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I´ve received quite a bit of e-mail inquiring about why the blog and I have been MIA these last few days. Well, we´ve been eating, of course, and trying to refuel from all the volunteering, bus rides, and relentless self-reflection. Here´s a roundup of restaurants I have visited.
Brujas de Cachiche (Miraflores): Great recommendation from Kate M. The restaurant is contemporary gorgeous both inside and out, and there´s a cute bar in front where you can order a pre-dinner pisco sour. On our server´s recommendation, I had Seco de Res a la Limena--ribs and onions stewed with coriander, garlic, and chili and served with beans and rice. Dessert was Suspiro a la Limena--carmel-flavored custard topped with meringue. Everything was excellent and the server said I spoke Spanish well--a complete lie, of course, but he gets a shout out for the compliment. The restaurant is a little pricey, but worth it for those looking for a really nice Peruvian meal. The bill was S.128 for two (2 drinks, 2 entrees, one dessert, plus cover), which is a little less than $50. I would definitely recommend this place, although my only complaint is that the clientele was a bit touristy; aka, there seemed to be an awful lot of camera-happy Americans wearing fanny packs running around. But as a fellow camera-happy American (sans fanny pack, pul-ease), I suppose some would say that I fit right in.
LA73 (Barranco): This is definitely my favorite restaurant in Lima. It reminds me of a place you would find in New York or maybe Rome. Its hip and laidback with cool artwork, French music playing in the background, and a great patio out front. Plus, it is very affordable. We had delicious lomo saltado but the highlight of the meal was definitely the churros--slender deep fried pastries filled with caramel and served with melted chocolate (I strongly doubt that churros have anything to do with Peru, but I could care less and you would too if you could try them). I liked this dessert so much that I may have broken my cardinal rule of eating out in a foreign country and gone BACK to eat it again--you know, just to be SURE that I was accurate in terms of my recommendation.
Starbucks (LarcoMar, Miraflores): Ah, yes. The sight of one of my all-time most embarrassing Spanish-speaking moments for sure. (Hold your judgement with visiting Starbucks in a foreign country. I have been more than up front with my addiction, and plus it reminds me of home and all of you.) I order an alto mocha descafeinado con leche light (tall decaffinated mocha with skim milk) and could not have been more proud of myself for ordering in Spanish. I fork over the money--Starbucks is just as expensive here as it is in the States--when the barrista asks me a question in Spanish. I dont understand so I ask him to repeat. He does. Still no clue what in the world he is talking about. So I do what I usually do when I cant understand--I begin speaking words and phrases that I know in Spanish hoping that one of them will make sense and answer his question. I figured he must be asking what country I am from (because that´s what everyone down here asks) so I launch into my life story of growing up in Chicago complete with gestures to indicate that it is located in the middle of the US. He stares at me for a long time and then without smiling or even blinking picks up a bottle from the counter and shows it to me. He did not want to know my life story or where I reside. Rather, he wants to know if I wanted whipped cream on my mocha. Oops. Tail between my legs as I run out utterly mortified.
Como Agua Para Chocolate (San Isidro): Mexican food in Peru?? No I wasn´t confused, I just couldnt resist this place because its named after a great movie--Like Water for Chocolate. Plus, the restaurant I really wanted to go to across the street but closed for a private party so I had little choice in the matter. Its a good bet if you are craving Mexican food, although I´d stay away from the guacamole, which I think they make with mayo???? Unacceptable. Cute atmostphere, though, and nice staff.
Songoro Cosono: I met the owner of this place one afternoon while walking around Barranco, and he invited me in to see his restaurant and practice his English over pisco sours. We went back a few nights later to check out the dinner scene. This place is located in an old mansion that belonged to the owner´s mother. It has terrific, homemade criollo food that´s really affordable. We had pollo a la plancha (which is basically just grilled chicken but really good), something that looked like a tamale, and causa, which is potato stuffed with chicken and mayo (gross-sounding, right? but trust me it was really delicious). Apparently, they have sporadic (his words) live music on random nights, but unfortunately, this was no such night. We still had a good time, though.
Tanta: One of the most famous and high-end restaurants down here is called Astrid and Gaston. Well, Tanta (several locations), is by the same two chefs, but its a more affordable, cafe-style place. We didn´t really get to try the regular food because we arrived a little late and the staff was giving us the evil eye and threatening to put local ice in our drinks. But we did order some great desserts (lacuma brownie!) and some fantastic yellow potato fries.
And that´s only just the tip of the iceberg of what Ive eaten down here. Unfortunately, I´m sort of burnout on this roundup of restauants. Dunno why I thought it would be a good idea to write this one...I feel like I´m at work.
I downloaded even more photos! Check them out
here.
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