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Published: June 20th 2007
Snake Liqour
The local poison at Shantas Bar, Vilcabamba, Ecuador. So here we are in Peru! We made it over the border safe and sound even though they werent that sure about Lee - well who is?!
We left Cuenca a day early because although pretty we were running out of things to keep us entertained and hopped on the bus to Vilcabamba which has to be the best few days of our trip so far! We pitched up at about 7ish and headed for what sounded like the best hostal in town (in our price range) where everything was included like the sauna, steam room, DVD's, internet, pool, jacuzzi, dinner and breakfast. That would be great, if it all worked. The jacuzzi was cold, internet didnt work and we werent allowed to use the sauna so we checked out the next day and did actually find the best one in town. However that night we neede food (we had missed the 6pm dinner which was included in the price) so we headed off into town and everything was shut! Ok its a small town but could it get any worse? No. As we walked back to our hostal we passed what looked like the dodgiest retaurant in the world
Rumble in the Jungle!
Hacking our way through the undergrowth in Podocarpus National Park, Vilcabamba, Ecuador. and decided to take our chances (we were starving). We were greeted by Ecuadors answer to Steve Irwin and animal carcasses and jaws adorning the walls. A bit creeped out but starving we persisted and were treated to some great food and excellent company. The place and owner were callled Shantas and enetertained us with stories of the local area and how the stuffed triantula on the bar actually died. But the highlight of the evening was when he offered us snake liqour. Up until that point we were wondering if the snake in the jar on the bar was alive or not - turns out he isnt but has been fermenting in alcohol and sugar cane for a few years to produce the local poison! Of course Lee had to have some (I politely declined). So whilst straddled a saddle for a barstool down the hatch it went - apparently tastes like tequila, yuk! Were not lying and have photographic evidence! Then to add to the eerieness there was a powercut and out came the candles to cast scary shadows over the departed animals that surrounded us. What an introduction the Vilcabamba and it only got better.
The next
The Good, the Bad and the Ugly!
You decide which! Gavin´s mountain refuge, Vilcabamba, Ecuador. day we checked out of the ruins (hostal ruinas de quinara) and into the best place we have stayed so far called Izycaluma (sorry clown). It is a German run hostal set out of town high up overlooking the valley with magnificient views. They were so friendly and everything was amazing from the room to the huge amounts of great food that was dished up. I could never finish a meal which is sooooooooooo unlike me! It was from here that we set up a little hiking tour of the National Park with a local guide called Jose Maria. It was sold as an 'alternative' trek of the park and that couldnt be more true. What we did that day, stories and photos cant express because they dont show the sheer magnitude of what we climbed. Yes climbed. This was by know means a trek! We hopped on the bus with Jose and then an hour later got off in the middle of nowhere. Out comes the machete and he hacks our way into the jungle. No signposted path or designated lookout points - he made them. We literally hacked our way into the thick of the jungle and saw
Sunset over the Valley of Longevity
View from our overnight base in a drunken stupor! Vilcabamba, Ecuador. some great stuff, mainly free flying toucans, but it was as we started to ascend the mountain that the fun began. Being the rainforest funnily enough it was raining, and didnt stop. As we got higher up the climb got more steep, the slope got more slippery and the path being hacked got narrower. We realised it was Jose's intention to get to the peak and down the other side by swinging from vines and crawling over the tops of trees! When you grab onto a root to lift yourself onto the next ledge and it comes off in your hand you get a little freaked. The path became only as wide as us and knife edge with sheer drops either side and behind us. No ropes, hats, or harnesses but Jose saying you are very safe with me and only 30 minutes more to the top. Climbing became crawling and if Lee wouldnt get off his hands and knees because he was so scared what the hell was I doing up here! At the top there was a meter sqaured patch for all 3 of us to stand on and Jose thought we should take photos. Well Lee wouldnt
Where´s wally?
Ruins at Chan Chan in Trujillo, Peru get off his hands and knees and there was no way I was looking through a camera lens and trying to keep my balance so unfortunately the photos really dont show the enormity of the climb and the peak we were standing on. We had climbed from 1500m to 2700m in 2 hours. Luckily the descent was far kinder (you couldnt go down the way we came up) and took just as long. Then we got back on the bus filthy with mud and had to stand for an hours bus ride back dripping all over the locals. We are glad we have lived to tell the tale and it was one of the beat adventures had so far. Thanks Jose!
We had to light a fire that night to dry our bags and shoes (I have now shrunk my left boot and will defo have black toenails by the end of the trip) because we were so soaked and we had a 2 day horse trek booked for the next day so we needed everything dry.
