Nine Million People

---

On the way into the city we pass thousands upon thousands of homes hugging the hills on both sides of the highway into the city. The sun had set. We were to find our way in the dark. I HATE that.
We drive into the truck park and take what we will need for the next few days.

There are 9 million people in Lima. They all seem to be out in their cars or on the street.

Getting a taxi to take us to the hotel is a major challenge. We are caught up in the most horrendous traffic jam ever. A most important church procession is taking place at the centre of the city … exactly where we are heading. The traffic is so bad the taxi man lets us out and tells us how to walk to the hotel.

An expensive restaurant awaits. Four of us are in one room. Being the last one in the room I get the bed in the worst position … right next to the door. The shower is good except for the long brown hair that one particular person always leaves behind. I have shared rooms with her often enough to know it is her.

Saturday morning and the first thing on the list as usual is ‘Laundry’. The hotel suggests a not too cheap one. Peru it will be seen is an expensive place.

I wander all around the historical centre. In the Post Office Building I buy a map. The beauty of the iron work in the skylight I attempt to catch in my shots. More wandering brings me to the river side, over the bridge and then into the main square.

After a café negro and an ill prepared soup it’s more wandering.

Was attracted by a poster of a painting of a Peruvian Pueblo Man by an artist of Japanese heritage who works out of Cusco. Entered the building and discovered the Santo Marcos University which was begun by the Jesuits. A young girl took me all around and told me the story of wars with Chile; horses in the meeting room of the Jesuits; the loss of important Peruvian books and records that Chile refuses too return; the restoration of rooms paying homage to important religious women and the refurbishing of the courtyards that continue to be meeting places for students. Besides getting a complete history of the Uni the girl and I also walked thru two exhibits of paintings. The Japanese painter is definitely the better of the two. Norichike, Norichiko, Noriake … cannot remember the exact name… have tried to find him on Internet…will have to look harder when I reach Cusco.

In the garden-park outside the Uni building I speak to two kids about this and that. After saying goodbye they suddenly reappear and warn me about robbers who might have an interest in my camera. I assure them that I zip the camera into the vest pocket of my jacket. After a hearty handshake we bid each other adios a second time.

Went to an absolutely sad market. Had a coffee and cheese bun and the woman behind the tiny counter passed me a bad S/10. Tried to pass it off again but was unsuccessful. Check every bill that comes into my hand! Because the truck had to be serviced we have a bit more time in Lima.

Sunday October the 21st is CENSUS DAY! Everything! Everything is closed. All the citizens are to be in their homes from 800 AM till 6:00 PM. If seen on the street police will ask why and even arrest people. I read the questions.
How many persons cook in this house?
What type of floor do you have - dirt, wood, cement, laminate, hardwood ….
Where do you live - company home, rented home, mortgaged home, paid for home ….
Which of the following devices do you have - cell phone, TV, radio, DVD player …
How many children have been born to you?
How many live children do you have?
How many children did you have before the age of 24?

Question 19 asks, “Can you read and write?”

Persons go from house to house to ask the questions and fill in the answers. The people staying at hotels are also to be questioned but no one ever asks me anything.

Going to a museum 20 minutes away seems a bit dicey. What if no taxi is available when I want to come back? Outside all the shops are shuttered and live television coverage find few people on the street. I spent the day in the restaurant working on my blogs and email.

I visit the Cathedral, see the changing of the guard, view a stamp exhibit, congratulate a newly married couple as they leave the church, wait for little people to go to their first communion, get my bent out of shape glasses fixed, walk down a street where the real people live and shop and go into the public library to see an exhibit about Grau.

The city is beyond huge. I walk across the bridge but when I see the dankness, the closeness and the wretchedness of the other side I make a 180’ turn and go back to the historical centre. I do not get to Miraflores which when I drive by I notice is gated and guarded and beyond the reach of the millions seen living in the brown brick boxes along the highway al the way to the tops of the mountains surrounding Lima.

The truck has had its wheels balanced and the brakes have been checked. We leave Lima at 1:00 and arrive in Paracas in late afternoon. Why we are staying here overnight I know not.

---

Photos

Soles Falso
The face you see is the face that gave me a counterfit ten soles note.

El Chasqui
The messenger ran with the news along the Inca Trail too bring reports to the highest reaches of the empire.

The Man Who Saved Lima
Forget the man's name but he is important enough to have his own corner in the church museum.

Elegant Balconies
Lima is famous for its many beautifully carved wooden balconies. Some are totally falling apart; in the historical tourist area all have been painstakingly refurbished.

Intricate Tile Mosaic
In the main Cathedral there is one room totally finished in mosaic tiles.

Carved Stand Up Seat
When the services went on for a long time these seats were utilized to make standing more comfortable. The carving is exquisite.

Flower Spray
Four of these 1.5 m long sprays of yellow and white flowers were on their way into the Cathedral.

Fancy Cakes
There are many shops with absolutely gorgeous cakes in the window ... only problem ... too too sweet!

National Treasure
This is a famous sweetness. It is even sold in the Supermercado and on the street. This one seemsto be s speciality of this bake shop and Dona Pepais takingall the credit.

Street Construction
Many parts of the historic centre is having the streets improved. The sidewalks were safe and traffic lights were obeyed ... sometimes.

Expensive Beads
Wanted beads the length of my hand ... they cost $10 .. I put them back.

What Went Wrong Here?
This is the best looking mannequin seen so far. Most of the mannequins on display are more than ugly.