I beat the Incas

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First of all Feliz Navidad and Feliz Anyo Neveuo too all!!! I´ll get around to my festive season in a bit but where did I leave off from....

Sucre in the East of Bolivar was the next port of call, its a cute little city, with some cute men, something I never thought I would say of the men here but I think its so close to Argentina and they must have been mixing with them, and we all know my feelings on the Argie men. Anyhow, did go to do some sightseeing after we had found the best gringo bar with awesome food, we head to Tarrabuco market about 2 1/2 hours from the city on a very local (if smelly) bus where we were so packed in I was as good as on top of the driver. Being slightly hungover we didn't do much shopping but it was worth it just to see the local outfits and hats. Each region of Bolivar has different hats so each town brings new excitement as you see the new style. Tarrabuco has probably the best hats Ive seen, sparkly sequins and a pompom on a sick on top, wicked, and the men are all in the fancied ponchos you will ever see. The selling was the most aggressive since Asia, so didn't stop too long. Back on the bus, now down to Uyuni in the South, what a ride, 11 hours of bumping around on a bad bus with the woman next to me STINKING of piss. Nice.


When we finally did arrive we booked on the first Salt Flat tour we saw being to lazy to ask around the differences, interesting choice as it turned out our driver was also the cook, mechanic and guide, all good as he spoke no English. Had a good bunch of people which was lucky as most of the time was spent driving for hours between the sights. First stop was the salt flats themselves and que many silly photos on the endless whiteness. We went to Isla Piscada (island of fish), randomly named considering its covered in huge cacti.
We stayed in a tiny little village with more llamas than people in it and were up good and early to see a pletther of lakes, including a green lake and red lake and flamingo filled lakes. We stayed next to the red lake, the prettiest in the coldest little house, it wasn't helped that we had to be up at 4, the coldest part of the night! So with everything I owned on we head up to 5000m above sea level, firstly to some geysers, so South American that you could have jumped inside the bubbling sulfa without a safety barrier in site. Next and still only 6.30 in the morning we all jumped in the natural hot springs. It may have been literally freezing outside but it was sooo good warmed me up a treat. It was a long journey back to Uyani, we were practically in Chile, so we broke it up'and stayed it a real nothing town before heading back, picking up a few hitchhikers along the way, baby goat and all, as you do, only in Bolivar! By this point as much as I loved Bolivar all the silly quirks that make it the wicked place it is, if I had stayed any longer they would have been the quirks you grow to hate, so back to La Paz for the night and shoot on back to Peru. Not before having my Reading shirt 'go missing' in the wash! B@$&♠ds!!!!


So on to Puno with a brief stop in Copacabana in the sunshine, why wasn't it that nice when we stayed there. Unfortunatly the weather didn't hold up in Peru and boy did it rain. I had some bad news from home and topped with the weather felt pretty miserable, was on my own after leaving Rose to head for Argentina, so booked on to the most touristy tour you can do in Peru, a tour of the island in lake Titicaca. Ended up being so much fun, with some wicked people just what I needed. It was out to the Uros islands first, they are a bunch of islands made of reeds that just float around, crazy, very touristy but where else are you going to see people living on reed islands in reed houses? Next was on to meet our new families on Isla Amantani where we would be staying with a local family. Our new mum was quite the host, welcoming us to here house that was so small even I bumped my head going through the door, with a nice cold beer. Take note mum, add a bacon sarnie or roast dinner and good homecoming ;-) That afternoon we took on the locals at a game of footie, not really a surprise that we lost with an Americano in goal and us all being highly acclimatised to running around at 4000m. That night we where taken to a fiesta, unfortunaly we had to be dressed in local toggs. The boys got off lightly with a poncho, yet the girls where put in the lovely big two tired skits that give you the biggest hips ever, cos i need the help it was a good look!! Next day was lovely and Sunny, a rare thing in Peru at the mo, so our cruise over to Isla Taquile and back to the port were so good. As usual the weather didn't hold as we watched the storm we were heading for get bigger and bigger. Back in town had a wicked Chinese for a pound, so good, but was sadly rime to say goodbye to the only two cuties I had met in months, travelling sucks sometimes!


Cusco was my next port of call and to become my home over Christmas and New Year, to be honest it was all a bit of a blur as we had to keep up with the festive season and one or two beers where had so nights out were alternated with me mooching in my second bed, the sofa in front of the TV, it wouldn't be Christmas if you didn't watch bad movies. On my first night in town Cusco beat Lima in the footie league, que celebrations, but little did we know we would be getting involved in the biggest games. The two teams went into the playoff and played the first round in Cuzco, so armed with our silly head scarfs and red (cusco colours) ponchos we head for the game. What an atmoshspere, it was electric and also a crazy spectacle of what would never be allowed at a game in England. Including one of the crowd throwing a till roll, not toilet, at one of the players, the policeman he was stood next to not only didn't throw him out but laughed along. As half time approaced so did the rain, so out with what should be known as Peruvian national dress, the poncho. Everyone wears them, its the rainy season BUY A RAIN COAT!!! Even the police where them, how you supposed to take a man of the law serious in a poncho? Although it did make the terraces look very pretty with all the different colours. One activity I did actually pursue in was more white water rafting, well rude not to in rainy season, means nice strong rapids. Unfortunately at one point slightly too strong as our raft hit a wave and stopped, me and one of the girls and instructor I might add, all kept going. Luckily I was only in the water for a second or two (felt like more) but the other chica was bouncing around in the water for a bit.


