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Published: January 27th 2006
Climbing the walls
Leg has gone a bit funny I think! Too much walking!Had I learned of the definition of Peru´s world heritage site before completing the gruelling Inca Trail, perhaps it might have made me walk faster with curiosity! Macchu Picchu translated into the traditional Peruvian language of Quechua means "Old Penis". It's not exactly what I´ve been striving for, in fact completely opposite might be more appropriate!
I met the gang that I would be walking with for four days, the night before the 6am pickup. We were a small group, and providing all personalities get on that can be a good thing. But who can really tell at the beginning? Karsten was the Dutch banker living in Switzerland, Liesbeth was the Belgian living on a boat in Italy, and Janes was the German student travelling South America. I was thankful I had another girl to gossip with, but then again...all guys might not have been too bad either!!
When the van pulled up early in the morning, we all compared a few notes on what we had managed to fit in our bags and what we had been forced to leave behind. I think all of this travelling has taught me a few lessons about carrying too
Before Setting Foot on the Trail
We looked so fresh in the van! Karston, Janes, myself and Elizabet much, as I was quite proud of the fact that my pack was the smallest; a total of 8 kilos with my sleeping bag and roll! The drive to Ollantaytambo where we planned to grab a bite to eat and buy a few last minute supplies was a windy road that I had seen just a few days before, so I didn't feel too bad shutting my eyes. I wasn't able to completely fall asleep as the porters (and Janes) managed to, with their heads rolling around like that of a bouncy ball. Eventually we arrived at 'Kilometer 82', where the trek would be begin. Our passports were looked over and stamped; there was certainly no intention of walking out of the country, but another mark squeezed onto the few pages left in my world travel book can do no harm. And I may need proof that I really accomplished the trail anyways!!
There was a large group ahead of us, standing in front of the first photo spot announcing the Inca Trail. Cameras exchanged hands, yells of excitement, and a twinkle in everybody's eyes. Looking back now, it's amusing how fresh everyone looked in the beginning! Our
time came to pose and then we took our first few steps. We crossed the raging Urubamba River and began a paced amble along the dry trail. As we passed a couple of small huts and interesting plants I was immediately relieved to notice Liesbeth taking the same number of photos as myself. Whether it was an excuse for a breather or not, at least I wouldn't be the only one! Our guide Wilbur told us a few random facts along the way and we nodded our heads and allowed the porters to pass us. The trail began to climb and we pressed on with determination. Liesbeth and I were content to announce we'd manage the back of the line! When we met up with the lads at the top of the hill, I was surprised to be taking such a lengthy break...if this is what the entire trail will be like I'll be laughing. Well, laughing the whole way I was not!
Wilbur filled us in on the history of our first Inca Ruins along the way, Willarakay and Llactapata. The terraces were overlooked by a restored fortress and our breath was caught yet again. Lucky for
Machu Picchu
And the skies finally cleared for us! us, this was soon followed by the lunch masterpiece created by the porters who had run ahead. We sat in the tent admiring the table setting when Sergio brought us some soup for a first course. Four days of this? Nooooo problem! Once we filled our bellies, we geared up for the second half of the day. Liesbeth attempted to take off with one of the porters packs and came to her senses realizing it was nearly three times the weight of her own. So we carried on, and on and on and not even complaining too much when we had to cover up with our plastic rain ponchos over our packs, afterall, it is the rainy season. And at least we weren't the only ones that looked like colourful hunchbacks covered in cling film.
We arrived at the first campsite called Wayllabamba in the mid afternoon. It sat at 3000 meters, which signified our climb up so far hadn't been that significant afterall (we started at 2600 meters). But it was still a relief, as day one received a little check complete. The porters had already set up our tents so we peeled off our sweaty clothes
Ollyantambo
We stopped in town for breakfast and a few supplies. You can dimly see the terraces in the background and tended to the first blisters before heading back into the town 'shopping center' to buy some beer. When I say town, I regret not having taken more photos. There were campsites dispersed all across the hillside, so we never actually saw any of the other 250 climbers anywhere near us. But we had at least remembered one little house with a window selling beer, a.k.a. 'the shopping center'! The night began with introductions to our 6 porters (seems crazy to have nearly one each eh?) and a few games of cards after the luscious meal. The skies hadn't relented any, so we were restricted to our tents if we wanted to stay dry. The time came when all of our eyes were drooping more than normal and we finally admitted the day had come to an end. I lay in my sleeping bag and couldn't help thinking how lucky I was to be trekking with good people and and hadn't collapsed yet.
