Momia Juanita - Arequipa

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After an evening of gazing out the window of the bus at the moon on the way to Arequipa, in this morning I'm greeted by the sun's crisp light coming through the shades. I turn back into the covers, but I am up a few hours later. Exhausted as I am it's hard to sleep-in when there's a world out there, which is every day. This day, though, it's a chore to put a load on the feet. Toes are sore, swollen and blistered, a fitting reward for efforts on the way to Andagua.

Mario, muleteer on our Andagua trek, must be cresting Cirani by now, making much better time on his return to Cabanconde now without the gringo in tow. Walking over this high and austere terrain was it seems no problem for the Inca natives, who somehow made it over the land bridge of the Bering Strait and south to the Americas. Wrapped in Alpaca woolens, they scaled their sacred mountains to bring sacrifice to their rocky mountain spirits, the Apus. The agenda today is going to see Momia Juanita, the mummy Juanita.

So first up is to find some salve for the feet. After a continental breakfast there's a flat-footed toe protecting walk to the Plaza de Armas, to one of the pharmacias there, for some medicated foot powder.

Juanita is in the Museo Santuarios Andinos in the Univesidad Catolica de Santa Maria. Check the wikipedia entry for Momia Juanita for the story of her discovery and resulting research.

She's ensconced in a insulated glass enclosure in a dimly lit space. The video explains how 500 years ago the Inca decided that times were such that a sacrifice of some of the best and brightest youngsters were required. It's difficult from this vantage point of a culture informed by science, to understand that a person might be honored by being chosen to give their life. It seems a stretch. But then I realize most cultures have some stories where sacrifice, willing or not, is involved. But were they honored? It says they were. The Aztecs, in contrast, sacrificed their prisoners. Inca sacrifed humans as a final step, a last resort.

It seems a little chilling, no pun intended, to see the mummy now, the first female to be found on the mountain top of Ampato, or anywhere, on display in her chilled enclosure.

We learn that Juanita shares genetics with Korean cultures. Her DNA was included in the Human Genome Project. The uniqueness of her find on Mt. Ampato is her state of preservation. The continuous cold air at 20,000 feet preserved her organs, hands, and hair.

Exiting the Museo on to calle La Merced I'm wondering if we've really changed that much? We've got the same brains, half reptile, half pre-frontal cortext, of our ancestors of thousands of years ago. Our predisposition for irrationality, if that's what it is, seems all too present. Maybe it is rationality that challenges us, and none can be smug. Compassion and love aren't rational or irrational.

It's a fine day outside, and I talk briefly with a couple from England, the Midlands, just arrived, and walking slowly as they adjust to the 7700 feet of Arequipa. They are off for Colca Canyon tomorrow, and I tell them about my trek. No thanks they say, and I realize that whatever has motived me to want to take a tough trek over rocky terrain up to 17,000 is not a rationale situation. Compared to those who want to go up Everest, I'm sane I conclude.

And all in all I am in better shape now for the next trek: the Inca Trail to Macchu Picchu. That starts in 3 days time.

My thanks to Edison, my guide, and Mario, our muleteer, for slowing down for me! Goodspeed to you!

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Photos

Reflections of LIfe
St. Francis at the Monasterio Catalina. This is the Cuzco School of painting.

Reflections
Cuzco School, Santa Catalina Monastery

Looking Back
Alive and well in Colca Canyon!