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Published: March 14th 2008
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Wednesday 12th March Not too early a start - 7.30ish. Breakfast. 15 minutes on the internet to ask my Mum to help out with my financial mess for a couple of days. Ensure main pack is left for storage, as we have an overnight trip to Colco Canyon (partly to adjust to high altitudes, partly to see the flight of the Condors.. Similar to vultures, I believe). Onto the bus with Pilar, our guide, and Walter, our driver. We head off through some spectacular scenery, after we've gone through more of a slum village. Along with many other houses these look unfinished - Pilar explains - if the house is unfinished then tax is paid only on the land, so most houses remain 'unfinished' for ever... A few metal poles indicating a second floor seems to be all it takes. Only rains for about 6 days per year so no need for other than flat roofs either. About halfway to the destination we stop for 'el banos' and to try Coco de Mate (coca leaf tea, and yes, it's the same plant as cocaine but won't make you high!). As standing talking, someone comes to ask a question: 'Excuse me, but
aren't you Bex?', 2 seconds while the brain whirs and I realise it's Richard Davey who I worked with at Manchester! It's a small world after all, as they say... He left his new job, got married in January and is on a 3 month honeymoon! He's also grown his hair which is why it took that while to place him!
Back on the road, we are heading through a National Park, where there are photo stops for llamas (and llama signs). There's plenty of Alpaca, and some sighting of the rarer Vicunya (price difference for dirty wool Alpaca 10US$ per kilo, Vicunya 600US$ per kilo, even bigger difference when clean). Vicunya's are only 'shaved' alternate years, live less, and only produce 1/2kg per shaving. Very fine quality wool. Finished products therefore also expensive. Alpaca's shaved annually, produce 4kg per shaving... Although there are differences between brands. Much of the products sold at the tourist sites is still only 20% Alpaca, despite them saying otherwise - remainder synthetics. To get pure wool, have to pay appropriately, and preferably a guaranteed shop.
We shoot past 4800 metres, the highest point with great views, as it's a bit cloudy, half
the bus is asleep and Pilar reckons we'll feel better at the altitude tomorrow. So we eventually arrive at our hotel, check in, feed the tame llama - who is stood next to the llama which is being BBQ'd for our dinner. Beautiful food - lots of veggies/salad - so we all eat too much, remembering afterwards that Rod recommended to drink lots/eat to survive only, at altitude! Next step, after 45 minute doze (we are all feeling the altitude - we're at 3500m), to walk it off... Only a 4km walk, but is incredibly hard work - feel breathless and like have rocks in the legs.
Back at the hotel, quick turnaround, then off to the Thermal Pools, where we jump in at speed as the air is freezing, but the water is 36 degrees. Nice, outside, rain falling on our heads. After hour am bored, am first out. Others out 20 mins later, then we head to the tourist restaurant where set menu is 15 Soles, and can watch some regional dances. Meal is nice, but am over-full. Dances interesting to watch. We're last out, and all in bed by 10pm - we have a 530am wake-up
call organised.
Thursday 13th March 1am, wake up thinking am going to be sick. Feel very rough. Doze through rest of night. Do get up 530 - shower too cold to use - get dressed but feel really rough. Get to breakfast, don't fancy anything. Pilar notices am not well (later am told was really pale), so am sent back to bed. Rod comes to see me/ask about symptoms and quickly says, 'ah, you ate too much yesterday, no oxygen left to breathe'. 3 minutes later am drinking Coco tea and have an oxygen mask on for 10-15 mins. Feel well enough to go, and OK if sit at the front. We head along the bumpy road - all looks misty and it's freezing. Find our way to the Condor observation point by 9ish. We wait until 1030, but it's too cold/cloudy for them to be out. However, on the way back as we are stopping at various lookout point, we see a couple - none too close but impressive nonetheless. Back in Chivay, we go for lunch. I don't want any of the menu, but nibble on plain bread, have a coco tea.
Back on the road
and the weather is worsening. Don't think we're going to see much at 4800 feet. We don't - by that point it's snowing - unusual for this time of year, and by the time we get to the toilet/coco tea stop of yesterday the rain is quite torrential. Sitting shivering under the tin roof we all hope that the Inca Trail won't be wet - dry and a few clouds would be perfect, but we do it any which-ways. Bus got back into Arequipa at 6.30pm, went for banana sandwich for the bakery. Chucked bags into room sharing with Linda and Anna. Currently trying to catch up on internet/travelblog (but SD card apparently has a virus so this computer won´t read it), before packing bags/showering ready for another 5.30am start (but at one point we thought it was going to be 4-4.30am, so be grateful for small mercies!)
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