Caballos Galvin is the name of the company that a kiwi called Gavin runs, pony treaks for 1,2 or 3 days. This man
Totora Reed Boats
Boats used by fisherman in Huanchaco, Peru. They double up as a makeshift surfboard! is the craziest person alive and at the rate he is going, wont be for much longer. We arrive ready to ride at 9am and instantly I get told I have the crazy pony because I have experience - brilliant! As soon as we were mounted we set off at a gallop through town and I instantly gave up trying to ride Colorado (my pony) but instead let go of the reins and grabbed a chunk of mane to hold on for dear life. Poor Lee who has barely ridden 3 times in his life was treated to his first gallop on a pony through the traffic of a small town on tarmac just after having his breakfast! Hold on mums, it gets better! We successfully made it through town albeit hanging off the side and began the ascent up the mountain to Gavins mountain refuge where we were staying the night. Tracks barely wide enough for humans to go single file down were the route we undertook and Lee's face as Gavin proceeded to make the ponies gallop down the tracks, instead of a careful walk, was just a picture! We crossed rivers with the ponies knee deep, had dogs chase them (galloping yet again) down pathways and then took on the steady vertical climb up rocky routes to 2700m. Terrifying but brilliant! Gavin was fairly quiet on the way up but as we reached our destination at 2pm (a little bit saddle sore), Gavin produced a litre bottle of Vodka and fixed us some lunch. It soon became clear that Gavin has taken far too many of every single drug under the sun in his youth and is now a raving alcoholic! By 10pm Lee and Gavin had worked there way through nearly 2 litres of vodka and 2 litres of wine (I was yet again having tummy troubles and after riding up a mountain on the back of a horse, very dehydrated with not a toilet in sight was very much at one with mother nature). However during this drunken charade Gavin managed to rustle up a great meal (although it took him 2 hours to cook it) and we were priviledged to witness one of the most amazing sunsets over 'The Valley of Longevity' (Vilcabambas other name) that I have ever seen. Gavins drunken ramblings were hilarious and we got all the local gossip as well as the meaning of life and how to avoid stomach mushrooms in India - yes it was crazy but would defo do it all over again! After a night in a little mountain hut that was so basic it was just a hut, Lee and I watched the sunrise as Gavin whipped up pancakes for breakfast and then we rounded up the horses for treacherous descent. Thankfully because the mountain is so steep you actually walk most of the way down not on horseback. However as predicted once we had crossed the river at the bottom it was back in the saddle for the speedy ride home and you know how much more eager horses are on their way home! We stopped at a cafe owned by another ex-pat gringo, for beers obviously, and finally dismounted at 3ish with sore bums and light heads! Although a bit unorthodox, it was the best pony trek ever and would thoroughly reccomend Gavins services to anyone headed that way not least for the sheer entertainment value. If you like your liver we reccomend the 2 day trek only! Back to Izycaluma to rest our sore limbs and recuperate before the overnight journey to Peru the following day. As we had the day to wait before the bus journey what better way to spend it than massages in the morning, lunch on the terrace and movies and hot chocolate in the afternoon - aaahhhhhhhh!
The crossing into Peru was extended by the passport control machines going on the blink but we soldiered on and after 3 buses, 18 hours, one sunset and one sunrise we finally arrived in the coastal town of Mancora, Peru, to glorious sunshine and perfect waves. There was never any doubt we were going to like this place.
After a 'refreshing' shower (hostals dont have hot water here as they claim they dont need it) we hit the beach and watched another gorgeous sunset of orange and pink skies. That was pretty much how we spent the next few days with Lee in the surf and me on the beach (my surfing career has been put to rest - Im crap). Of course typically Lee broke a board and I got a sunburnt bum so it was all fun and games. We visited the mud baths (sorry bath) that was 2m squared but advertised like it was the size of a lido. It was a natural hot spring though in mineral packed mud so we were as happy as little piggies. There has been a few other gringoes that we keep bumping into everywhere we go and in Mancora there was quite a group of us that were there at the same time which lead to rum filled nights on the beach and sore heads the next day. We jumped on another night bus after a few days and headed for another beach resort further south but this was totally different!
Huanchaco is just north of Trujillo, Peru's 3rd largest city, famed for having quite a few pre Inca ruins. Huanchaco spends most of the year covered in "garua" (coastal mist) and thats where the major difference lies. It is bloody freezing and so is the water that surfing here makes the UK feel warm. Spent the first day just wandering the streets and trying to wish our dads Happy Fathers Day, so hope you had a good one papa´s as didnt get hold of either of you! Great food but shit hostal so moved to a different one the next day where everyone who had followed us from Mancora had just turned up. So with quite a party we set off for the Ruins of Chan Chan that date back to pre-Inca times of AD1300 and were the main home of the Chimu Empire. It is the largest adobe city in the world and there was still quite a lot to see considering the amount of "el ninos" this coast line encounters. After being harassed by this old crow trying to sell us a tour for 45 soles each, we got an official tour guide (who was a sweet old dear) to show the 8 of us round for 25 soles all in! Well worth it......! We continued the day with a walk in Trujillo and some lunch before shopping for a feast in the supermarket, It was the first hostal we´ve stayed in to have an open kitchen and we wanted to take full advantage.
Needless to say the next day was met with hazy heads by all. Luckily enough the sea was cold enough to clear even the worst headache as lee decided to brave the surf. Provided with a 3mm shorty wetsuit he lasted an unimpressive hour before turning blue and retiring to the cafe to drink hot chocolate with me.
Thats about the size of it until now, we have just arrived in Huaraz for a week of mountain climbing and i´m sure it wont be long before you can hear how that went. Enjoy the photos and if you look at the last blog there is some more to see there too. Bye for now lots of love and hope you are all well!
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Auntie Rita
non-member comment
I have just read your latest, cant believe how much you are cramming in, you are obviously having the best time of your life,, thinking about you Love aunty Rita xx