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Published: January 28th 2008
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Nervously excited for everything in and around
Cusco with its historical centre and Machu Picchu. The first few days I wandered around in the beautiful centre of Cusco, I've seen a lot of original dressed up indigenous people, I met up again with Sebastián. There is lots of history spread all over this place. I ate in a 'mercado', which I always enjoy this because of the wide-range of things going on there. You can buy clothes, fruits, meat, whole pigs, you can have lunch. I ate there twice and if so you shouldn't think too much; the food is lying there without any cooling or lid, with flies all around it for several hours at least. Besides the lady in question will serve you by putting the food on your plate with her bare hands. Don't look at her hands and nails, don't think about the fact that you know what the toilets look like, the lack of toilet paper and most likely lack of running water. If you follow these rules, it´s amazing. The food does taste great, will certainly be enough, includes a drink and you everywhere around you there are things happening, it will be hard to
take it all in. I love just sitting there, eat and stare. Cusco is also known for it's night life. I did a little wiggle in 4 places. And in between, seriously everywhere everybody, is asking you the same question: 'marihuana, cocaina, marihuana?' I found out that the drink Fernet is disgusting, that locals are not that good-looking, that Sebastián is nice company, and tourist are everywhere the same. 3 nights later I left towards
Machu Picchu, not by really expensive train nor the really expensive and touristy Inca trail, but another way. It took me over 13 hours, 5 buses and a walk for 2,5 hours on to the railway track on the sleepers. The road at some stretches was half washed away or half covered by rocks because of slides, all caused by heavenly rainfall. This made the trip not the nicest. Every now and then I was with my eyes wide open watching the road in front of me, especially when I was sitting next to the driver. Normally I aim for these spots with panoramic view, but this time unwanted. It's a shame normally this would be such a beautiful road with views on mountains, passing
by waterfalls, rock formations, through jungle, passing banana trees and cute villages, crossing rivers. Those rivers were now
over the road, instead of underneath. We had to walk a part because more than half of the road was gone and the rest covered with rocks, next to all this the canyon; pretty but now a bit scary and too close. Also the driver of the second last part was a clumsy threat; seriously a child can drive better. Turning on the screen wipers instead of the indicator, almost switched the key of the ignition instead of putting up the volume of the radio
and not watching the road ahead but the views. And again in this part I was the lucky one who sat (more folded actually) next to him. The last bit was, as mentioned, 2,5 hours walking on the sleepers in the dark; I was really relieved when we arrived totally damp and tired in
Aguas Calientes. I had to sleep in my damp clothes to dry them before my 5am rise and shine.
Getting up tis early and ready to go to thé
Machu Picchu. I thought I could buy some food and drinks along
the road and finish breakfast before entering the park, as you're not allowed to bring anything
in the park. Well guess again, both are not true, no selling of anything and no checking bags at entry (DAMN´IT). So I hiked for 50 minutes, straight up. Went in and... only see clouds. I climbed up Wayna Picchu; from here it's apparently amazing when you see the clouds disappear and you can see whole Machu Picchu from above. Which is in the shape of a condor. I hike up, saw some colibries(love!), saw pretty flowers, I had to catch my breath now and then, I got almost stuck in between rocks and got totally damp at the top. Formed by a nice aromatic mixture of clouds, rain and sweat. I waited here for 2 hours, being cold and hungry, hoping it would clear up. Nothing of this all. I was so disappointed. I decided defeated to hike down to see the rest and get something to eat. I hiked another route back across the caves and the temple of the moon. Long long hike, first a lot of downhill with nobody around, I totally missed the caves. I have no clue how.
Followed by a lot of up hiking again to arrive back at the entrance of Wayna Picchu after being awake and walking for almost 6 hours with no food or drinks. I knew I couldn't do the climb again. I walked around Machu Picchu and left. My final statement is; Machu Picchu shouldn't be missed, it is impressive, it is above expectations, it is miraculous how they did, how huge it is and how beautiful surroundings are. There is a 'but', I felt defeated by the bad weather and the lack of views because of it, also of course the hunger and being wet and cold. My favourite is still Tikal, Guaemala.
The decision on how get back gave me a headache. I was doubting; the same way or train. The train is so expensive, but it had also been raining so much more and the road was already deadly dangerous when I came. When I spoke to an Argentinean, he told me he heard on the radio that this morning a bus fell in the canyon on a part I remembered really well, all passengers died. Decision was made, no way I will put my life in danger,
and besides I was worried about some people who were supposed to do the same way like me to come to M.P.
Back in Cusco the people who were on my mind were still there and thus safe. I met a Dutchie(Karst) in my dorm and I ran into Louis again. He is from a project which I visited bringing Karst along with me. The project ´nuevo amanecer´is a house for homeless and ´lost´ people, with an addiction. mostly sniffing glue and/or alcohol. We were impressed by the amount of people in this house(29) the ages(youngest 12, sniffing glue) and how they survived. We gave them rice and pasta for a week. I had a temporary good bye from my Argentinean friend. I ate Cuy (=guinea pig), which was a whole other experience; the serve the entire animal: head, teeth, ears, feet, nails. After picture moment and some great laughs we started eating it. It is nice tasting meat, not that much though on the little creature though. We had some dissecting opportunities as well; Karst is studying medicines, which was helpful for defining some parts. It was a dinner full of surprises and laughs.
The day of
this special meal there was a huge uprising in Cusco. Many people participating in the demonstration and others cheering for it. All this was against the mayor and against privatising Machu Picchu. I was shocked when I found out about this; they (politicians) want to sell Machu Picchu to some rich individual while this is Peruvian history & culture and belongs to the country Peru. I was great to see that so many people trying to make their point in one way of the other; singing, dressing up, banners, acting out etc. Amazing.
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judith
non-member comment
klinkt allemaal super leuk en herkenbaar! Echt leuk in Cusco he! Jammer dat het weer zo tegenzat...balen, maar desalniettemin toch een leuke plaats! Erg leuke foto´s ook! Die markt is echt geweldig he, ik moest erg lachen om je goede beschrijving! maak er wat van schatje, en ik heb je net nog even een mail gestuurd! we contacten, dikke kus xxx judith