Cloud Forests

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Matt Writes

Had to pack with a fuzzy head this morning as we head off for 3 days horse riding and trekking. We saddled up and were riding out of town like a fist full of dollars by 10, would of looked better at noon I thought.

Accompanying us was a man from Norway whom had just bought a horse to ride to Cuzco and was getting to grips with Saddles and well, everything you need to know if you have never ridden before (brave or stupid man). Then there was the teacher from Seattle and a Dutchman though intellectual, monopolised conversation far too much. Finally we had New Zealander Gavin with two beautiful daughters Alma & Izabelle. He was our guide with assistiant Christian.

Soon I was caught at the back of the group embroiled in a detailed history the Duchman's investments in the real estate market. While everyone else got the chance to gallop, my horse took this opportunity to amble very seriously and would set pace for the remainder of the day.

Out of the town and up and up we climbed, deeper into the valley and into the foothills of the Andes. We stopped for lunch by a river, waterfall close by, and then crossed - horses knee deep over rock and rapid. I ensured this time that I was at front of the pack, in front of the Dutchman, and foremost away from his conversation.

The route was stunning but quite technical in our limited knowledge of horse riding. Steep ascents with horrific falls back down to the river now far below. The horses now drenched in sweat, were panting hard. The climb eased and forest soon surrounded us. On and on a clearing formed amonst the greenary, our wooden lodge and refuge for the next 2 nights. Leading the trail with one of our guides, Christian I thought there may be chance of a gallop as we hit open grass although my hopes of wild and free sprint were dashed as my horse recalled its earlier stroll and could not be convinced that anthing more than a jog would be an extravagence.

Our timing to camp was imaculate at clouds had followed our journey up the valley and the heavens opened just as we had unpacked the saddles. Gavin then tendered to making fire and supper as we sampled some vodka and more of the Dutchman's conversation (so much so that teacher from Seattle decided to leave the next day).

We however, remained and treked higher and deeper into the Cloud Forest named due to its altitude amongst the cloud. The scenary was incredible with waterfalls, orchids and the mystical haze of cloud that rolled in and out between the mountains. We came to a clearing where again Gavin served up a scrumcious lunch with homemade homous as we admired the panorama. Then it was a race down a much easier decent to reach the refuge before the afternoon rain joined us for a well earned drink.

Our second and last night was much more relaxed as we had all mastered diverting Duchman´s theories on Tribal culture, herbology, anthropology (facinating though he was, a one way dialogue tires even the most avid of listeners). We played cards, smoked a homemade pipe and tried to recall names given to collections of animals - gaggles of geese, flight of bees etc.

Gavin our guide was a gracious host who has published a book of poems and is currently working on a novel (his history is exciting enough to write an autobiography). I am glad we didn't let a personality clash spoil our adventure and hope that others consider this when sharing close close quarters with strangers. Look up Galvin in Villcabamba, everyone knows him and treat yourself to a great few days in the wilderness. And if you hear about a Norwegian horseman, riding into Cuzco, that will be Louie.

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Photos

Cow Girl
I'm not sure the horses realised they would be working boxing day when they signed up for this paper round.

Cloud Horses
Our last morning was beautifully clear, the moon still in the sky. Vilcabamba shrouded in low cloud far away deep in the Valley.

Cards by Candle
With no electricity, night drawn in quick. Nothing a game of cards and a bottle of Vodka can't cure.