Quito, Cotopaxi & Robbers

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The hostals are probably all much of a muchness in La Mariscal district but I stayed in a nice, cheery place called Hostel Bask at $5. After arriving late into Quito I promptly ignored all advice to acclimatize properly for a couple of days before attempting anything strenuous and signed myself up to climb Volcan Cotopaxi, one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. Come to think of it which other volcanoes are higher than Cotopaxi? Maybe I should write, THE highest volcanoe in the world.

Anyway, we set off early (6am) the next morning for the Volcan, but after the usual faffing and it being 60ks from Quito, I should have known we wouldn´t actually start climbing until mid morning when the sun was well and truly tucked into the clouds.

Cotopaxi is 5897m tall. And for those of you who have only gone up hills in England, it´s a whole different ball game climbing this bad boy. You walk as if you have glue from the waist down. I thought our guide was taking the piss when he set off at the pace of an OAP. It wasn´t until one of the lads tried to overtake that he gave us the warning to go VERY slowly otherwise we are likely to faint or worse. I must admit there were times I did feel quite light headed and a little nauseous and so, was thankful of the snails pace. You also need several layers at this height, which you will keep taking off and putting on again. I found myself with 5 hats on at one point.

Once out of the jeep, at the dropping off point, you will instantly notice that the terrain is pretty arid, probably due to the fact that there have been about 10 eruptions destroying the surrounding plant and human life, namely the nearby town of Latacunga.

As your making your way to the Refugio at 4800m, you see lots of straw like grass and shrubs and a few plants that are struggling to survive in the harsh climate. Apparently, there is plenty of wildlife around, loads of birds and deers etc. We were lucky enough to get close to a beautiful Andean fox, who almost seemed to be posing for my camera. Typical that I have no record of my skills as a wildlife photographer because some bastard nicked my camera.

The day trip up Cotopaxi was well worth it, especially as I had negotiated the tour operator down from $45 to $20. It included: a hike to the Refugio, a further 100m climb to the glaciers across the snow and then mountain bike down to the lake to finally enjoy a delicious hot chocolate at a beautiful hostal nearby.

Quito

You can spend a day looking around the ¨Centro Historico¨ or, if you´re mad for museums and churches, maybe two days. I went around two churches and no museums but I can really recommend one of the churches I did go round, or up, if we´re being pedantic.

I´m not at my best on a ladder and if you don´t like ladders, or heights for that matter, then this church is going to test you. Basilica del Voto Nacional is the tallest church in Ecuador. You pay a couple of bucks and up you can climb, 115m on a wide variety of ladders. Very steep ones, thin ones, outside ones, inside ones, ones with wide gaping gaps between each rung, or more sturdy ones. But ladders, ladders, ladders. I forced myself up the first tower only to find that I had only just begun. There follows a series of steep metal ladders from which you can go inside the clock and bell towers and right to the very top for views of the whole city. It´s pretty absent of other people too, there was only one Japenese South American there with me!

I also went to a couple of Parks in Quito but they are nothing to write home about so I packed my bags for Otavalo, the famous colourful Saturday market, just up the road from Quito.

Otavalo

This place is a photographers dream.

One of the most evident features of coming here is the dress of the indigenous people. Again, I got some fantastic photos but sadly they will never see the light of day. The women wear long black skirts and shawls with bright jewelery, strings of gold and red beads around their arms and necks, and often have another shawl/sack for carrying their baby and/or things. The men are all in the ponchos and cowboy hats you see in films. However, you really get the feeling that these clothes are not just put on for the benefit of tourists, but that they are a real part of their tradition and identity.

The animal market gets underway early doors (I got up at 7am) but it can be a little disturbing for those with an empathy for animals. I saw one dead cow, that was lying by the truck it had obviously fallen out of, plus two twisted and horribly panting sheep in the back of another truck as well as several screaming pigs and cages crammed of chickens.

The food market is stall-upon-stall of colourful fruit and vegetables, interspersed with rows of women sitting by bags, of many different varieties, of grains. Fantastic.

Baños

Nice, middle class place set in a green valley with walking paths and nearby mountains to explore. I would have found it tranquil and relaxing had I not had MY GOD DAMN CAMERA AND CD PLAYER STOLEN from my bag on the bus to here.

Yes, the piece of scum, actually went into my zipped bag, that was between my legs, and took the items without me noticing a thing. They really are that professional. I burst into tears as soon as I discovered what had happened and immediately a woman came over to sit next to me, plying me with tissues and concern for the next 40mins after I not very successfully explained what had happened.

