The Man from Medellin

---

There I was, in a foreign country, it’s very late at night, sitting in an artist’s studio being sketched by a Columbian artist and chatting in a language I barely know with him and his friend visiting from Medellin, drinking hot tea, listening to a country band from Austin, Texas. Certainly the most surreal experience I’ve had yet!

How did I end up in this situation? Well, Cuenca is the cultural center of Ecuador. Artists are everywhere! One night I was taking a stroll down by the river, my favorite part of town, and in my usual friendly way was nodding ´hi´ to people as I passed looking for someone to practice my bad Spanish on. One of them stopped me, grabbed my hand, and introduced himself in Spanish. 'Hi, I’m Lucas, from Medellin'. How strange - I’ve been having a small obsession with Colombia for the past few weeks and a man from Medellin walks right into me! We chatted for awhile; he spoke no English so we made small talk in Spanish. He complimented me on my Spanish, gave me some earrings he made as a gift, and we went for coffee. When the coffee shop closed, we decided to walk around some more, but, he had his jewelry with him and wanted to drop it at his friend’s house. We walked over to his friend’s house and he opened the door and gestured for me to enter. It opened to a dark hallway with a staircase. Very dark. I told him I was afraid of the dark. He assured me there would be light. I entered the dark hallway.

OK, now, I know what most of you are thinking right now. Why in the f*** would I do something like this? Enter into a dark house, with a strange man I had just met. My intuition told me this man was safe. And, he wasn’t going to hurt me. So … I entered.

At the top of the stairs, we went through a hallway and through a door to an outer courtyard of sorts, and then through another door to a brightly lit studio where his friend Carlos was working on some sketches. Carlos wanted to practice on a live subject and asked if I would mind sitting for a few. 'Of course' I said. What girl doesn’t want to be a model! Anyway, he proceeded to do several sketches that were actually very good! I made plans to meet up with Carlos the next day to trade help with Spanish and English lessons and Lucas walked me back to my hotel. To make a long story short, Carlos and I ended up hanging out together for my last three days in Cuenca. He, helping me with my Spanish by conversing with me for long hours discussing our philosophies of life, me teaching him the English ABCs! And in the evenings, we attended an unusual modern dance show and art receptions! On my last day, I decided he was such a treasure that I had to share him with my girlfriends from Ireland. We all met for drinks for my last day. I think he took a liking to Bronagh! I look forward to finding out what happens between those two!

My last night in Cuenca, Carlos and I went out to a Columbian restaurant, where we each drank three shots of some kind of Columbian firewater and danced a few merengues! Afterwards, we went to a bar where he ordered a large jar of Canelazo, a traditional Ecuadorian Canelazo served warm. Needless to say, afterwards, I was just spewing Spanish! Then, we went to another karaoke bar where he ordered another jar of Canelazo and then serenaded me with a bunch of Mexican, Columbian and Ecuadorian songs!

So, what have I learned so far? Well, in addition to knowing my calling is not working with children, it is also not in modeling. I’m just too fidgety to sit still for any length of time. I’ve also learned that maybe I can speak a little Spanish after all! With enough Canelzo in me anyway!

My formal schooling in Spanish ended Friday. My instructor, Vivian and I, went out for coffee. I am going to miss her. She has become not only my teacher but a friend.

I will also miss my hotel. The senora that prepares the breakfasts has been greeting me with ´mi hija´ (my daughter) when she sees me in the morning!

But, it is time to move on. Cueca is very cold and rainy right now. I need the sun. So, I decided to go with my friend, Andrea, to the Galapagos Islands! She has been obsessively researching trips for the past several weeks and has found a great deal. I never originally planned to go, but, everyone I have talked to just raves about it. So, I’m moving on.

My Cuenca leg of journey has officially ended as I am now in Guayaquil where a plane will take us to the Galapagos Islands tomorrow. My time in Cuenca has been amazing! I have learned so much and met so many wonderful and interesting people. I hope to return someday as I love the City and the people.

Guayaquil is overwhelming after the small, colonial town of Cuenca. It is a large City with millions of people. We are staying downtown where there is a beautiful waterfront called the Malecon 2000. We walked to another area, Peñas, which is a little strange. The section covers a hillside. The streets are actually pedestrian steps that meander through bohemian type stores, artisan shops, and restaurants. The buildings are painted pastels. It looks quite quaint on the surface. But, don’t look too far off the main steps where it starts to fade into a very poor barrio.

So, lucky readers, this is my last Cuencan entry. I will be out of touch, living on a boat, for the next eight days. But, my next posting should contain, I hope, a new, great adventure and some great pictures for you!

I leave you with the recipe for Canelazo:

1 liter water
Naranjillas (an Ecuadorian fruit - you can probably substitute limes)
Sugar
Cinnamon
Zhumia (Ecuadorian liquor - substitute rum)

Boil the water, cut up the naranjillas and add to the water. Add cinnamon and sugar. Heat for about 10 minutes. Mix with Zhumia by pouring into a small glass.

Salud!

LuAnne

---

Photos

Arte en Cuenca
Artwork by an American artist that is on exibit at Casa de los Arcos.

Profesora Viviana
My friend and patient professor, Viviana.

Peñas
View of Peñas from El Malecon.

El Malecon
View of El Malecon from Peñas.