"South of the Border - Down Lima, Peru Way" - July, 2015

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“South of the Border, Down Lima…Peru Way”



July



And so another sojourn begins with an early alarm call at 4am (still 87f out there, but thankfully very low humidity factor) staggering around in the pre-dawn darkness, attempting to get myself together. Overnight bag is already packed and in the car – now just need to get both eyes open and I can drive to McCarran to start this new adventure.



A perk of being Delta Elite is the Sky Priority lane located in most airports, and also here in Las Vegas. The “great unwashed” masses are huddling around the general check-in lines when I first arrive, but I sail past them and am in and out in less than 3 minutes. With boarding passes in hand, it’s off to the TSA Pre-Check line at security (another airline perk I’m particularly fond of), and onto the tram which will deliver me to Terminal D and the first of my 3 flights to the southern hemisphere.



An on-time departure out of Las Vegas and a few hours later, its touch down in Delta’s home town of Atlanta. It never fails, when my connecting flight is less than an hour, I’ll land at A concourse and my departing flight is either terminal E or F……thank all the gods on high for the “plane train” which whisks me across Hartsfield and has me at my international gate just in time to board. This trip I’m on a 767-400ER which I much prefer to the Airbus which has a different configuration and which Delta uses on many of its long-haul routes. I had selected seat 1A and as I got settled in, here comes the flying waitress with a tray of mimosas…..I grab two…..with 23 other first class passengers to serve, no telling when she will be back my way! Shoes off, seat back reclined, foot rest raised and sipping my mimosa while waiting for the back end of the plane’s seats to be filled….life doesn’t get much better than this waiting for takeoff.



It’s a relatively short 7-hour flight south but more than enough time to be served an excellent dinner. Delta recently revamped their planes, entertainment system (known as the Delta Studio) and their menus – this trip proved they have definitely “up their game” in these areas. With Bose noise-blocking headphones perched on my head I watched the latest Avengers movie, while another FW brought warmed pecans along with the signature Delta Sunrise cocktail to kick-start my digestive juices. The menu was impressive: starters were country pork pate with pepper crust, pretzel crostini and prosciutto, accompanied by an arugula salad, a mixture of snow peas, snap peas and carrots doused with avocado crème fraiche. They added a bowl of spicy tortilla soup to fill out the tray. This beginning course was boding well for the rest of the meal. The entree was simply a delight. I had selected beef short ribs with potato leek gratin and glazed carrots and dinner was brought to a close with High Road Cherry Chocolate Fudge Brownie Ice Cream and a shifter of Grand Marnier….I gave it all five stars. The movie was not holding my interest at this point plus I was pretty tired, so hit the button to extend my seat to the lie-flat bed and burrowed down under the duvet for a quick nap.



I was roused 3 hours later by yet another FW with a tray of seasonal fruit and southwest chicken breast on a bed of quinoa salad….but still stuffed from dinner I passed on those goodies and went for a fresh-brewed latte instead. The PA system pinged and the captain announced we were crossing the equator (for my umpteenth time) and entering winter time in the southern hemisphere. We would be landing in Lima in a couple of hours, giving me just enough time to complete my landing application and visa declaration, so Peru would let me back in – never know these days, my reputation sometimes precedes me! LOL



The wheels kissed the tarmac just before midnight and as I walked up the jet-way into the terminal, I could see the entire airfield bathed in silver – it was a full moon and a beautiful night – what a wonderful arrival into South America once more. Not only did the Peruvian authorities stamp my passport for a 90-day visit but the heavens apparently were welcoming me back as well. Ain’t life grand? A couple of other international flights had also just landed but customs and immigration were fast and efficient – I was picking up my bag less than 20 minutes after deplaning.



