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Published: August 30th 2008
I think I'll get straight to it this time. No point messing about is there?
Friday 22nd August Did the sights in Puno. Saw the Cathedral. There was some sort of military parade going on. Also saw Casa del Corregidor. Took a two person moto-taxi to the market. We were going to go up the hill for city/lake views but were advised against it by the Tourist Information Office. There have been lots of violent muggings up there apparently. Peru seems to be a bit more like that than anywhere else we've been. It spoils it really!
Saturday 23rd August Travelled to Cusco. 15NS (2.59 quid) each. A 7 hour journey (that turned into 8 hours with all the cheeky cash-in-hand pick-ups the driver did). Quite a few food stops too. The locals sell food and drink in plastic bags. Don't think they have plastic plates or cups! It's quite odd to see people eating roast lamb and boiled potatoes from a plastic bag, drinking from a straw sticking out of the top of a plastic bag! Found a Hostel for 30NS for the room with private bathroom. Cusco seems nice. For the geeks Cusco was the foremost city
in the Incan Empire, is the archeological capitalof the Americas, and the continent's oldest, permanently inhabited city. Legend has it that Manco Capac (the first Inca) was charged by the ancestral sun god to find the navel of the earth (qosq'o), therefore Cusco is Earth's belly-button! It has a huge open plaza (plaza Armas) and lots of old buildings. We'll have a look round another day. We're off for Pisco Sours at Happy Hour!
Sunday 24th August Went to iPeru (Tourist Info) and some Tour Operators. Machu Picchu works out to be 457NS each if we DIY (that's for train, bus and entrance) plus we would have to overnight in Aguas Calientes which is the town next to Machu Picchu. We've managed to negotiate with a Tour Operator a price of 380NS each which
includes the overnight and all the transport. Lets just see how it turns out!
Monday 25th August Travelling to Aguas Calientes by van. 0730 pick up so an early start. We're at the office by 0715. By 0800 we're a bit annoyed! Finally a taxi picks us up and takes us to another office.We get in the van at about 0815 to go for
Juice anyone?
I'll put it in a bag for youpetrol.The actual pick-up time is 0830! In fairness it's quite a nice 8 seater with leather seats! We pick up our fellow tourists (Tom, Andre, Heather, Michael and a pair of Peruvian's whose names escape me at the moment). Drove to Santa Teresa for lunch - which it turns out, is included as well.
We then had 14 of us packed into a 10 seater for a 30 minute drive to the train station. Catch train and go to Hostel. We have a double room with private bathroom! Asked about bus tickets for tomorrow to get us to Machu Picchu and we're told, "They're not included." But they are, we claim and show him our ticket where it clearly states the bus to and from Machu Picchu is included. Generally argue for about two hours the end result of which is basically "tough titties." We have to see our Tour Operator when we get back to Cusco. Had a few drinks with our fellow travellers.
Tuesday 26th August Up at 0315 for brekkie at 0400 then join the queue for the buses at 0430. As the first bus doesn't pick up till 0530 we decided to do the 1½
Dawn Trek
Aguas Calientes - Machu Picchu hour trek to Machu Picchu. We started in pitch black and headed up the (mainly steps) footpath to the entrance. It was spectacular to say the least! As it gradually got lighter and the sun slowly rose we became more aware of our surroundings. We're in a steep valley and climbing to the top of one side. It's very steep. There is a mountain with snow on the top behind us. It took us 1hr 10 mins. and we got to the entrance gate
before the first buses which was great! We were in the first group of 30 people into the site. Most of those ran straight for another queue to climb Wayna Picchu which is the big hill in the background of most Machu Picchu photo's. They only allow 200 people per day to climb it. We were meeting our guide at 0630 so we went straight to "The Hut of the Caretaker of the Funerary Rock" which is where to get the typical "post-card" photos. Tom, Aimee and I were the first people up there and it felt like we had the whole place to ourselves for about 20 minutes. It was very peaceful. We stayed there
Machu Picchu
Before the sun came over the hills to watch the sun rise over the mountains and shine down on Machu Picchu. Our guide was ½hr late, then took us on a 2hr tour of the whole site. He was a wierdo! He talked with his eyes shut and wouldn't let you wander away to take photo's. He wanted your undivided attention at all times!! After the tour we had a walk around ourselves and headed off for the "Inca Drawbridge." 30 minutes later we get near to the bridge to find the path is closed! Now why isn't there a sign at the
beginning of the footpath??? Got bus back to Aguas Calientes and met everybodyy at the Hostel at midday. Train back to Santa Teresa, waited for 2 hours for our transport back to Cusco. It's a 12 seater which they try to stuff 13 of us in. I don't think so! We all kicked-off so one of the Tour Operator staff had to wait behind! There's no roof-rack or boot so we have 12 people and all our bags inside this van. It's cramped to say the least! 8 hours later we arrive in Cusco. Take-away pizza, rum and coke, then bed!
Wednesday 27th August
Spent all morning in a clothes shop with Aimee. Went to see about a refund for the bus to and from Machu Picchu (even though we walked one way). We were told to come back at 1500. Then at 1500 we were told to come back at 2000. Not a happy bunny! Went back at 2000 and still no man! Kicked-off royally! Told to come back tomorrow. Oh, don't you worry love. We will!!
Ate "Cuy al Horno" which is baked guinea pig. I expected it to be like chicken or rabbit but it was thicker skinned and darker - almost like duck!
Thursday 28th August Went back to office for refund.
Still no man. We're told come back at 1030. I dont think so! I'm waiting right here!! Suprise - he turns up two minutes later! Do you think he was hiding in the back? Anyway turns out the mistake was we were NOT supposed to get meals we WERE supposed to get the transport. The booking actually said we WERE to get the meals but NOT the transport. So it was a simple mistake and we ate the meals so why don't we just call it
quits? I don't thinkl so! We'll accept the meals as compensation for the late pick-up, late/crap guide, over-cramped transport etc. and we'll take a FULL refund for two people, two directions, Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu! OK it's a deal. Come back at 1830 on Saturday to collect your cash! No. We want it now! Sorry, we've no cash yet. When we have it you can have it. Popped back several times but allegedly they've not sold anything!
Went to see Mercado Central - very odd! We saw cow's noses, sheep's feet, live frogs (which were butchered in front of us for their legs) and real "testicles" with hair and everything still on them! It got quite cold and looked like rain so we headed back to the Hostel, got changed and went for Happy Hour (Machu Picchu's - mint, orange and grenadine). They tasted foul but looked the part!
Friday 29th August Did the sights of Cusco. Saw the Iglesia de Santo Domingo, the oldest Inca Wall, Iglesia de Compañia de Jesus, Cathedral, the Hatunrumiyoc (a 12 cornered stone) and more churches and Plazas! Still no sign of a refund from the Tour Operator. Went out for a
few beers, starting with Happy Hour! Bumped into Heather and Michael (who did Machu Picchu with us) so we chatted to them all night!
Saturday 30th August Still no money in the Tour Operators. They'd better have it at 1830 or there'll be trouble!!! Went to bus station for tickets to Arequipa. They started off at 50NS but we got them down to 40NS! It leaves at 2000. And that's about it! I'm in an internet cafe filling time and typing this! The bus is an overnighter so we should arrive in Arequipa at 0600 tomorrow. We'll see!
Not much else to report really. We're still fine, eating well and living the high life! Hope you're all well. Drop us an e-mail and let us know!!
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Tomas
non-member comment
So...
did you get the refund in the end? Arequipa is beautiful, no?