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Published: August 2nd 2006
Josh at our campsite early in the morning
This was one of the rare glorious moments we had sunshine in Cajas!Well, to start off with we got taken like a farm boy playing the shell game in the New York subway. We could not get a bus to Cajas from Cuenca´s main bus station, like all the guide books swear you can, so we ended up hiring a taxi to take us all the way there (45 mins) for 15 bucks. We chatted with the guy the whole way there and had a great ride up into the mountains. He brings us to this gate and says it is the entrance to the park all we have to do is walk through, and drives off. Snookered. He dropped us off at a chapel at least an hour walk uphill from the park and drove away with a tip to boot.
Luckily we got a ride with this great Ecuadorian family in the back of a pickup all the way to the trailhead. The map that they give you for hiking in Cajas is very vague with regards to trails and critial infrastructure, while the IGM topographical maps do not have trails on them. So at the trailhead where the family dropped us off we took what we thought was the
Start of the hike
This was when I was still very enthusiastic - no altitude sickness yet! trail according to the park map, but which turned out to be completely the wrong direction. To compound the problem poor little Martina was not doing so hot at 14,000 ft, she got a terrible headache from climbing in the thin air. So we went slow and took many breaks. We bushwacked our way over the mountains, which was not too difficult because it is open country.
We finally got over the mountain and camped at a beautiful mountain lake on the other side, but Martina got worse and stayed up most the night with her headache. It is freezing in Cajas, cold, windy, and wet; yet so pretty. It was nice to be tucked away in our tent with the nasty weather. Martina kept hearing the tent flaps blowing and she swore it was the Cajas Lopper, stalking us and just waiting for the right moment to strike. So she had a rough night, but she still loved being there - the scenery was stunning and we were practically the only people out there.
When we woke up it was crystal clear and gorgeous, Martina felt better, so I felt less guilty. We packed up and got
Llamas!
Because the trails in this park aren´t very clear the llamas were a huge help - they have dug little trails all over the place for us. walking, there were all kinds of beautiful tiny alpine plants and incredible vistas. You feel more alive when you are surrounded by such beauty, it was amazing. We went slow and took a multitude of breaks, so it was not too rough on her. We had lunch by a clear mountain stream and then headed to the next lake where we settled down for camp. It started raining as soon as we got the tent up so we played cards until we went to sleep. The next morning we hiked out to the road where we caught the bus back to Cuenca at the park entrance, which was not on the right place on the map. Cajas was beautiful, I definately want to return someday and cover more ground, it is one of the most sublime places I have visited. We hope you enjoy our photos, which do not do the real thing justice.
Love,
Josh and Martina
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Robert
non-member comment
I'm fishing with my boat and I'm fishing for trout
You guys are the real deal, following the llamas through the hills! I'm impressed. But the hostel looked so comfy! But then again, I'm on vacation at the bed and breakfast formerly known as my parents' house here in Houston and the only altitude I can deal with is the overpass on 610! Can't wait to hear about the trip when you get back. Take care and enjoy Ecuador. R