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Published: February 14th 2008
Here we are, the much anticipated Machu Picchu entry.
Everything that comes to mind when you hear the phrase ¨Hiking South America¨ is true.
The Cusqueñan mountains are some of the most beautiful I´ve ever seen. They are populated by Peruvians who pour sweat and blood into the land, maintain indigenous traditions and languages, and who were very welcoming and friendly to two ¨gringo¨ travelers.
The entire journey took 4 days and 3 nights to reach Aguas Calientes (Hot Waters), a touristy hotspot at the base of Machu Picchu.
On the first day, we departed from Mollepata and trekked over 12 miles and a pass of over 3000 feet. At a starting altitude of almost 10,000 feet, the ascent was extremely difficult before acclimation. We decided to go without a guide or group (which is the usual mode of tourist trekking in this area) because I have had a decent amount of trekking experience (read: I´m too proud) and it was cheaper. Because we were without a guide, we had to frequently ask the locals for directions. The first day was absolutely gorgeous. The long and strenous day ended with a trail-side camp with Salkantay Mountain looming
overhead.
The second day we were to pass over Salkantay Mountain at almost 14,000 feet. This is the highest elevation I have ever reached. Luckily we encountered a man who was willing to carry Karen´s bag over for a small fee, though I think she would have made it anyway.
Before attempting the ascent, he taught us an Incan ritual performed before passing. We asked for permission and aid from the Apus (think deity) of Salkantay and buried three coca leaves pointing toward the sun. This is analogous to asking for permission to enter someone´s home. I thoroughly enjoyed the ritual and will perform it or something similar on my future treks whenever I pass difficult mountains.
The pass itself was extremely difficult. Like all good climbs it required signficant patience, and humility. (I got my ass kicked!)
The rest of Day Two I will not describe here. But what I will say is this: For the first time in my life I experienced genuine fear. It is a feeling I never want to experience again.
Day three ended with a camp outside a small shack/store along the trail that was run by a Peruvian
family. I won´t say poor because everybody is poor here. It was intensely gratifying to use my langauge to connect with the family and to understand a lifestyle which I´ve never seen or experienced first hand. One can not help but cultivate the deepest compassion for his or her fellow man when he lives by such extremely low means for no clear reason other than that that was the life he was born into.
On Day Four we passed through a town (La Playa) by truck where the children were playing soccer outside the local school when we passed. I was told that this school constantly lacks supplies like pencils and notebooks and many travelers who pass through donate supplies to the school. I plan to send a package when I get back to Chile, contact me if you want to help.
One thing I asked myself but could not answer was whether or not the people were happy. It seemed like they were. However, one thing was immediately clear. When communication barriers were transcended, it was quite obvious that the Peruvians, Chileans, Argentinians, Austrailians, Americans, all the -ans that I met along the way shared very profound
similarities. They laughed at the same jokes and drank the same beer.
We ended Day Four and our hike by joining up with some Chilean students (very hard to understand) also traveling to Aguas Calientes/Machu Picchu.
Today, Day Five, we visited Machu Picchu. There is actually not much to say. It lives up to its hype: It´s absolutely amazing and definitely deserves a spot on your ¨Things to Do Before You Die¨list. Though personally, I have no such list.
Tomorrow we will take a train at 5:30 am to travel through the Sacred Valley and back to Cusco.
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eric y.
non-member comment
good procrastination
your posts are really interesting to read, especially the photos and videos. They provide a good distraction from work at the office!