As I had reserved an executive level room Hilton had arranged airport limo service, and my driver was waiting right outside baggage claim. Being Friday night Lima was jumping, so the ride took longer than usual due to heavy traffic. This new Hilton property is located in the Miraflores neighborhood – the “Beverly Hills” of Lima - and the route from the airport parallels the Pacific Ocean on the coast road. Having been here a couple of times previously I recognized much of the area, but was surprised at how much new construction has been erected since my last visit. Its 1am by the time we pull up in front of the hotel and as the bell hops deal with my luggage, I’m checked in by the Hilton Honors concierge – fast and efficient to say the least. The property is brand new and gorgeous. Highly polished marble floors, wood latticed walls and plush furniture decorate the main lobby with subdued lighting everywhere. So far, so good. It’s a 12-story building – the top 3 floors being executive rooms and the lounge – I’m on the 11^th floor right around the corner from this lounge (my personal favorite) – talk about convenient, as I will be spending a lot of my time right there.



The room is fabulous. Floor to ceiling glass windows overlooking the ocean and new high-rise apartment buildings. King-size bed has the Hilton Dreams mattress and bed linens so crisp and clean, they crackle when moved. But the bathroom won my heart as they tend to do. Marble floor and walls with a massive walk-in shower – room enough for 4 people- too bad I didn’t have company! The round mirror behind the wash bowl is probably 4’ across with an illuminated light band surrounding it – prefect for makeup application without glare. And of course an endless array of top notch toiletries. The television is actually part of the wall at the end of the bed with a massive HD screen…..very 21^st century. The place is immaculate and has everything I expect from my favorite hotel chain. I had to christen the shower first and had both shower heads dousing me with warm water, washing away the travel stains of the previous 24 hours. Sliding between those crackling sheets, it was lights out just after 2am and into a deep, restful sleep.















Saturday morning I was awake by 9am dying for coffee, but first had to read the welcoming letter from the hotel’s general manager to see what was on the program for the weekend. I knew the lounge would be serving some sort of breakfast but was very pleasantly surprised to see what they do serve on a daily basis. Open from 6am to 10pm seven days a week, it starts with breakfast until 11am, followed by a light lunch at noon and then its afternoon snacks at 3pm before ending with a light dinner buffet from 6 to 10pm! No reason to use the restaurant and pay for food, this lounge has it all for free.



I was sipping my first latte 30 minutes later and it was served on the rooftop terrace – an open air restaurant overlooking the entire neighborhood and the ocean – what a way to start the day. The views are to die for and right next to the terrace is the rooftop swimming pool, already being used by a bunch of rug rats and their adoring parents. Well everything can’t be perfect I guess. Breakfast consisted of scrambled eggs, sliced ham, brie cheese and mango juice.

Very overcast morning with temps in the mid 60’s – at least 40 degrees cooler than Las Vegas up north – just a welcome relief from the unrelenting desert heat. Decided a walk in the area would counteract the hours of sitting on the plane, so off I went. The hotel is located at the heart of the cultural, commercial and touristic district of Lima. Its four blocks from the vibrant Larcomar area, which offers a wide range of activities including shopping, dining, theaters, museums and parks. At just 11 miles from the International Airport, nearby main city attractions such as the archeological site Huaca Pucllana, the splendid boardwalk, and the bohemian district of Barranco. Adjacent to the hotel, the brand new gastronomic boulevard attract locals and visitors from all points of the compass. I made it down to the ocean front walk and strolled along the boardwalk to work out all the kinks from my back and butt. It was chilly with a brisk breeze blowing off the waves but it did the trick, I felt so much better by the time I returned to the hotel. Time for another latte up in the lounge and once again, enjoyed a light meal of fresh fruit and finger sandwiches, sitting on the rooftop terrace along with a couple of other hotel guests. This is where I am drinking my coffee:

By early afternoon the weather started to change for the worse, thick scudding clouds with light rain and chilly breezes not exactly a beach day, so I opted for a comfy plush chair in the lounge with my Kindle for company. Got talking to the receptionist who arranged for a late checkout until 6pm on Sunday. My transfer back to the airport is at 9:30pm with a 1am flight to Atlanta - you can guess where I will be spending that entire evening!

