Down, up the other side, down, up again, sleep, straight up....

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Another day, Yet another story.

At about 630pm two nights ago I was preparing to set out to travel to Cusco. This being the last leg of my South American journey, I was to stop here, then travel onwards to Lima, where Im flying out of on Sunday. At this time I thought that I would search online to find out what time the buses were departing from Cusco to Lima..... As we all know the roads and the Inca trail leading up to Macchu Picchu have been closed due to heavy rainfall, but did anyone know that the road in between Cusco and Lima was also washed out? Well, it is. In a huge hurry I ran to the travel agency of which I bought my ticket to beg them to switch it to the next day and instead of to Cusco, to Lima. Of course, as many South American details, this was not possible to do over the computer or over the phone, but must be done in person. Another detail, the travel agent said that It was far too dangerous for me to go on my own, so she happily escorted me there and changed everything. I still had to pay for half of the new ticket to Lima, but happily I got to stay in my nice warm hostel in Aeroquipa for one more night, and then left last night headed to Lima. Where I am today! Since this minor change of plans occured, I am unfortunatly unable to see the wonders of Cusco, but I am able to sit happily in the Miraflores Neighborhood of Lima. Im flying to Belize on Sunday to meet Tess. Of course from update to update my plans change but I think this is pretty normal for the traveller without a travel plan.

After visiting the wonderful oasis town of Huacachina, the beautiful penguin filled islands off of Pacaras, and then passing through Ica, I landed in Aeroquipa. A beautiful city, second largest to Lima. The Plaza De Armas, sitting in the middle of the city is known as the most beautiful plazas in South America. Towering over this beautiful old plaza is El Misti. Well, they say she is there any ways. El Misti is a Volcano that is permanently hidden in mist, sitting just outside of the city limits. The post cards of the scene on a clear blue day are beautiful, but im unsure whether or not anyone has truley seen the real deal! I was lucky enough to travel to Aeroquipa with a lovely group of Brazillians and Germans who allowed for an interesting and wonderful experience through the countryside of Peru. On day 2 of Aeroquipa we set out at 2am en route to the deepest canyon in the world, Colca. What was advertised as a two day easy trek was something I hope is not advertised to the old, the overweight, or the even slightly injured. This easy hike took every bit of physical and mental strength that I had, plus a little more that I never knew I had. The zig zagging switch backs that first lead us down the 3 hour, extremly steep rockey path to the river bed below was what I thought would be the toughest part. We crossed the bridge and then, continued on, only up hilll this time, now with lunch in mind, we stopped after about an hour of walking... no, hiking straight up hill to a tiny walk in only village of maybe 10 people. Here we lounged for a good 30 minuites and took in some traditional Andean food and plenty of water. I didnt mention this, but I think that it was still about 25 Degrees! For the second leg of our first day of trekking we walked along the side of the canyon, some ups, and some downs... both exceptionally difficult, but rewarding as we walked through a functioning town where there was never and will never be cars. A walk in walk out town where the Andean people wear traditional clothing and carry on day to day knowing that a trip to the city will require a pack mule and a 2am start to beat the heat. After 8 hours on the dusty trail, our legs were sore, our lungs hurt, and our bums were in more pain than I can even explain. With the motivation of our akwardly funny guide Ceaser, we made it to the Oasis on the otherside of the Canyon. The words that drove us there, Vamos Chicas, Vamos.

I imagined delux accomodation and delicious food after a hike as grueling as we did, but unfortunatly the only thing delux or delicious was the pool and the matte de coca at our hotel. Our 4 bed hotel room was actually a thatched hut with a dirt floor. Our door, also thatched had a piece missing, and the only form of light was the head lamps we trekked in with us. Dinner that night consisted of rice, veggies and something that looked and tasted like donkey tail. Not that I have tasted this before, but one can imagine.

Another 2am start, and we were en-route to our final accent. Straight up the deepest canyon in the world! Switch backing all the way up, passing mules who were treking in supplies and locals, we climbed 1300 meters in elevation. How many Kilometers Im un sure of, but we managed to finally walk into civilization at a little after 5am. Aching and sleep deprived, we made it. Looking down on the canyon I cant even possibly fathon that it was humanly possibly to walk down, let alone up, let alone straight across the deepest canyon in the world. So, from someone who has never considered herself a trekker I somehow managed. Maybe in order to consider myself a member of the club, I have to go to the extreme first.

So, now Im in Lima, enjoying my second to last night in a hostel, lagged from the overnight bus that hugged the cliffs and dodged the deep crevaces below, waiting to fly out on Sunday. Many more things to see and many more nights ahead, but for South America in 2010, this chapter of the book has ended. I will definatly return to visit Macchu Picchu which is not due to re open until April, and will definatly explore the real Galapagos Islands at some point.

Missing everyone and excited to be home for the big melt and the Olympic aftermath!
xx mish

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