AGUAS CALIENTES TO CUSCO, PERU - DAYS 7 AND 8

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I'm now in Cusco, a city of 400,000 people at an elevation of 11,500 feet, but I started yesterday from the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Hotel by walking to the train station for the ride on the Vista Dome train to Ollanta. Before checking out, however, I took a guided nature walk on the hotel property to observe the hotel's ¨cloud forest¨ environment. The guide explained that, since we were between the Amazon rain forest and the heights of the Andes, we were in a unique ecological habitat to several birds and flowers. Many species of orchids and birdes, including several kinds of hummingbirds were observed. The train ride was about 1 1/2 hours of spectacular scenery following a fast flowing river between towering mountainsides. Really, really impressive. Upon arrival in Ollanta we walked to our bus for the drive to Cusco, the navel of the Inca empire. The bus drive was another scenic wonderland going through more amazing scenery. A stop for rest rooms and photo opportunities found some native vendors selling souveniers. We arrived at our hotel, the Monasterio Hotel, a landmark 16th century monastery owned by the now operated by the Vatican but operated byOrient-Express. Dinner at the hotel featured entertainment by a talented soprano and an equally talented tenor singing arias accompanied by excellent keyboard and violinists. Great meal, great entertainment.

This morning we boarded our buses and headed to the local market, a visit to the Convent of Santo Domingo,and a stop at the Cathedral of Cusco. Cusco is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the Americas. Driven by greed and a lust for gold, Francisco Pizarro led his Spanish conquistadors into Cusco in 1532 and found a stunning city of lavish palaces and imposing temples. Today this city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The bustling local market is home to hundreds of vendors selling their wares. Many locals were eating their breakfasts at counters and a butcher was doing his craft on pork carcasses. Some clothing and jewelry stands were there, but most of the vendors were selling food or flowers. We then drove to Sacsayhuaman, ¨House of the Sun¨, on a hill above Cusco. Finished in 1508, it took over 70 years to build and required the work of over 20,000 men. The construction of this site is a remarkable achievement for a society that didn't have the wheel or iron tools.

We returned to downtown Cusco for a visit to the Convent of Santo Domingo, also known as Koricancha. The 16th century church was built upon the base of the most important and largest Incan temple. Our last stop was at the Cathedral of Cusco. Built in 1560, the facade has a very ornamental Renaissance style and contains the best work of colonial goldsmiths and wood carvers as well as a valuable collection of canvases. A truly remarkable Cathedral! We returned to the hotel with the rest of the day free to explore on our own.

I had spotted ¨Paddy's Pub¨on our walk through downtown and returned there for a late lunch. There were two soccer games on TV and next to me on one side was a Frenchman there to route on his national team and on my other side, a Ukranian. I also had conversations with an Australian and an Englishman. The cheeseburger was good too.

Tomorrow, on to Puno by train. I'm using the hotel's computer, so I don't know if I'll be able to upload photos, but I'll try. ILYS

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