Lima the Ugly

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So, Mike wanted to check out a colonial hospital in Lima that he read about in a couple of archaeology articles. Thus, we arranged for a one-night stay in Lima, with a solid afternoon to find what he wanted. Mike didn't actually know where the hospital was, but as usual, impressed me by tracking down an approximate location and finding the actual building by talking to local people.

Unfortunately, the colonial hospitals he was looking for are in a rather seedy part of Lima: no tourists here. One of the locals even approached us and warned us, IN ENGLISH, to be careful, due to the many thieves in the area. I spent the rest of my time looking over my shoulder, keeping my hands in my pockets, and trying to walk purposefully as Mike wandered around looking for stuff. No matter what I did, I couldn't help the fact that I just don't look Peruvian, so we attracted a few strange looks from people as Mike took photos of old-looking buildings in Old Lima. Miraculously, we managed to get back to the hotel without getting robbed, or arrested by the director of the school that now occupies the colonial hospital. Considering a National Police officer was the one who talked us into the building in the first place, there wasn't much to worry about.

I also have to tell you about our bus ride from the airport to our hotel. We picked a hotel from the Lonely Planet with a lot of character: Hostal Espana. The service was described as “abrupt”, which basically means it's quick and relatively painless, but don't expect a lot of warmth. On the other hand, the guy in the internet place in the hotel was extremely helpful to Mike and helped him find the hospital he was looking for. After getting off the plane and getting my bag (yay not lost!), we agreed to get a ride from the bus company standing by the baggage claim, and quite strongly offering us their services, in typical Peruvian fashion. The bus driver got into a bit of a disagreement with the national police on our way out of the airport, which was the first warning sign. Our hotel was probably closest to the airport, yet our bus driver decided to head all the way out to the tourist suburbs for the other 2 destinations. By the time we were the last ones on the bus, I really had to pee, and the bus driver tried to convince us that we should look for a hotel in the part of the city we were already in. I was annoyed. Mike talked him into continuing to our original destination, and I tried to distract myself by following our progress on the map of Lima in the Lonely Planet. Our driver managed to completely avoid the expressway and took a rather circuitous route to the hotel. I was really annoyed. He either knew something we didn't about traffic in the city, or he was being a jerk because we made him drive all over town before going back to the airport. Typically pushy, like a lot of the services we encountered in Peru.

Fortunately, not all Peruvians are annoying, although few of them are shy. Our waiter at the restaurant for dinner was very friendly and chatty, at least with Mike - my Spanish is still not up to conversation level, but I can usually order food and bargain well enough. Nevertheless, I will be glad to be back in Ecuador. Although things in Ecuador can be frustratingly slow, it is a lot more relaxed.

As a city, Lima is pretty gross: lots of pollution and possibly dirtier streets than Quito. Compared to other parts of Peru, it is definitely harder on the eyes. This was the "capital" established by the Spanish, who wanted a port city for their navy. Apparently, even local Peruvians from outside the city call it "Lima the ugly".

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Photos

Lima Fountain in Plaza De Armas
I had a tough time trying to take this picture without people walking in front of me. One stranger walked right up to Mike and started talking to him, wanting to practice his english. Weird.

Comments

[El Peruano]

Another arrogant visitor...
Hello Jonovision, Do you what's the problem of people like you? that you come from "gringoland" expecting that the whole world is made to meet your particular taste. You were so afraid in Lima, poor you... and so shocked when someone spoke to you IN ENGLISH!... what now do you think Peruvians can't learn other languages? what's up with your shallow mind mister scientist? Now, I might sound upset. Well, yes I just read this part of your post : "Fortunately, not all Peruvians are annoying" Perhaps not as annoying and paranoid as you sound. Obviously Lima is so ugly it requieres only the visit of less sterotypical and open minded people. Perhaps you are afraid of dangerous cities? I recommend you to begin an intensive training tour in NYC, Newark, DC, Detroit or LA for starters. Sincerely, Annoyed Peruvian.

[Matthew Papworth]

La Hermosa Lima
I as well as my Peruvian friend think this to be a most unintelligible comment, now I am an American From New York, But I used to Live in Lima, actually near what they call, Barrios Altos, or El Centro,(downtown area) Near to where you were... Just thought that, thought and just that I'd give, so first let me say that you made such a mistake by publicizing such a thought which held such a well reflection to that of Idiocy, and was it necessary to compare Quito to Lima, Such a Comparison is not fair because Lima is quite incomparable, but as you stand to confirm, someone as yourself cannot see such beauty, especially one whose probably from the Suburbs anyway, and also, I’d like to know if you could get back to me, Mr. easily annoyed by people who haven’t yet perfected their other languages, how many do you speak yourself (white, American, and English counts as one) but all this I hope shall be for your learning... And by the way, I’m the guy who gets annoyed with people like you thinking that such a people as these are more so than you.... So please keep in your what appears to be so closed and almost hopeless mind, within such must lie a reason as to why I would waste my time, have it be just a little constructive Criticism for most sporadic is for me to insult a man so you may better, and never please never let others make you feel better, especially when within them lye your strength.... that For one to think himself as more civilized than his brother, here may be born his own demise... next time, Don’t go away from home for to long of an extended period of time in order to prevent such atrocious conditions from occurring, to such an individual as yourself…. Insincerely Matthew Papworth- [e-mail]