The shaking of the tent walls was a surprise wake up call, but as a cup of hot coco leaf tea was then passed through the zippered door, I couldn't complain too much! After breakfast,
The Official Beginning
I wonder how many people have this same photo we handed over our id's into the check point and began the ascent. The second day of trekking was said to be the most difficult as we aimed for the 4200 meter pass, so I bit my tongue and followed the gang. We all prepared to fight the altitude by chewing on some lllllovely coco leaf chewy candies supplied to us by Karsten. As I said at the time Karsten, thanks so so so much. Each time I swallowed that lovely concoction I did think of you! Before long, the headache and painful sinus's hit me, so I did as the porters did and stuffed 20-30 leaves between my gums and cheeks on each side, and just kept on walking...slowly. The pathway had changed from a smooth dirt track to a couple of steps, followed by endless steps. Anybody who has ever completed this trail will no doubt tell you that the worse part is having to heave yourself up yet another step! Regardless, we traipsed on. Overflowing streams of water cascaded by and moss jungles swung by our heads. We only stopped for sips of water and an adjustment of our rain soaked bodies. The plastic ponchos certainly kept
Bridge 1
The river had crashed over several banks earlier in the week, hopefully we wouldn´t have too many problems! our belongings dry, but held every ounce of sweat close to our clothes and bodies. Amazingly, the porters still ran by us on the stairs, and I stopped for a few glimpses of llamas and birds of prey.
When I finally reached the 1st pass, the relief was overwhelming. I didn't enjoy the moment for too long though, as the wind began freezing the drips from my nose. It was now expected to be an hour and a half of downhill to the camp. I began carefully placing each foot on the most secure looking area of the wet rocks scattered to make the trail, whilst my fingers clung to any area of warmth within my waterlogged sleeve. Although technically it was, it certainly wasn't the high point of the trek sofar and my impatience got the better of me. I began running slowly, touching down on each rock for just a moment, and discovered I was warm in no time. I had also built up my own internal excitement as my race to the end began. Downhill became my Inca glory. I chuckled to myself as I passed walkers crawling across the rocks, and then the weather
Inca Trail
We were quick to start winding our way up the mountain sides seemed to clear. Could things be any better for me at this moment? I was on the trail with nobody around, enjoying the freedom of life and the joy of emptying my bladder, when I was hit with a familiar porter face walking up the trail. Zip zip ever so quick, and I don't think he had much of a clue of my previous position! I was handed a sandwich and a cup of hot sugary water and began my flight downhill again. Victor the porter stayed on my tail a bit worried that the sugar had affected my brain cells poorly, and I continued my personal race to arrive at camp like the RoadRunner.
As the lads had actually arrived at Paqaymayu (camp) the same time as the porters, they filled me in on the local gossip; the showers that had sounded so appealing were icy cold ... as if that could scare off a Canadian! I stripped, washed and shivered before immediately climbing into my sleeping bag for some cozy shut eye. After my little rest, it was hard to set aside some dry clothes for the evening let alone the next day. Practically everything but
Moment of doubt...
Am I really ´gonna make it up and over this trek? my PJ's dripped with the Peruvian skies and sweat, so I opted for the only solution I could think of at the time. The kitchen tent would surely have some heat to dry my clothes? So I walked over to the porters hideout and tried to convey to them the importance of my dry clothes. And the importance of me getting everything back! The glint in their eyes as I hung my bra over the stove, even set me off in a fit of giggles! After dinner, the evening routine of cards re-established itself, with an added bonus of massages for the winners. Well, I may not have won all the games that night, but my muscles sure appreciated the extra manoevers!
We had urged our leader Wilbur to let us sleep in for an extra hour allowing all of the other trekkers to get ahead of us on the trail. We then huffed and puffed up and down and through more ruins. Wilbur tried to keep us inspired with historic tales, but it was hard not to scuff the ground and daydream of other things. We had lunch, we posed for photos, we climbed a few walls.
The Newest Porter
Elizabet had a go carrying the 25 kilos of gear that the porters carry The rain was hardly a hindrance and we all strolled along sparking conversations easily. I think I enjoyed day three on the trail more than any other day. We had climbed the worst and had a relaxed confidence that contributed to a great atmosphere. Maybe it was this feeling that got the better of me when I slipped off the edge of the trail. Fear flashed through me, but when I landed in a bed of bamboo just a few feet below the giggles had all ready begun. There ended up being a few other slips and tumbles that day, but nothing could lower the spirits at this point.
Our final camp along the trail was a huge contrast to the previous nights. Tents had been pitched on every space available, the bar was heaving with smelly bodies, and the line up for the hot shower might have ended the following day. I had had two beers before realizing how smashed I already felt, luckily the festivities were continuing with our final feast so I needn't be too lucid. The porters sang us a song, and we responded with an embarassing rendition of...can't even remember! Regardless, we all
Ruin 1
Tucked in the valley, these terraces were overlooked by remains of a fortress had smiles knowing there was only one day left. And because of the pleasures of receiving another massage of course!
