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Published: June 12th 2008
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For the life of a travelling backpacker, the last 24 hrs was a hard day at the office with many deadlines. We must confess we have been a little slack on the research front and with Matts sisters description of the floating islands etched in our minds we were expecting Copacabana to be the launching spot for a visit. So having a deadline to meet our Inca jungle trek and realising the floating islands were on the Peruvian side of Titicaca, we worked out if the cards fell into place we might just be able to see the floating islands as a stop over. We didn't know how tight this would be so hence we last left you hastily to make our way to Peru.
Our time in Bolivia was brief but extended from our original time schedule as we had not realised how much it had to offer. This is a country of extremes with the highest cities, jungles with greatest diversity in South America, unjustified poverty with happy friendly people and unique natural phenomenon.
So we took the first bus out of Copacabana and another walk through an extremely relaxed border and were pleasantly surprised with the
Replenishing the Reeds
Hard work when you drag them by row boat time zone granting us an extra hour. From the bus Peru did not seem much different to Bolivia although Lake Titicaca creates an unusual illusion that you are at a lower altitude although at 3800m you are infact higher than almost all Bolivian cities.
The floating Isla del Uros are visited from the Peru city of Puno which doesn´t seem to have much else to offer (but the city is clearly working on it). We arrived at midday and not wanting to land in Cuzco too late we booked the 4pm bus from a well regarded company (Ormeño) which left us 4 hours to find the port and do a 3 hour tour to the islands. So loaded up with all our possessions we followed the local fingers in the direction of the port and chance had it there was a boat leaving immediately (the trusty "Willy Willy II"). We borded the fine sea going vessel and chugged out to the islands. Being Codds maybe we should not be on a boat and this one felt like it was only a matter of time before we wouldn´t be. The windows were slithers of glass and multiple layers of
Keeping Watch
what for? maybe so we didnt float to Boliva... cellotape, the engine was started by holding 2 wires together and as you walked around the sagging and missing floor boards you watched your step as to not stand on the moving engine parts (Willy Willy II mu st have had a fine family tree. Where are you Willy Willy III?? ).
The floating islands are hard to explain as they had been described to us and we didn't understand until we had been here. The islands are made out of bouyant Totora Reeds which are abundantly growing around the lake shallows. The Uros people lived on these artificial islands for centuries originally isolating themselves from the aggressive Collas and Incas. Each island contains one family and together the islands combine to form a community. The floating islands are constantly layered with new reeds as they rot from below. This creates a soft and spongy surface. The houses can be moved around the island and the islands themselves are anchored in to place as not to drift. Fascinating visit and with Willy Willy II ge tting us back safely to shore we made a quick dash to the bus terminal only to find our bus had been delayed until
Yes the Island does Float
and they dropped a 18m line over the edge to prove it. 5pm and then cancelled (Peru, Bolivia buses, whats the difference?).
We were shifted to another bus company and confused and suspicious by our 50% refund with only a half hour delay in our arrival time. With delays and slightly extended journey times we were a little bit concerned that we would arrive after midnight without a hotel. So a quick call to our Machu Picchu tour guide we were offered a pick up from the bus station (unfortunately with Lorenzos South American english and Matts kiwi accent the conversation was rather broken so we sent an email hoping he would get it and understood our requirements. we soon realised why our bus was such a bargain as the originally empty coach stopped at every conceivable town to pick up all sorts of men, women, screaming babies and smells. Having promised us that we would arrive by midnight, then 12.30 then 1am, we suddenly realised it would be well after that, the question being when and would Lorenzo wait, if he was there at all (Dehli train station was once again fresh in our minds). After Matt convinced Leanne it was all under control we pulled into a large black
Willy Willy II
Fine sea going vessel deserted bus terminal in the middle of the rainy Cuzco at 1.30pm. Unfortunately there were no cameras to see the transition in Leannes face as we saw a Peruvian man appear with a sign reading "Lorenzo Peru". This little gem had a taxi and hostal pre booked waiting for us. Anyway enough is enough as we are due to meet him and discuss our 4 day trek to the much anticipated Machu Picchu.
PS We had best sign off as we have been writing this for so long that the local street selling folk have already persuaded us to buy several paintings and while holding off the purchase of quantities of wooden artifacts, Leanne is currently being enticed to buy a new llama wool jumper.
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