Darkness comes early in the southern hemisphere and by 5pm dusk has fallen with the city lights sparkling across my window viewpoint. Temperature has dropped to the high 50’s and light rain is still falling. Good evening to spend in the lounge, enjoying the dinner buffet and a few Pisco Sours. For those of you not familiar with the national drink of Chile and Peru, it is a cocktail named for the base liquor Pisco (brandy) and Sour for the lime juice, simple syrup and egg white additives. These contents are shaken and strained into an Old Fashioned glass and garnished with Angostura Bitters. This drink is a “face planter” or at least it is for me. Two or three of these bad boys will result in your nose kissing the carpet – you can figure out the rest. But they taste wonderful and I only have a few feet to stagger back to my room……LOL

Dinner in the lounge was delicious…..choice of chicken tenders (I passed on those) and a very tasty Peruvian stew, consisting of large chunks of beef in a light braised gravy, along with onions and peppers. Perfectly spiced and served on a bed of fluffy white rice with raisins and pine nuts. Dessert was a tiny portion of caramel flan topped with whipped cream and chocolate slivers- so much for a “light dinner buffet” I really enjoyed it. Jorge was tonight’s bar tender and was eagerly shaking up Pisco Sours as if in contention for Peru’s Cocktail Mixer of the Year…..after 3 of those I called it a night and headed back to the room. Luis and Joel (floor housekeepers) were finishing up with their evening service - had restocked the bathroom with toiletries and turned down the sheets – leaving a couple of chocolate drops on the pillow. No doubt another fabulous night’s slumber is within reach.

That was exactly what happened and I awoke totally refreshed at 9am Sunday morning. Grey and overcast outside but no rain. It’s going to be a long 2 days as my flights home begin at 1am tomorrow with an arrival in Las Vegas around 4pm. First on the agenda was to arrange a late checkout and then breakfast up in the lounge. Interesting menu…..bite-sized hunks of ham, cherry tomatoes, mushrooms, onions and peppers glazed in a very light honey sauce and a choice of hard-boiled or scrambled eggs…..I’m assuming the veggies were carried over from last night’s Peruvian stew, but that’s just me. Bowls of fresh seasonal fruits, yogurts, various sweet rolls and a tray of assorted cheeses. I was happy with the cappuccino machine and had three cups to get the old eyes open.

Much of the overcast had cleared by the time I returned to the room, so decided to take the 3-hour bus tour of the city. I have done this previously but there is always something new and interesting to see. A 4-block walk from the hotel and I arrived at the bus pickup point, in front of the Larcomar Mall and Miraflores Casino. The tour covers four centuries of history in a short time. Departing from Larcomar, first stop was the stunning Huaca Pucllana, an aboriginal print of ancient Lima. It was built over 1,500 years ago and the Incas used to worship the sea inside its strong temples and palaces. The bus continued to the old historic city center, a World Heritage site. Here is the republican San Martin Square and exquisite surroundings, with the emblematic Bolivar Hotel and the aristocratic "Club Nacional." The historic Main Square is the very heart of Lima, also known as City of the Kings. A stop at the Cathedral displayed its allure and its grand baroque facade which is made of stone, as well as the Government's Palace. Gorgeous portals of the Scribes and the Buttoners surround the square, and it’s hard to ignore the elegant fountain of bronze of the Salvatierra Count.

Next up was the magnificent church of Saint Augustine with its carved portal of Solomonic columns and its charming small square. The architectural beauty of the religious compound of San Francisco is impressive, and walking through its cloisters and temple, along with its impressive underground vaults known as the catacombs, echoed back to the Spanish colonial period. Finally a drive thru modern Lima to the famous Love Park in Miraflores right on the ocean front, and just a few blocks from the Hilton. Just enough time to shower, dress and pack my bag before checking out and spending the next few hours up in the lounge, until my limo arrives at 9:30pm to transport me to the airport and my flights home. It’s been another great sojourn, collected a boatload of Hilton points, Delta Skymiles and enjoyed cool, humid temperatures away from the Vegas desert heat. But it will be good to be home and sleeping in my own bed. Adios Lima and bienvenida to the USA…..fingers crossed Atlanta’s TSA people are feeling magnanimous and let me back in! LOL. Stay tuned for the next adventure coming up in late September!

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