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Day 1: Cuy and Me
There was no hiding what it was. The little, splayed feet; the white incisors; even remnants of the whiskers. It was staring me down over the accompanying papas fritas. Yes, I was going to be eating a cuy. A guinea pig to norteamericanos. I tried not to think of my living toupée of a childhood pet, Pepper. But I am in Peru, so I had to try it...and, you know, it wasn't too bad. (And no, it didn't taste like chicken...)
***
Of all the points on my itinerary, Arequipa was perhaps the greatest unknown to me. It was to be a rest stop on the long haul between Nazca and Cuzco - that was all I knew. But despite my ignorance, I have fallen under the magical sway of this place. Indeed, the ciudad blanca or "White City" - so called for the rough hewn, off white volcanic rock, stillar, that was used to build much of Arequipa - has become, I must admit, perhaps my favorite city so far on this South American jaunt. The setting is spectacular, with snow capped volcanoes ringing the horizon. The weather could not be better:
cloudless blue skies, a warm sun during the day, a briskness in the air at night; the air fresh. The architecture is fantastic, from the porticoed Plaza de Armas (there's one in every city here) to the colonial mansions-turned-banks to the labyrithine monasteries/convents. Some left au natural, lending the overall white hue to the city. Some covered in gorgeous reds and blues and yellows.
Then there's the food. The Arequipeños take their food very seriously, and Gihan and I have more than benefited from our gastronomic tour of the city. Of course, there was the infamous fried cuy. But I have also dined on tender alpaca steak - yes, Meghan, I am continuing to eat my way through the animal kingdom! - and on creamy criollo soup. I have savored a chocolate cake filled with dulce de leche, washed down with a fortifying cortado in a courtyard café. The streets are lined with restaurants, many of which would be at home in a place like London or New York.
Day 2: Nuns Gone Wild
Perhaps Arequipa's most famous tourist spot is the Monasterio de Santa Catalina, which Gihan and I saved for our second day. Both
of us were enraptured by the colors that awaited us within its stillar walls. (My crazed attempt to capture the play of light and shadow with the transitions of color can be seen in the accompanying photographs...) Besides the beauty of the convent, its history proved wonderfully scandalous. Typically the second daughter (or son) of a family had to go into religious service. At Santa Catalina, many of these second daughter nuns came from quite wealthy families. Being used to a life of comfort, they brought servants, even slaves, into the convent with them. They also brought fine china and other "essential" items from home. For centuries it was a rather hedonistic place, complete with parties and musical affairs. It wasn't till the 19th century that the Vatican but a stop to the antics and the nuns were brought in line. Now there is still a small community of nuns who live in a cloistered part of the grounds. ("No parties, no slaves. Ah, remember the good ol' days!")
Another working convent now open to the public is the Museo de Arte Virreinal de Santa Teresa. As the name implies, besides being a Carmelite institution with 21 nuns (apparently
there can only be 21 at any one time), it is a museum of religious art. Our guide gave me a better understanding of what distinguished the so-called Cuzco School of religious art from that of Europe (most involving indigineous touches to landscape and "story"). This convent seemed to have been more on the up and up in its early phase!
***
Arequipa has been a surprise in all the best ways. I only regret I won't be able to stay longer to savor the tastes and colors of this city even more....but on to Cuzco!
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Those animals
I relish telling my darling niece, who desperately wants a guinea pig, that I know someone who eats them! I might even show her the pictures. Sounds cruel, but it isn't in our family. We all take part in the bad jokes and gag gifts, even the kids. That mannequin is a bit disturbing.