The tent walls began shaking at 4 am, no funny business I'm afraid, just a wake up call to hit the trails. We stuffed our belongings into our bags without any care or order, and joined the long line of hikers making their way through the final check point. It wasn't as social as the previous day, partly because we were being herded like cattle along the muddy ruins of the trail, partly because it was still 5am having had a few too many beers the night previous. We passed some more ruins and finally approached our first viewpoint of Macchu Picchu. I have to admit, the first glimpse isn't going to be a sight I hold with me forever. The clouds may not have been dumping rain on us anymore, but they still hovered over Peru's most famous view. As there were no winds we decided to carry on and hope for the best when we arrived.
We climbed above the terraces and imagined what it looked like below. Every now and then there was
My accomplished walking pose
Having conquered the first major hill with a few (too many) huffs and puffs, I clung to my walking stick for the camera a clearing for a few seconds, and all cameras were sent into overdrive. Janes and I continued to explore the area, searching for an old Inca bridge, and finding a ledge carved into the cliff. Not exactly something we were able to cross, so we rejoined the group at the main entrance. What a pleasure it was to dump the bags, enjoy a clean toilet, and savour a milky coffee.
Wilbur then began his tour of the ruins, by which time the clouds had all burned off. It really couldn't have been a more perfect day to explore 'the old penis'. The phallic symbols all around us were evident, and the legends came to life. There are many theories put forward by different historians about the people that lived here, of the spiritual significance, and how the area could have vanished from awareness for so long. All along the trail we learned of the communication links and saw the beauty of everything for ourselves. So how did it make me feel to finally be at the end? Awestruck and inspired of course, and bloody tired. After our on site history lesson, it was perfect to kick back in
Ready for the rains
We all looked a little foolish in our plastic bag protection, but at least Elizabet remains Pretty in Pink! the sun and absorb it in our own way. We were joined by a sexy group of Aussies that I had first met in Brazil, a shame I had no further energies to bat my eyelashes! But the sun was such a pleasure that we had been missing over the past few days, so shoes came off and eyes closed for awhile. Out of nowhere we were then told off for having removed our shoes. No trouble to lean against the walls...but not the shoes! (4 days on the trail remember? I don't think we were looking or smelling too hot!) A quick change of location and we were back to quietly reflecting on life. And then what the hell was that noise? We were drawn into the second tourist attraction of Macchu Picchu, the llamas.
As I had first witnessed in Sacsaywaman, these creatures are horny little buggers! They'll think nothing of knocking a tourist off of a terrace in order to get to the hottie llama sending them the right signals. And that lady llama has certainly got something right as the boys were lining up! And then there were the tourists...me sadly included. We listened
The Shopping Mall
The most important item sold was beer of course. I didn´t offer them my credit card. to the aggressive grunts and giggled at the foreign manoevers. Who knows what I'm ever going to do with my video of lusting llamas, 'cuz I'm certainly not interested in that sort of addition to my sex life!! Maybe I can sell it on the internet...
Once we had spent the day taking in all of the glories of Macchu Picchu, we boarded a bus down into the town of Aguas Calientes. The train tracks rolled past the strip of restaurants filled with dirty trekkers and pristine day trippers. We sat, ordered a few beers and celebrated the end of 4 days of sweaty hard work and historical natural beauty. Of course the beer went straight to my head and it became a drunken stumble to the train. But I still felt blessed, even more so when I sat in the train carriage. There must have been 20 very young handsome priests singing Peruvian songs for the entire journey. I may not have been able to capture their hearts, but it's always entertaining to flirt with a uniform, whatever the uniform!
Upon returning to Cusco, I was again faced with my hostel being in the loudest
Mmmmmmmm, coco candies
Thanks again Karstan, those candies were so memorable! And I still got the headaches-didn´t swallow enough I guess! part of town. Needing the amenities of a good bed, it was time for yet another accommodation change. And luckily I found the best place yet, having followed up on some tips from my new hiking mates. Janes and myself, Liesbeth and Karsten enjoyed our last couple of drinks in town, before we all continued our individual journeys. Karsten made it over to Brazil, Liesbeth over to Bolivia whilst Janes and myself enjoyed a few more days relaxing around town. Shopping, coffees, sleeping in late and still meeting people that I'd love to keep in contact with. Like Tito and Carlos? I never expected to meet two dashing Chileans that called woolly hats as the Canadians do! (for all of you non Canadians out there, a woolly hat is called a tuque!)
So my time in Peru, country number 21 on this trip (although 24 if you can count entering the same country twice!) has come to an end. I really only stayed in one town, but experienced more than I have in many other countries. I feel invigorated from the exercise of sorts, and inspired by the broad span of good people I've met. I may not
Up and Up
Uggghhhhh, steps were a little slower at this point! be leaving with a man from Macchu Picchu, but I've had a good look at what's still available to 31 year old singleton, and it's still pretty tasty! Locals and travellers, hope to hear from all of you soon.
Off to Mexico...approaching the final continent of this trip-how scary!!
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Eddie
non-member comment
Wish I´d met you in Peru!
As you say to all of us, ¨cheeky monkey¨ seems appropriate to you now! An entertaining view of the trail from a very entertaining woman, see you again soon