Llamarama

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Since the last time:

No problems crossing the border from Colombia to Ecuador and no 24 hour journeys involved. The truck was waiting to meet us at Ipiales just inside the Colombian border. The flight from Bogota had involved stopping in transit for 7 minutes (!) at somewhere very hot which I think was called Asis. We got off the plane, walked to a big cage which was then locked, got out and walked back to the plane. And it also started snowing inside the plane as we were about to land, but I´m sure there´s a scientific explanation for that. Crossing the border was very straightforward, despite the best efforts of an English class from Ipiales who are brought to the border by their teacher to practice on native speakers. So we had the slightly bizarre experience of standing in line to get passports stamped while fielding a barrage of 'What is your favourite food?´, 'What is your favourite sport?´. As border interrogations go, it wasn´t the worst. (Incidentally, the only other hassle we got in Colombia was in a wee town where 2 schoolgirls got on our minibus and refused to get off until they had everyone´s autograph)

We went to Otavalo for the Saturday market - this is the biggest market in South America, where the age old tradition of villagers coming down from the hills to sell tourists DVDs is observed. Actually, it was pretty good, and although I´ve heard some people who are travelling being a bit sniffy because it´s not 'authentic´ enough for them, I loved it - miles and miles of souvenirs all for much cheapness. I did of course buy far too much rubbish, which is now winging its way across the Atlantic to the more unfortunate of you who have had birthdays recently. The most interesting parts of the market were where local people sell produce to each other, and I could have wandered round there for hours.

After Otavalo, we headed for Quito, which is making every effort to remind me of Glasgow weather - freezing and wet. There was a 2 week break between the first and second section of the trips, 1 week to allow people to go to the Galapagos and another week just because. I decided not to go to the Galapagos, because it´s really expensive - very difficult to get anything under $1500 even for a few days - and although I would look at a blue footed booby if it walked past me in the street, I´m not about to drain my bank account to see one. So I had 2 weeks to kill, and after having established that there weren´t really any tours or whatever happening from Quito at the right time, I headed off to the Black Sheep Inn in Chugchilan for a week.

I got there by going on a day trip from Quito to Laguna Quilotoa, which is a lake in a volcanic crater. The drive take you down the Avenue of Volcanoes and we got a really good view of Cotapaxi, and as we climbed up into the hills, a great view of the volcano near to Banos whose name I can´t remember which was smoking away. It was also the day of the dead, so as we passed through small towns and villages, we saw all the activity in the cemeteries.
Laguna Quilotoa´s a really spectacular green colour, and we walked down to the lake and went out on it on a wee boat to see the bubbling at the edge, just to verify that it was a volcano. Then we walked back up the crater to the top. That sounds easy, but it wasn´t - took about an hour on very steep paths, but I resisted the temptation to get a mule back up!

I then hired what was meant to be a pick up truck for the one hour journey to Chugchilan, but ended up being a bus, which gradually filled up with drunk teenagers who were out celebrating the holiday and on their way to the dance in Chugchilan. From the Black Sheep Inn, I did a few walks, including one which took about 5 hours back from the laguna and involved walking down one side of a very deep canyon and - inevitably - back up it. Also a horse ride up to the cloud forest which saw me advance to galloping mode, although I can´t say I was too confident about it, but I did manage to hang on. Although the guide did agree when I suggested to him that I was riding como un bolso de papas - like a sack of spuds. Also went on another walk with a Norwegian girl, where we took a wrong turn, and about 2 hours later, worked out that we might not be on the right track. We stopped a lorry to ask for advice, and luckily they saw the pained expressions on our faces and offered us a lift back. Although maybe the long walk back would have been preferrable to bumping up and down on a dirt track in the back of an ancient truck leaking diesel fumes from the motorbike it was carrying. But it was a good week, mainly due to the amazing vegetarian food that we got served every night - so good to not have to worry about what you´re eating. But also everyone that was staying there was really good company. Just in case my photos don´t work out, you can look it up at: http://www.blacksheepinn.com/. Oh, and there was llamas wandering about outside the bunkhouse, which did start off being the theme of this entry, but then I forgot about it.

So that´s me back in Quito, ready to start the next section of the overland trip on Monday, where, due to something that is too complicated to explain here, we have to go back to Otavalo for a night before heading to Misuahalli (spelling might be out) for a trip into the jungle for about 3 or 4 days. Which means, on the downside creepy crawlies, but on the upside - HEAT! can´t wait...

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