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We have heard that Puno does not have a lot going for it other than as a stop off and entry point for Lake Titicaca. We arrive in the late afternoon after an eight-hour bus journey that took us across the border from Bolivia to Peru. After a brief rest in our rooms, we meet up again to visit the huge and quite impressive condor statue that looks out over the city from the top of the hill.
The next day we set off very early with our local guide, Henry, for a two-day trip on the lake and it’s islands. It’s father´s day today, and there are no phones on the islands we are to visit, but fortunately we locate both a phone and a phone card on the quay and make the calls to both fathers.
Our boat is very comfortable in an unexpected 70s leather sofa - style way, and we enjoy the views through the huge windows. Henry gives us an introduction to the Quechan language, as was used by the Incas and still used by their decendants today. The language is still spoken in some parts of Peru and also on the islands we
will be visiting, so we are each given sheets containing the most common greetings and phrases, and practice our pronunciation with him.
Our first stop is Taquile Island where we have a lovely walk. We are a bit shocked to see a small flock of sheep some of whom have two of their legs shackled together with rope to inhibit them from roaming too far away at too great a speed. One of them stumbles as we walk past and rolls a few feet down the hill. Fortunately it seems none the worse for wear. A steep path takes us to the main square where after lunch, we visit a photography exhibition depicting local life. The inhabitants of the island had been given digital cameras, trained in their use and been encouraged to use them freely to record day-to-day life. The results were excellent and both quite moving and amusing. The people here, as in most of Peru, live a hard, physical life, but enjoy a community spirit not as evident in either Chile or Bolivia.
We re-board the boat and head for Amantani Island where we are to stay with local families for one night. The locals
are on the quay to greet us. They sit on one side of a circle and we on the other. It is somewhat reminiscent of school sports teams - waiting to see whether we will be picked. Our host ‘Mum and Dad’ turn out to be lovely! They are very warm and welcoming. The Mum (Norma) meets us on the quayside and leads us back to her home, where we meet the father (Rufisi) who, having spent a day in the fields (we later learnt) was in the process of laying a mosaic floor in the courtyard. The floor that had already been laid looked amazing and had taken approxinately three months, although the selection, collection and preparation of the stones and the ground had taken much longer.
Once we have dropped our bags, we meet back up with the others and walk to the top of the island to see the earth mother temple where the locals give thanks for all the fruits of the earth, and where we enjoy an amazing panoramic sunset.
Afterwards, back with our host family, we join Rufisi at the table in the kitchen to enjoy a delicious dinner of quinea soup,
followed by pasta. Around the corner by the fire are the grandmother and older daughter with her young baby. We take photos and promise to send copies once we are home.
Shortly after tea, there is a knock at the bedroom door and both the Norma and Rufisi appear with traditional dress, which we are informed (with sign language) we are to put on. It turns out that we shall don the dress for the evening and wear it to the dance to which we and our co-travellers are invited. We both feel ridiculous and it is quite funny, but we are sensitive to the fact that this is their traditional dress, still worn daily here on the island. It is definately warm, for which we were grateful on the hike up the hill to the village hall, where there are more villagers and a band playing traditonal Peruvian music. The rest of our group arrive shortly afterwards and before we know it, we are learning the steps to the local dances and being spun and twisted across the floor.
It is great fun and a real experience. Although it is being put on for our benefit, we
are aware that it is also what the locals do for fun, and it is great to experience it up close. Finally at about 11pm, after dancing most of the night, we persuade our hosts to take us home where we sleep deeply until being awoken by a cockeral and donkey at 5.30am.
After a pancake breakfast, we are taken back down to the quayside where we thank our families, and reboard the boat. We then have a three-hour sailing, which I spend reading and relaxing on the top deck which is a real treat.
We approach the Uros Islands which are floating islands made of reeds. The reeds (we later learn) are only about three feet deep and float on top of water that is eighteen meters deep. The reeds are constantly topped up as the ones in contact with the water gradually decay.
The island is fascinating and is one of several housing small communities on the lake. Tourism is one of their main incomes now (as well as trout fishing and textile production). We purchase a lovely handmade cushion cover for Phyl (my Mum´s Mum) from a very friendly and persuasive woman called ´Hulia´.
Soon it is back to the boat for a final hours sailing, and a lovely picnic lunch on board. Henry, our guide, has been amazing and Lake Titicaca is stunning and every bit as lovely as we had heard.
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Alec
non-member comment
Now this is getting ridiculous!
I'm in Leeds central library, finally getting Leodis prints of cottage ordered, and only put 1 hr's money in parking meter - so no time to read text xxx!!xx- but what pictures!! Will look again from Headingley - but just had to give instant gob-smacked feedback. Go safely, see you soon, A