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Published: January 31st 2010
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Woke up really early and checked the internet for interesting places to visit today, Had a small breakfast, dropped off the laundry and jumped a cab into the old town, We got out at the Plaza de Armas, What a beautiful Plaza, The colonial style buildings are a testament of the opulence of the Spanish Empire of that time. Intricate wooden lattice gives way to the fruits of the master stonemasons hands. We abandoned the Plaza in favour of a guided tour of the Iglesia de San Francisco. This is a Franciscan monastery built in the 16th century, Rich decor in goldleaf and amazing stone work, master carpentry and opulent tapestries line the walls and ceilings, 400 year old spanish tiles surround painting of tortured souls and important dieties, some of the recently uncovered painting which for centuries have been painted over and their whereabouts unknown have had the faces of the people in them removed, Our guide told us that no-one really knows why.
In one room there is housed the stations of the cross, the fruits of the artistic hands of the students of the famous Ruben, That particular chapel also contains the remains of the monastery's main
benefactor, His skeleton laying intact and uncovered in a crypt in the floor of the chapel. Also in this Chapel a beautiful gold tabernacle the work of a hugely talented goldsmith. Looking at the riches in these chapels, one can't help but wonder about the poor people who resided outside these walls, The monks comforts and offerings to their god and saints was more important than the stomachs of the faithful outside the monastery.
The tour concluded with a walk underground in the burial catacombs containing the remains of what is estimated to be 25 000 unfortunate souls. Bones from different areas of the skeleton are separated into sunken troughs that line the walkways, femurs with femurs, pelvises with pelvises, sculls with sculls ect. The catacombs were opened in the 50s to the general public and the bones where separated then. It is said that the Franciscans and the common folk of Lima were buried here for years although in different crypts, only the monks were allowed into the catacombs, this practice continued for years until an above ground cemetery was allocated and the catacombs ceased to be used.
The ceilings of the catacombs is very low and
the walls thick, being subterranean there is no natural light which enhances the already eerie feeling that you get on entering the tombs, I was feeling a wee bit claustrophobic and although I found the whole experience fascinating I must admit I was glad to emerge into the light of day.
Back in the Plaza de Armas blue and red bedecked guards prepared for the daily changing of the guards which takes place at 12 noon outside the government Palace. A full marching band trooped out playing a marching anthem, unsmiling faces played as long shiny boots lifted off the ground and high into the air in perfect unison to the beat, They marched around the interior of the palace grounds and stopped at the front gates where we gringos stood like obedient school children. They stopped playing and rearranged themselves and strangely enough started to play rousing playful jazz tunes, this was a bit of a turn up for the books as the occasion had began as a very somber event, Bizarrely this whole event took place under the watchful eye of a row of armed riot police, fully kitted up, Still don't know why they were there
although one of them told me that President Garcia was in residence at the time.
We grabbed empanadas and Inca kola and headed for the Pre-Inca Museum called Museo Larco, named after the archeologist who found most of the exhibits. After an extortionate coffee at $5 each we headed for the Incan Erotic Museum, now this is an interesting place, not for the faint hearted or children unless you want a torrent of complicated questions you may not be ready to answer. It is very graphic and the Incans it would appear had no hangups about their sexuality. The first part of the exhibit concentrates on sexual images that one would assume are geared towards fertility and conception, so you are left assuming that they were to enhance the chances of conception after all lots of ancient societies have symbols of fertility, mmmm fair enough but not so for our naughty Incans because as you continue further there are lots of images of other sexual positions and practices that most certainly do not lead to conception, especially the ones where there are more than 2 parties taking part in the festivities and others involving members of the animal kingdom.
It would appear that these boyos had a grand old time to themselves between the sheets.
We continued on into the main exhibition which begins by explaining the different dynasties and where in the country they hailed from. It started with the pottery one could not help marvel at these peoples talents, some of the artifacts date back some 5000 years, they are beautiful and artistically complicated leaving the viewer to wonder about the superior intellect and forward thinking capacities of these people.
The pottery on display depict scenes from daily life, the earlier people worshipped the bird the feline and the serpent and these images show up time and time again.
Life-like images of warriors and dignitaries are in the next exhibit, its sobering and somewhat strange to look into the face of a man who died 3000 years ago.
The textiles were next and were probably my favourite, the fine needlepoint is amazing and to think some of it is 1500 years old.
The gold and silver is amazing and these people wore these pieces according to their standing in society, the more elaborate the more important the bearer, Necklaces, rings, earplugs (some the size of small
saucers which were worn through the lobes) and headdresses that stood a foot or more above the head it would seem it was a feat of balance to wear such articles, these pieces also often showed scenes from everyday life, The whole exhibit spanned from 5000 years ago to the beginning of the spanish empire where one sees more images of gods made in man's image.
Without a doubt these folks were advanced in so many ways and in my opinion it was their tradespeople who for us now, represented their talents.
We headed back tired and happy, had a quick dinner and an early night.
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