Christmas Eve is the big night in Peru so duly we celebrated, and fireworks are the way to celebrate. So come midnight the whole town went off with a bang, litterly. Bare in mind these are not your normal firework's, more like dynamite with just a huge bang and no pretty colours to show for it. Just what you want to be woken by at 9am Christmas day, Ben the guy who ran the hostel did just that to get us up for a Champagne breakfast and pressies, would have been great bar the pounding hangover. The big day itself was spent having a huge lunch at the best restaurant in town, umm it was good (only alternated my meals between there and the Irish bar- Shepard's pie has never been so exciting) and watching TV. Till diner time, bring on the turkey... sadly not as good as home (don't mention green mash!!) but the free bar was good and lead to us all doing the traditional Christmas thing and falling asleep in front of the TV. With a few more nights out crammed in, (good old Mama Africa´s) it was time for the big one New Years Eve, there was a huge party at the hostel with three dance floors and free beer, what more could you ask for. At midnight we all head into the Plaza De Armes (main square) and somehow managed to keep hold of all our limbs. The crazy fireworks from Xmas where nothing compared to new year, they were going off everywhere with tiny kiddies setting them off too. I got some looks with my measly sparklers but it was enough for me, dynamite and beer don't mix i figure. All the locals do three laps around the Plaza for good luck, but you have to be pretty lucky to dodge the fireworks.


New Year started in the most ridiculous fashion 6.30am New Years Day after no sleep I was picked up for the Inca Trail. Two hours on the bus I was not feeling to healthy, but carrying all my own stuff, no porter here, I completed day one, somehow! My joy at the rain and general tiredness was added to by having to do the whole 4 days with a group of 5 French. Now my views had changed on the French on this trip but after 4 days of refusing to speak English (me and the guide had no clue what they where saying) and general slagging of the English my views are back on the disliking side. I would go in to the boring details of what ruins we saw along the way but needless to say we ended up at Machu Pichu. The porters where probably the most amazing thing I saw on the trail, they were carrying all the camping gear and food to almost twice of them, not even in any sort of backpack just tarpaulin and rope, wearing just a pair of sandals made from old tyres. Crazy. So after four days of rain we reached the Sun Gate, where you should have a great aerial view, we had clouds. Thankfully it cleared as we got closer and where able to look around in the sunshine ad get the money shot of the town. After missing the train because I was too busy buying even more earrings (they were worth it!!) I was told I would have to pay $50 to get home, I didn't have 50 soles (8 pound) but they ended up upgrading me to first class, I really fit in wearing clothes from four days of rain and mud but who cares. Arriving ´home´ I was greeted with a celebrate cocktail for surviving the Inca Trail. I personally think I beat the Incas, didnt here about them doing it on New Years Day off no sleep and putting up with 5 French.

Well the cocktail was one of many that night as it was a few of us on our last night in Cusco, messy isn't the word, it cant be good when you end up in a Peruvian Casino or being served beer as they set up for breakfast in the hostel. Although I think I nearly died that day I lead to a very sound nights sleep on the night bus out. Goodbye Cucso, I had fun but had to get out before you killed me.


I was on my way back to Hucachina, sandbording place from last blog, too catch up with some friend and some sun, but stopped off in Nazca to see the famous lines. They are basically a load of shapes and outline of animals in the ground that no one can explain how or why they are there. I did them the cheapskate way, instead of flying over them I went to a 1 sole (16p) lookout tower, and I have to say even that was steep for a bunch of squiggles. So packed in to another smelly bus, off to the sun. Sadly only one full day of sun, but a good chill out and catch up.


So it was time to head back to Lima, flying out of here to Mexico tomorrow. Its the same as Bolivar, Ive had a wicked time here but again silly quirks really get to you, as do being given fake notes cos your a gringo who doesn't know better! So I'm leaving behind the rain and sadly the Inca Kola, to jet off to the sunshine of Central America. My four months in South America has been the most amazing time and also very frustrating at times, but I have loved it.

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Photos

Taraboco market, dont stop moving for a second or you get this crowd
But do look at the funky hats

Pass the salt
Salar de Uyuni

The Uros Islands
All made of reeds and floating around

Looking Sexy
Traditional Peruvian toggs, Steve, me and our lame Americano goalie Matt all looking sexy.

Feliz Navidad!!
Merry Christmas! Karen, Spiedie (Dave), Toni and I on Christmas Eve

Feliz Anyo Neuvo
Happy new year! Me in the square at midnight scared i might get a limb blown off!

Machu Pichu
The end of four days walk was greeted by the famous city, luckly the rain cleared for a bit to let us yet the famous shot.

Reading made it to the game still
Altough the shirt couldnt RIP, the hoody did

The Point chicas
Any, Sarah, Benji, me, some random chick and Phobe on our last night in Cusco

Umm beer...
Perprations for New Year