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Published: September 11th 2008
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Cathedral, Arequipa
Constructed of the white "Sillar" Quick message with regards facebook: Those of you that are keeping in touch via the facebook link to this page may have noticed it hasn't been updated on my Profile Page. Apparently there is a minor problem with the new version of facebook. If you like you can "subscribe" on the mytb/stephenhenaghan
page and you will automatically be sent an e-mail each time I update. I left you in suspense last time, wondering if we got a part-refund for the Machu Picchu trip. I'll cut to the chase and get straight to the update:
Saturday 30th August continued
So, we went back to the Tour Operators at 1830 as agreed and suprise suprise - they still have no money for us. We got WELL shirty and marched him down to the phones to ring his boss..........who had his phone switched off! Ended up disconnecting the guys computer keyboard and threatening to walk out of the shop with it. Then pinned him into a corner with his desk. He wanted to call the police but we wouldn't let him out. He ended up giving us 40NS back (which was all he had in his wallet). Not a bad result considering
we only spent 40NS extra on the bus at Machu Picchu, plus we got our meals for free.
Went to catch the bus for Arequipa. The bus cost us 40NS each. There are cheaper buses but Lonely Planet states,
"Peru's notoriously dangerous buses..........It's worth paying more for long distance bus trips, if only for safety'sake.......Try not to take overnight buses which are more vulnerable to fatal accidents, hijackings and luggage theft....." Rumour has it that 18 buses in the past month have fallen off the edge of the road on this route, but that would surely challenge the 100 annual deaths which give Bolivia's "Worlds Most Dangerous Road" it's title. Methinks it's Backpackers Urban Myths at work!!
This particular bus was extremely impressive! Everybody is filmed as they board the bus, fingerprintas are taken and documets checked. A metal detector is passed over everybody's hand-luggage and person (though it failed to find the knife we keep in our bag - for cutting bread/fruit, not people). We were served a hot meal and watched a movie (Hot Chick with Rob Schneider and Adam Sandler). It was in Spanish but we asked for English subtitiles which, thanks to the wonders of DVD
Is that Tuna?
Smells a bit fishy to me! are available at the push of a button. The coach didn't stop once and so no thieves or vagabonds could climb aboard. Blankets were passed around and we slept till morning.
Sunday 31st August Arrived Arequipa 0500 - one hour early. Had a coffee at the station then went hostel hunting. Got one for 30NS, a four-bed room (and huge) with shared bathroom. Arequipa is Peru's second largest city. It is in a valley with three snow covered volcanoes behind it (Chachani 6075m, Pichu Pichu 5571m, and Misti 5822m). The city's grand, colonial buildings are made from "Sillar" which is a white volcanic stone that reflects the sun. Did the sights - Cathedral, Monasteria de Santa Catalia and many other churches. The Plaza Armas which is surrounded by Sillar arches, Selve Park and boating lake and took a stroll by Rio Chilli.
Monday 01st September Went to bus station for tickets to Pisco. They were 80NS each for an 11 hour journey. It's annoying because it's the same price to Lima (which is 4 hours further). We knocked them down to 75NS each, though it wasn't easy! We said that because we would be getting off before breakfast
Peruvian Boobies
on Islas Ballestas was served we should get a discount! Looked around the market and several clothes shops. Had lunch at a Peruvian place that was interested in educating tourists about Peruvian cuisine. They gave us cookbooks in English so we could see what we were eating . It was lovely. Caught bus at 2000. Another great journey. Served a hot meal, watched Gladiator and slept till morning.
Tuesday 02nd September Arrived Pisco 0700. Bus dropped us off at the Pan American Highway and we had to catch a taxi to the town proper. The taxi was greeted by a "Tourist Guide" who basically followed us around and when we got to a Hostel, told the owners that he had recommended it and asked for commission. Therefore the prices quoted to us included his commission (they didn't know I could understand what they were saying). We quickly got rid of him! Turns out that Pisco was knocked down in August 2007 by an earthquake (Richter scale 8, 600 deaths). Maybe we should research a bit more before we visit somewhere! It was basically a big building site, so we disappeared and caught a
colectivo (a mini-bus) to Paracas which is the sea-side
Sealions
I'll take mine "on the rocks" town next door. Hostel in Paracas cost us 50NS for double with sea-view balcony and private bathroom. Our first ever views of the Pacific Ocean, the largest of the Earth's oceanic divisions. Shame it's cloudy - looks like the Channel!
Fresh fish for tea. Corvina (sea bass) which was so big I couldn't even finish it!
Wednesday 03rd September Went back for a closer look at Pisco. EVERYTHING was destroyed in the earthquake! Bought tickets to Tacna. 85NS each for business class. Expensive but after the last two journeys we're confident it will be worth it.
Thursday 04th September Up early for trip to Islas Ballestas - the poor man's Galapagos! Promises of dolphins, sea-lions, penguins and puffins. Oops - cancel that. Aimee is not well so we postponed till tomorrow. Did nothing while she recovered.
Friday 05th September Islas Ballestas today. Saw the Candelabra - a big thing etched in the rocks at the headland of Paracas. Went on a speed-boat. Saw sea-lions, one dolphin, lots of penguins and other random birds (Peruvian Boobies included). It stunk of sh!t. Guano produced here is very good apparently! They collect it every four years. Went to catch the
They come here to breed
and they're pregnant for 11 months per year!! bus for Tacna. OH MY GOD!! It's crap! Just a normal (dirty) coach! No meals, no blankets, no security. Loads of random pick-ups and smelly locals. Didn't sleep to well as we were watching our bags and wallets!
Saturday 06th September Arived Tacna 1130. Found a hostel. 40NS for double with private bathroom and cable TV. Chilled out.
Tacna is Perus most patriotic city. It used to belong to Chile till 1929 when the locals voted to become Peruvians.
Sunday 07th September Did the sights. The Cathedral (designed by Mr. Eiffel - the guy that designed Paris' tower), Plaza de Armas which has a big arch in memory of the 1929 Chile/Peru refrerendum, and Market.
Monday 08th September Chilled again - though I guess I should explain. Aimee is still not well so we're taking advantage of the cheap hostel (Chile is allegedly expensive) and Cable TV and allowing her to get better.
Tuesday 09th September Took a short walk but mainly chilled out again.
Wednesday 10th September Quite an easy day. Made sure we were back at the Hostel to watch Croatia vs England on ESPN. We were a bit under the hammer in
the first half. Things looked up once Croatia went down to 10 men though. 4 - 1 away from home, a fine result.
And so today is September 11th. Loads of TV coverage about the obvious! Hoping to catch a train today to Arica, Chile. The station doesn't open till 1430 though so we don't know if we can get tickets yet. Planning on taking it quite easy through Chile then passing over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina before returning to Santiago, Chile for our flight to New Zealand.
Well, take it easy everyone. Hope all is OK wherever you are.
Speak soon. I have Skype if anyone is interested!
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