Lima - Churches & Chargers

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We both woke around 0700 and headed into Barranco to fill in some time until breakfast was served at our hostel at 0800. As in Argentina, the Peruvians are late risers so whilst the traffic heading towards Lima Central was heavy, most of the shops were closed and there were very few locals hanging around. I had an empanada from a dairy that cost S1.00 (NZ$0.50). Empanadas are the local equivalent to a meat pie and look like pasties. They are deep fried usually and can have mince or chicken. The one I had was pretty good and the right price.

Back at the hostel for breakfast, we asked one of the staff about getting a taxi into Lima central and were told that the local price was S10 (NZ$5) - we expected to pay the tourist price but were keen to get a yardstick from which to judge our level of rip-offedness ™. Our first four or five attempts at getting a taxi were unsuccessful as (working from the sign language) the drivers did not want to go all the way into the city at rush hour. We did eventually manage to find a bloke to take us and he suggested S10! We accepted and confirmed via sign language that this was the price for both of us. In heavy traffic, the trip took us almost an hour so Jo and I we’re a tad concerned that we’d misheard the price. NZ$5 for an hour in a cab? The traffic finally got so heavy that we asked (well, signalled) to be let off a few blocks early. We paid the driver S15 and he drove off happily waving as he left.

Plaza de Armas was our first stop and is home to Palacio de Gobernio - the Presidential residence, La Cathedral de Lima and an array of impressive buildings along with the obligatory South American man on a horse statue.

It was just a few minutes before Monasterio de San Francisco was due to open so we fought our way a few blocks through street sellers and were there in time for the 0945 English language tour. As we got there so early (by both Peruvian and gringo backpacker standards) it was just Jo and I on the tour S5 (NZ$2.50), We were shown through the many chapels and meeting rooms with 16th century artwork adorning the walls. Taking up a full wall was a South American interpretation of ´The Last Supper´ in which servant boys served local foods and a devil whispered in Judas´ ear. The only thing missing was a market selling Inka Kola T-Shirts and earrings. Then the highlight - the catacombs.

Up to 70,000 people are buried under the monastery and as archaeologists work they are collecting and categorising the bones. The area where the skulls were was spooky as they were arranged looking right back at you.

The changing of the guards at Palacio de Gobernio at noon involved a brass band and much fanfare (from what I could see through the gates and armed police with riot shields) and was much the same as any other guards changing anywhere else in the world.

A block or so from Monasterio de San Francisco is Parque de la Muralla where parts of the original Lima city walls have been excavated. We took a look around for ten minutes or so before getting an ice-cream S1 (NZ$0.50) single scoop and having a pee S0.50 (NZ$0.25).

We walked south toward Plaza Bolivar to find the Spanish Inquisition Museum but three block of Av. Abanacay were barricaded and armed police by the bus load were ensuring no one got through. We could hear a bloke on a megaphone and chants of agreement every now and then but had no idea what was going on. After wandering three blocks out of our way to get to the Museo de la Inquisicion we were told it would be a half hour wait and as the area we were in was a bit dodgy and the police wouldn’t even let us cross the road I filled in a bit of time taking photos of the congress building opposite us. About ten minutes later the police temporarily opened the barricade so we took the opportunity to try and sneak closer to the protest. I managed to snap a few pics of some pissed off looking politicians leaving in a media scrum and get some video of the protest before we retreated to safety behind the barricades.

Whilst waiting at Museo de la Inquisicion we were approached by a well dressed bloke who started up a conversation with us as his English teacher had encouraged him to seek out English speakers to practise with. We managed to get it out of him that the protest was an anti-globalisation meeting.

Our English tour of Museo de la Inquisicion could have been in Belarussian for all we know. Jo and I nodded and ahhhed every few minutes on the odd occasion we understood what was being said. The museum used wax models to portray the trial and torture systems the Spanish Inquisition used. The price was right though - gratis (FREE!).

After walking back for one last look at Plaza de Armas we caught a cab to Miraflores S10 (NZ$5) and walked through a market where Jo bought three of those stupid Peruvian beanie things S10 each (NZ$5) and I bought an Inka Kola T-shirt S12 (NZ$6). I’m yet to see a Peruvian wearing either but we’ve come across several gringo in them. As I was trying to take some photos my battery ran out and I realised the backup wasn’t charged either.

We caught a cab back to Barranco’s Backpacker Inn where I discovered I’d packed the wrong battery charger and we were faced with having no photos for the rest of the trip. Whilst I was keeping busy in the world famous MikeCrisis ™, Jo got on the internet and found an address for a Canon dealer in Lima and arranged for the girl at the hostel to call them. During the call a Canadian couple (who live in Adelaide) returned for the day and as luck would have it the bloke had the same battery and the right charger. No sooner had I plugged it in that the girl gave us an address and a price S195 (NZ$100) and told us that they closed at 2100.

We managed to find a cab belonging to Peru’s slowest driver but he was a good bloke and the 40 minute journey cost S10 (NZ$5). Jo spent the trip practising Spanish for “Please wait - we will return to Barranco”, so the driver found a park and pointed us in the right direction - all without taking a cent and trusting that we would return. There were a few people in front of us in the queue so Jo went back to the taxi and gave the guy a cigarette and they waited 15 minutes until I returned - relieved and with charger in hand. The return trip also cost S10 but we tipped him S10 also.

Once back we bumped into Sam and Jenaya, two kiwis we had met the previous day. They were heading out for a beer and a feed with a couple of Yankee girls so we tagged along. Between us we had a platter for four, two ceviche for Jo and I and five litres of beer and a Sangria for S210 (NZ$105 between 6). We continued to another pub and had ten more litres of beer (they are served in carafes) and a free Pisco Sour (Peruvian brandy with lime juice and egg whites).

We finally got to sleep at 0200.

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