wanted to go. The buses leave from Trujillo town but are on the Huanchaco bus route.



Where We Went Next

We went to Cusco via Lima. We bought tickets for both buses from the agency on the sea front. The bus to Lima was with Linea and cost S/45 each. The bus from Lima to Cusco was with Civa and cost S/80 each.

This is how it went:

1. We caught a ´H´bus from the seafront at 6:28pm. There was no conductor so we paid the driver as we got on and got a ticket. We asked him to stop at the Linea terminal. We arrived at 7:05pm.

2. Once inside the terminal there is a baggage area where your bag is tagged and they put it on the bus. There are free toilets and there is a sign saying there is free wifi.

3. When an announcement is made you head out to the bus. Your ticket and ID are checked and small bags are scanned. You pass through a metal detector and are being filmed. On the bus there was a toilet, seatbelts and a nice headrest. The bus left at 8:40pm.

4. We arrived at the Plaza Norte station in Lima at 5:40am and dropped off some passengers. The bus then continued to the Linea terminal which is on Paseo Republico and Isabel La Catolica and arrived at 6:20am.

The bags are unloaded and you bring your tag up to the desk to claim your bag. Unfortunately for us our bags weren´t there. We had been given cargo tickets instead and were informed that our bags would be arriving in the evening. We weren´t happy as we had an afternoon bus to catch to Cusco. We were informed it wasn´t their problem and they couldn´t put them on an earlier bus. Whilst we were trying to resolve the situation the next bus which left after ours but was express arrived along with our bags. The bag man must have realised his mistake and put them on the next bus. We were very relieved.

5. We next headed to the Civa bus terminal for our bus to Cusco. From Linea terminal go out and walk right on the main road Paseo Republico. 10 mins later you will reach the terminal. We needed to pick up our tickets as the agency in Huanchaco only booked them online for us. We gave the girl at the desk the internet booking number and she printed her tickets. This was about 7:15am and there were about 6 seats left on the afternoon bus. The Civa terminal has comfy seats and a plug you can use if you sit by the public telephone. There is no wifi and it costs S/0.50 to use the toilets.

6. When it came close to our departure time we took our bags to the station at the left of the platform doors. They were put on a trolley and we made sure this time we watched them put them on our bus. A sign was put out next to the platform door for Cusco, platform 3.

7. The bus to Cusco left at 1:25pm. There was a toilet on the bus and no aircon which wasn´t needed. However I had a broken seatbelt and there was no light in the toilet so you needed a torch at night. We stopped for a dinner break at 7:25pm until 8:10pm and arrived at the terminal terreste at 11:55am. If you get a choice don´t seat near the toilet. We were in the middle and by the morning it stank everytime someone opened the toilet door. Those near the toilet spent the end of the journey with scarfs etc around their nose and mouths.

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