The large glasses of wine eased me into sleep that night and the next day I woke up realising it was not THAT important. With my two, new, German friends we decided to go for a "walk" up the steps to the large Virgin perched on the top of the hill. This "walk" is not for the unfit. The steps are steep and there are many of them, however, it only takes about 20mins until you´re at the top. We were then keen to press on and summit the mountain. Now, there are two paths once you leave the Virgin; one that goes up and one that curves around the mountain. We took the one that goes up, and it really does just go up and up. There is no break. It is really tough. The two German lads were incredibly fit and left me trudging behind, feeling incredibly out of shape, but not able to make myself go any faster. It was a boiling hot day, which probably didn´t help, but literally after about an hour, my progress consisted of taking 10 steps and stopping (to get my breathing back to a pant - which meant I could actually breathe) and then slowly continuing with another 10 steps.

The satisfaction is not the view at the top, because quite frankly it is just a field without a proper look out point, no, my satisfaction was in the form of some squashed avocados and a mango and the fact that the boys told me they had not been waiting too long!

All in all, it was a 5hr hike, and I felt that evening, I deserved a plunge in the famous hot thermal baths. There is only one bath that is open at night, Piscinas de la Virgen, and it is incredibly crowded. You need to leave your British sense of personal space firmly in the cloakroom as you share the small, square "bath" with the rest of the population of Baños. It´s actually very relaxing and afterwards you feel really chilled and contented. Nice.

I hired a mountain bike on my second day in Baños and had a fantastic day. The road to Punya is pretty much all down hill. The biking is not strenuous at all, but hugely enjoyable. You whizz down the road cutting through the mountains, passing onto a cycle track (dirt road) which means there are no buses or lorrys pushing you off the road. The track takes you along several waterfalls and I gladly resisted the temptation to push on without getting off my bike to enjoy these rivers. The first waterfall I stopped at I was paranoid about my bike being stolen so, I lugged it all the way down to the water and consequently couldn´t really relax once down by the river, knowing I was going to have to carry it all the way up again. Probably not necessary but it was just after my robbery so the wound was still sore.

The second waterfall I stopped at was superb, called Manto de la Novio. I parked my bike at the roadside, after chatting up the local jewellery seller who promised to look after it for me and made my way down to a little wooden bridge I had seen below that crossed the wide ravine. The bridge was a typical, Indiana Jones style, bridge which swung as you stepped on it and between it´s wooden slats you could see the gushing river, far below.

Once across, I decided to walk up to the look-out point, at the top of the waterfall, which I had spied from where I had left my bike. This was a pleasant 40min walk where you pass through a school, which happened to be having their PE lesson (which consisted of the kids doing star jumps). I couldn´t resist joining in, much to the amusement of the kids.

It turned out the path didn´t take me to the look-out point, but it did take me to another wobbly bridge where I decided to have my lunch. I lay on the warm, wooden slats, in the middle of the bridge as the river flowed beneath me and the eagles circled above me. In that moment, I can say I was happy.

I never like taking the same path I have taken so, I took a different one to lead me back. Also still hoping it might get me to the look-out point I had seen earlier. Anyway, after about an hour of walking along a very, boggy path, I eventually came across a house. The thought did occur to me that if the owner didn´t like tourists or had a thing for English girls I could seriously be in trouble as there was no-one around. I had just rounded the corner and was taking the path away from the house when the dogs started to attack. The bugger really went for me. Thank god for my bag which I used as a shield, thrusting it at it each time it lunged for me.

Once that trauma was over, I was soon to embrace another one. My path came to a dead end, well, someone´s house. The only way back was past the psychopathic dog or across the ravine on a basket attached to a pully. OH, MY GOOD GOD. I couldn´t go back to the dog, it would recognise me and really up its game. But I couldn´t go across the huge ravine on a rickety pully system.

I pulled myself into the "seat" and waited, talking to myself the whole time, much to the bemusement of the local. It started moving, and swaying and making all the sounds you do not want to hear when you´re hundreds of meters above water and rocks. I don´t think I stopped shouting until the guy at the other side greeted me. As I scrambled up onto lovely, firm ground, a couple who had been watching my progress asked me how it was. The girlfriend was clearly terrified. "Esta bien. No problema", I lied.

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Photos

Cotopaxi
Andean fox

Cotopaxi
Refugio at 4800m where we got a hot coffee before climbing on to the glacier.

Cotopaxi
The mighty volcano

Cotopaxi
On the glacier at 4,900m

Cotopaxi
Receiving the safety talk before we cycle down. We are all freezing and wondering if our bare hands will be able to operate the brakes.

Cotopaxi
Relaxing at the lake after the mountain biking down.

Otavalo
Women in traditional dress at the market.

Comments

[crooked finger]

Headache city
Whooh you did it - am i turning green? i think i might be. Nice one matey - indeed the highest, meanest, fattest volcanoe in the world. Gx

[jason mann]

well done bond girl
hello jo, good to look at your pics, hello gary too! whats you up to, well io climbed cotopaxi, i think i went a bit higher than you, but got to about 200 meters from the top, a girl i was with was very ill and we had to return, the safe thing to do. it was a lovely veiw though and but i did not have time for a cup of tea at the top, loads of love jason x