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Published: March 31st 2007
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Plaza de Armas
Colonial sillar architecture Legend has it that the beautiful town of Arequipa, Peru recieved its name from an Inkan soldier who, being enraptured by the valley´s beauty while on march with his fellow troops, asked his commander, "Are quipay?" The translation being, "Can we stay here?" The city is famous for the white volcanic rock found in the valley called sillar. This material was used to build many of the colonial buildings and churches in the area and now is used on the facades of many of the city´s finer homes. For this reason, locals say that when the moon separated from the earth, it forgot to take Arequipa. There are three large volcanoes sitting just outside of Arequipa - to the north is Chachani at 19931 feet, the central volcano is the majestic and perfectly cone shaped El Misti at 19101 feet and to the south is Pichu Pichu at 18277 feet.
The trip to this enchanting city was an overnight bus from Pisco, and I was sure that in the morning when I woke I would be magically transoprted, as if in a time capsule, to somewhere on the eastern slope of the Andes and though I was wrong I
was not dissapinted. In the morning I awoke with the sun shining on to my face as I sat in the front seat of the second level of the bus. I quickly wished I was still asleep. The highway was thin and banked around the intense Andean landscape through countless hairpin turns. We passed with reckless abandon, often forcing oncoming cars and busses to swerve out of the way as the driver squeezed in between other vehicles that had left enough room to fit, maybe, a shortbus in between. Not to mention the fact that sitting in the second level only accentuated the sway of the bus around the turns we constantly took at frightening speeds. The small villages we passed reflected a population more in harmony with their environments than those villages in the lowlands. Terraced homes made of sturdy rock, not thin clay, reflected the terracing of the agricultural lands surrounding the villages.
The first stop was El Caminante Class hostel boasting clean and beautiful rooms, hot showers, all the Coca mate one can drink (a delicious earthy tea from the leaves of the same plant used to make cocaine, though the tea is not at all
like cocaine) and a rooftop terrace that assured breakfast with Arequipa´s long time friends - Chachani, Misti and Pichu Pichu. The next stop was the Monestario de Santa Catalina, established in 1579 just forty years after the city was founded, that takes up an entire city block. The monestary was opened for the first time to the public in 1970. Before that the nuns, who have constantly numbered thirty or so, lived cloistered behind the huge walls of the monestary. I found it paradoxical that religion which seems to me to strive to be a welcoming and communal institution can justify one locking themself away for the rest of thier life in their own search for God. Is it just me, or does that seem selfish to anyone else? Still, the monestary was quite impressive having survived many fires, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions. Not to mention the fact that the walls were frequently colored in either a smooth brick red or a stunning blue, the color of which resembles the blue paint of the Greek Isles.
Museums were also on the agenda, the most impressive of which was the Museo Santuarious Andinos that houses various Inkan burial artifacts as
well as the frozen mumified remains of a girl sacrificed on the summit of Mount Ampato, 20630 feet, by the Incans some 500 years ago. It is not only the fact that the mummy is still intact and kept at negative four degrees Fahreheit that is amazing, but also that the Inkans walked all the way from Cuzco (many many miles) to get there. They had no modern mountaineering equipment and they summited wearing flat leather sandals. Though Cuzco sits at a high altitude, it is nowhere near that of Ampato. Simply AMAZING.
Arequipa is not only famous for its grand colonial architecture, stunning religious buildings and its white sillar facades, but it is at the heart of the Peruvian textile industry boasting impressive weaves in traditional Inkan patterns as well as everything you can imagine made from alpaca wool, of which the baby´s is by far the most soft and delicate. The sheer number of vendors and their proximity to each other amazes me and leaves me wondering how they manage to all stay in business.
Furthermore, the Arequipan markets were amazing to behold. Fruit of every kind and color, freshly butchered carne, pollo and lamb (often
out on the street being sold in the sun; unsanitary you say? then why are they still able to sell it?), pots and pans, hardware supplies, school clothes and supplies, shoes, shirts and jewelry. I think you could probably find anything you wanted if you just looked hard enough.
Arequipa is also known throughout Peru as being devoutly Catholic and processions for Semana Santa, their most important week, were beginning. The men were dressed in white robes oddly similar, okay the exact same, as the robes we are shown the KKK wearing (yes I am well aware that this Catholic tradition started long before the KKK´s tradition of hate). They carried giant mannequins of Jesus and Mary ornately garbed on gorgeous golden thrones. The parade was quite incredible to watch.
Finally, as I promised to one of my best friends Mr. Adam Brenneman, I ordered one of the traditional meals of Peru: guinea pig called Cuy Chactao. The poor little fella came cooked in the traditional style, charred whole on a hot stone with head, legs, little claws, guts and all. I forced down about two thirds of the rodent and that was almost to much to manage.
Mercado Central
Fruits and vegitable stands extend 15 feet up, the sellers scramble up little steps located on either side To be perfectly honest it tasted like cooked fish that has spent one too many days in the fridge. Seriously bad. The only saving graces were the fried potatoes, the tiny bit of rib meat and the musica folklorica players who sang in traditional Aymaran and Quechuan tounges.
That is all for now folks! If you made it this far I am impressed. Thanks for reading and my next entry should be up soon. It will be about Puno on Lake Titikaka!
Peace be with you all... Heart, Simon
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cam2yogi
Cameron Karsten
Sammy
Sammy, he must be proud of you for eating his chops and innards. Now I think you can say you officially severed the umbilical chord. You're free my Brotha. And my homie, surfing early this morning was fantastic. Big, dense waves, peeling green like... yeah. As well as eagles, deer, seals and believe it or not... breaching gray whales rolling in the waves with the flippers and blow holes. I missed ya my man! Safe Travels! And keep the journeys comin' With Peace, Love, cam