[jonovision]

Carification (or inflamation)?
I apologize if other Lima residents (or Peruvians) felt slighted by my comments, but I can´t change the fact that I just didn´t really enjoy myself during the afternoon I spent in Lima (and that horrible night in the airport, but a night in any airport is pretty crappy). I also found these 2 comments obviously harsh, but admittedly difficult to understand, other than the outraged tone. It´s too bad you think I´m arrogant, but your comments really don´t make me feel any more affection towards Lima. I don´t hate all Peruvians, or expect them to behave in the middle-class manner I grew up in. My comments are just one perspective. I prefered Cuzco to Lima for sheer atmosphere. Some of the people we met were quite nice and surprisingly friendly. I don´t find all Peruvians "annoying". Perhaps that was a poor choice of words. But, we did find that many of those whose livelihoods depended on tourists (shoe-shiners, restaurant owners, travel agents, etc.) were relatively pushy, compared to what I experienced in Ecuador. That´s the only other South American country I have as a reference point. As for the safety aspect, Mike and I were in a part of the city that was not very safe for tourists. That´s what the person on the street told us. We were a little suprised that a complete stranger (obviously a local resident)warned us and spoke in english, since we were accustomed to speaking to people in Spanish. I don´t think so little of peruvians that they can´t speak other languages, Indeed, many of the people we encountered in Cuzco spoke english to us, perhaps an indication at the sheer number of english-speaking tourists who visit the area. But it is nonetheless a bit suprising when you are in a foreign country where another language is more prevalent, to be approached in what is locally a foreign language. We obviously stood out as tourists out of place, and this event was a reminder of that fact. We were defintely grateful for the warning, and the actions I took were precautionary and is good practice for tourists anywhere, particularly in areas that have a history of tourists getting mugged, robbed, etc. I have since been surprised by stories from fellow travellers of close calls with robbery even in Quito, where I have felt relatively safe. Given the situations I have been in on this trip, I am grateful and amazed that I have not had anything stolen, although I had accepted that it was a likely eventuality. So far, so good (touch wood). For the record, French and English are both my mother tongues, and I have studied Latin. Unfortunately, I haven´t time to learn Spanish to a conversational level, but I am surprised at how much I can understand, given the similarities with languages I am familiar with. I have been surprised at how easy it is to get around in this area without having to be fluent in Spanish and I would encourage others to travel even if you don´t speak the local language perfectly - it is still a worthwhile experience. Speaking the local language is definitely easier, and opens up a great many more opportunities to get to know the people you meet. But that is for another discussion...

[jonovision]

BTW, I´m Canadian
After reading some comments and other blog entries, I thought I should also add that I am, in fact, Canadian, NOT American. It seems to be a common fact that many citizens don´t like to be compared (or worse, mistaken for) a member of a neighboring country (i.e., Peru and Ecuador, Canada and the U.S., Finland and Sweden, that I´m aware of). There are often subtle, but important differences, even if they are mainly cases of self-perception. Such rivalries can sometimes be the most deep-seeded. It´s not that I think I´m better than ALL Americans (I have good friends who are American), or any other country, for tha matter. But I am happy and proud to be Canadian and living in Canada, with all its qualities, good and bad.

[Omar]

Lame...
I just ran into this travel log... I wasn't gonna write anything in the comments sections after I read the idiotic words coming from jonovision. But before I close the window, I read one of the pictures that comment about a stranger talking to Mike wanting to practice his English.. and the comment from Jonovision of Weirdness. OMG, you should not visit Peru anymore. Peru is known in the traveller's community by its unusual hospitality to the tourists. Most tourists would find a stranger talking to us in our native language.. super cute and nice. Not you though. Make us all a favor and do not go back to Lima, if you gonna rate a city in an afternoon visit, when Lima was considered the most cosmopolitan, cultured, rich city in the Americas for centuries.

[Casselli]

Blah blah
I find this blog as an insult to the city which it was called by the spaniards "City of Kings"; perhaps you haven't visited cities such as miami, detroit, washington...etc. Many of these cities are ugly as well!! I will not over protect Lima because even do I'am limean I dont find Lima pretty neither. In fact I find lima ugly as well but if by any reason you are going to visit another country and do not like what you see you may described in a less insulting way. Reporting from Montreal, Canada one of the most beautiful cities and a lot better than any other city in USA well maybe not better than San francisco. Ciao